Motor Problem Again!

May 13, 2013
37
Scottsdale, AZ
OK, this is the third week in a row I've had problems with the motor.

First week, it threw the impeller bolt, causing the cap to fry. Replaced cap, rescrewed bolt. Good for a week.

Second week, repeat of above, though this time, I used Loctite on the screw.

Today, three weeks to the day, another problem. We had heavy, heavy rain today. When it ended, I went to backwash, and flipped on the booster pump. I heard a strain, but not quite like the noise when your cap is bad. I assumed the bolt came loose again. Took the motor apart, impeller bolt is nice and tight, a few stray leaf pieces, but nothing big. I turned the power on, and the shaft turned just fine.

Put the motor back in the pump, and though it will turn on and spin, it's like it's not powering up enough to get the RPM's to move the water. It's making a bit of a squeal, but not the rattle you get when the bearings are shot.

I bought this motor in March of 2011. Keep in mind, I live in Arizona, so the motor works pretty darn hard in the summer.

Also, I noticed the elbow was a little loose (it's plastic on this motor - heavy metal on the filter motor), and I'm sure some water got in there.

So, question. Is the motor shot and it's been a slow progression over the last few weeks, but I was in denial? lol Should I wait to see in the wiring dries out and anything changes (I doubt this will matter, but thought I'd throw it out there). Lastly, is it normal to replace motors this often?? In 10 years, this is my 3rd motor on the infloor. I've only replaced the filter pump once, and it's lesser HP, but, also works a lot less.
 
jaimejaime said:
Second week, repeat of above, though this time, I used Loctite on the screw

Just as a side note. Most Loctite style products (anerobic threadlocking adhesives) will cause chemical stress cracking* of plastic parts, so use it sparingly and make sure only on metal to metal. If used, I'd probably let it cure overnight before starting a pump to prevent it from being thrown out onto plastic parts. Loctite makes a specific threadlocker for plastics, Loctite 625 which is actually a super glue style adhesive (cyanoacrylate) which doesn't cause issues.

* Technically it's called Environmental Stress Cracking (ESC)
 
Bama Rambler said:
What you describe sounds like the centrifugal switch is sticking not allowing the motor to get up to full rpm.


Hmmm...that could be. I just checked the motor, and it will turn on (after a second delay like it's juicing), but it's not spinning fast enough to move the water.

What would cause the switch problem? Could heavy rain, or an odd size cap do it? Sorry if it's a dumb question. When I replaced my cap (a 50), they don't make them in the same length and girth like they used to, so the new ones don't fit right between the grooves.
 
gtemkin said:
jaimejaime said:
Second week, repeat of above, though this time, I used Loctite on the screw

Just as a side note. Most Loctite style products (anerobic threadlocking adhesives) will cause chemical stress cracking* of plastic parts, so use it sparingly and make sure only on metal to metal. If used, I'd probably let it cure overnight before starting a pump to prevent it from being thrown out onto plastic parts. Loctite makes a specific threadlocker for plastics, Loctite 625 which is actually a super glue style adhesive (cyanoacrylate) which doesn't cause issues.

* Technically it's called Environmental Stress Cracking (ESC)

Thank you!

I put the gel just on the threads of the bolt, then screwed it back in. Hopefully I didn't touch any part of the impeller or diffuser while doing so...
 

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JamesW said:
Are the capacitor specs the same?

The new one I bought is the same power (50), but isn't the same size in length and girth. The old one I had was shorter and fatter. They don't make them that size anymore, just longer and thinner. So, it doesn't fit the same in the grooves, or with the arm that locks it into place.
 
Just an update.

Pool guy came out today. Said the motor was making the classic sound of one that had taken a lot of water.

A few months ago, the mechanical seal went, and I didn't realize it for quite a while. I only say this because by the time I noticed the leak, water was pouring out of the motor, and the band clamp was caked with calcium deposits. I think the motor was slowly failing, hence why I kept frying the capacitor.

When we took the motor off, the inside had dried calcium deposits all over it, and the dry end shaft crank was totally rusted.

So, there you go. Got a new motor. Went for an AO Smith this time.
 
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