This pool is turning into one nightmare after another!

Sep 5, 2013
8
We purchased a house with an inground pool last summer. As per the terms everything had to be up and running before we closed. They had to replace the pump motor....Yeah me for negotiating that into the contract.

Well we had it professionally closed (as I am a complete newbie and know virtually nothing). We had it opened the same way and this year its just been a constant nightmare. First we had a leak in one of the returns, so we capped it and opened the extra one, that was not in use (by me saying "we" I mean my pool people).

NEXT my salt generator kept showing numbers like 300 off from the pool store (where I take my water to get tested every 2 weeks). I can do basic math so I just figured always assume a 300 lower amount. But then it went from 300 difference to 1000 difference. Because I am cheap and hate spending money on needless diy things I found your forum! Thanks to your forum, I learned how to clean a salt cell and reset the generator display, all that good stuff. It never fully solved the problem so I broke down and just bought a new salt cell (it seemed to be at the end of its lifecycle anyways from what I read), it is compatible with my generator as its a t-15 running 1.4 software.

AT the same time I decided (after much research on your forum) to order the replacement part from digikey, just in case.

Ok new salt cell in, everything fine, until a week later.. now its saying "no power" ... good thing I thought ahead and bought the part. Had the neighbor come over and solder it on and wallah everything fine for 24 hours. (slaps head)

NOW .. it is hot, I mean the box is warm. Could the part be bad, I did order 2 so I am having him come put a new one on, in case that is it. It overheats (I would assume by the temp, just touching the box) and then runs a PCB code (which DID NOT happen before the new part was put on). My big question is .. is there a wrong way to put it on, I mean could it have been put on upside down? Too much solder gunk? I have no idea, I am just ready to close it and breathe a bit before I start the nightmare next year.

Details of the pool: built in 2005 (which means its time for everything to start failing for me), aquarite salt generator running 1.4 software, new t-15 cell, 31,000 gallons of water. I do not have it on a timer (neither did the previous owners) it runs 24-7 for 4 months a year.
 
Welcome to TFP.

You could put too much solder on it and short out an adjacent land but that's highly unlikely. It isn't polarity sensitive so you can't install it backward.

Those things do get very hot in normal use.
 
It just seems so odd that it never gave that code before the new part was put on. It never shut down or the box never felt that warm. It is all one big mystery... maybe I need to find a nice concrete guy and just make a large patio.. lol
 
No no Stephanie! You can get this lined out and if worse comes to worse, you can always go with manual or auto-feed liquid Chlorine. It works like a champ and it isnt complicated.

You bought a house with a pool, and I bet you really do want to keep it. >>> :swim: :snorkle:

Don't despair and please don't give up just yet. You can get it going your way I'm certain.

Welcome to TFP! :wave:
 
I will keep it, I appreciate the optimism... trust me!! Its been a rough go, I swear at the old owners alot and yet admire them because they got out before everything fell apart.

I would just close it and deal with it next summer but I hate the view when washing dishes with that boring green cover over it. AND.. I am sure when we open it I dont want a repeat of this year.. I want a easy breezy year. Ya know interestingly enough when it is on "super chlorinate" it does not get as hot. Which is very odd. That is what I have been doing, super chlorinate once or twice a day to keep the chlorine in a safe zone. I guess we replace the part, and if it still does it.. I buy a new board although tips on where to find the right board running 1.4 software would be nice :D ..
 
What *I* would do in this situation is turn the SWG off and just use bleach (you know, regular ole' Chlorox) as my chlorine source until I had time to deal with the SWG. Then when I started it off I'd still use it as a back up until I knew it was working correctly. What you DON'T want to do is ignore the pool while scratching your head over the possibly malfunctioning SWG. Get some chlorine in there and circulating.
You are using a big girl's test kit, right?? I like my TF-100 (see link in siggy) Learn to test and then trust your own results over a pool store's test. Learn the nuances of your own pool. It really does get easier, I promise!
 
Actually the chlorine is fine, if anything it is a bit high, because I use super chlorinate twice a day for a 2-3 hours. Figured with the temps outside I should have my generator set at 40%, so it worked out on super chlorinate at 100% for a few hours a day. Alot of people have their pumps on a timer for half the day, I just keep my pump running constantly and just turn on and off the aquarite generator. And... Regular chlorox?? Wow never would have guessed thats a substitute for chlorine. I have had to do the manual chlorine input a couple times, with the leak (and the pump being off in the beginning) and when I was waiting for my replacement salt cell.

Honestly I would like to get t fixed before I close it this year. Hopefully my neighbor can get over here and change this part, see if thats the issue.. and if not I can order a new motherboard or whatever its called, swap that out and see... before I close and have a new round of headaches when opening next year.

As for testing, I am a handy chick .. I love DIY projects and have power tools, table saws and the like... HOWEVER, I hate little details that are important like 50 colored bottles and testing water. It's just a quirk, that seems more daunting to me than tearing out a bathroom and doing a remodel. Go figure. I have my test strips, and every 2 weeks I go to Leslies. I make special trips if things are wonkey and haywire. I just dont have the patience and knowing me, I would think I did something wrong and have to test everything 3 times... LOL... It would take a day!
 
As for testing, I am a handy chick .. I love DIY projects and have power tools, table saws and the like... HOWEVER, I hate little details that are important like 50 colored bottles and testing water. It's just a quirk, that seems more daunting to me than tearing out a bathroom and doing a remodel. Go figure. I have my test strips, and every 2 weeks I go to Leslies. I make special trips if things are wonkey and haywire. I just dont have the patience and knowing me, I would think I did something wrong and have to test everything 3 times... LOL... It would take a day!
Just about everything we teach about pool water management is self testing related. We have found pool stores and test strips to be far less than adequate for maintaining a pristine pool.

However, you primary question is about your SWG so perhaps folks here can help you get that tuned up.

How does your water look?
 

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Water is great .. clear and shiny .. So far, even with the SWG out... and I was thinking about that testing issue, and maybe next year when the money pit quits giving me headaches I will have time to learn how to properly test. Right now I am up to my eyeballs with digikey, salt generators, circuit boards and timers going off reminding me to turn off the generator so it doesn't overheat or whatever it is doing to give me the pcb code. (slaps head) .. I need a pool person on staff... mail order pool repair person... is there such a thing??
 
I need a pool person on staff... mail order pool repair person... is there such a thing??

You have not just one, but a whole forum full here. The advice given here is top-notch!

It has been suggested that you invest in a recommended test kit. Excellent advice. If you can follow a recipe in the kitchen, you can test your own water, it's that easy. Yes, I said invest, because that is what it is. An investment. With the proper trustable testing, you control your pool, and can tell very quickly when something is going wrong. It only takes a couple of minutes a day to test, morning and night.

Does your friend have electronic test equipment, like a digital volt/ammeter, and maybe an oscilloscope? If he does, he should be able to test the pcb, and see what it is doing as opposed to what it is supposed to be doing.

Please keep us posted on what's happening.
 
Get the test kit. I built my own inground pool and didn't order the kit in a timely fashion so I took my first sample to a nearby Leslies and they sent me out the door with $28 worth of dry acid (not the best choice for a pool with a SWCG) and $58 worth of calcium to increase the hardness in my vinyl lined, PVC plumbed pool. All I needed was $7 worth of muriatic acid from the nearest Lowes.

A "full" test is pretty simple. I check the pH, chlorine and CYA and that's pretty much it. Once the CYA is set, you don't need to check much else unless you start to have some issues. As for the salt test strips, I tried them and had no luck. I have a cartridge filter so I don't lose any salt through backflushing so it has stayed at 3350 ppm for weeks. If your salt cell isn't providing accurate values then you need to use the strips.

The testing is not difficult. You've seen them do it at the pool store. If you can make a mixed drink, you can handle the test!
 
After I get through this, I will start testing... I just need this SWG taken care of first. And I will ask my neighbor if he has a digital volt/ammeter, and maybe an oscilloscope and go from there. He has been busy so he has not been over yet. Hopefully soon!!
 
You are focusing on fixing the only OPTIONAL item in the pools system. A SWG is a nice toy to have but it's not required. As opposed to fixin fixing fixing, focus on testing your water and manually adding chlorine in place of the chlorine the SWG is not producing. And swimming. You can buy a seasons worth of liquid chlorine for what many of the SWG parts cost.

Just my two cents.
 
Honestly, I have been adding chlorine manually for the most part off and on all summer considering the problems... It almost seems easier also... but alas... I need low maintenance as I am gone off and on, something that can self maintain for a week if I need it to, besides trap clean out (but I did see a cool thing with an old milk crate on pintrest)

We replaced the part from digikey and no luck, it popped and overheated fast (within seconds). So a new board is what I am buying now. Good thing I will be home all weekend to test and add chlorine manually. :D .. And since I am up to my ears in pool debt already, when running to the store for chlorine (grumbles) I will get a better test kit so ya all stop heckling me. :p

Now my question is .. which is the right board. I see two options out there... Mine says Goldline Controls PN: 06602C-1 REV: C

When searching the number really does not come up but the two options seem to be GLX-PCB-RITE or GLX-PCB-MAIN .. looks more like the PCB-RITE but again I am a complete newbie.

ALSO.. do I need to worry about software problems with a T-15 salt cell??
 
Pool store? Order the kit off this site. Anything from a pool store will likely be twice as much and half as good at most. And use bleach to save some money. Chlorine is chlorine no matter what the pool store people tell you.
 
Really?? Bleach?? That scares me... is the ratio the same?? any bleach will work?

And ok on the pool kit you do have a point, if I will not order parts for the SWG through them, why order test kits.
 
Sodium hypochlorite is the same in bleach as it is in the pool store's Liquid Chlorine (or liquid shock), just at differing concentrations. Pool stores love to give misleading info about this.

My favorite is "Bleach will ruin your pump and filter". Hmmm Then why does the ingredient list look the same with different percentages?

If you want confirmation on this, search for posts by chem geek.
 
diyindux said:
And use bleach to save some money.

I don't think it's that simple, or always the case. If you do go with bleach, you don't want to use any scented, outdoor, or spashless kind, just plain unscented bleach.

To slowrey: Yes bleach and chlorine are the same thing, just different strengths. For a 31,000 gallon pool, it may be less about the cost, and more about how many jugs you need to buy, carry, haul, load, and use per day/week/month. Products labeled bleach will be up to 8.25% in strength. Hesitant to say all, but all products labeled pool chlorine will be either 10% or 12.5%.

Check out this thread and see what prices others are paying. Some are buying bleach from dollar stores, others from grocery stores, and others get the best prices watching sales of pool chlorine at ace hardware, pool stores, menards, among other places. It's a good topic to watch for someone posting a new sale they found.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/bleach-prices-2013-t58266-280.html

General rule is stay away from anything that doesn't show an active ingredient with percentage. That leaves you with 6% (which I hear is getting harder to find), 8.25% (concentrated bleach) and 10% & 12.5% pool shock/liquid chlorine.

Here are some things to teach you how to compare prices. One is a calculator made my a member here, and another is a post from that same member on how to do it if you don't have the calculator. Obviously the lower the price per oz the better.

http://poncatechsquad.com/dan/calc/chlorine/

http://www.troublefreepool.com/easi...lating-chlorine-cost-at-the-store-t65930.html

EDIT For someone in Ohio, if you have a Rural King near you, I have seen them mentioned multiple times in the bleach price thread for having good prices on pool chlorine. (If they still have it and it's not seasonal)
 

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