I have a 15k inground W/vinyl liner. Always kept in excellent condition, have had it 15 years. Always used daily non stabilized tabs at the recomendation of the installer. Three years ago, got lazy started using 3 inch stabilized (7 day) tabs. with intermiitant shocking as needed (after large groups of swimmers) 3 weeks ago, I noticed both chlorine readings very high. TC and FC at 10 PPM, and no sign of them coming down. Water looks and feels perfect. No chl smell. I'm guessing the water is over stabilized, and I have no choice but to drain most and refill. I'm posting here to see what others think before I do someting even dumber than not listening to some (the pool installer) who I really do trust. Othere reading; Total Hardness 250, PH 7.2 Total Alk 80 CA 40... HELP!
I think I overstabilized my pool. HELP?
- Thread starter Richmis
- Start date
Welcome to TFP !
What is your CYA level and what test kit are you using ? With using the stabilized tabs you are adding chlorine and stabilizer, so your CYA level is probably high.
If you don't already have one of the recommended test kits you can get one here TFtestkits.net. It's a must have for managing your pool water.
Test strips and pool store testing aren't up to the job of accurate testing.
What is your CYA level and what test kit are you using ? With using the stabilized tabs you are adding chlorine and stabilizer, so your CYA level is probably high.
If you don't already have one of the recommended test kits you can get one here TFtestkits.net. It's a must have for managing your pool water.
Test strips and pool store testing aren't up to the job of accurate testing.
Welcome to the forum 
We really need more information!
You may indeed have an overstabilized pool, but we may or may not recommend that you do water replacement. It depends on other things like; where are you located? do you winterize the pool? how much swim season do you have remaining? cost of water? & other variables.
Since your water is clear and FC is holding, we can discuss more options.
The best thing you can do for your pool is order one of the recommended test kits. The fav here is the TF100. Excellent customer service, uses Taylor Chems, best bang for the buck - you get more tests that you need. And, if you don't want to hand swirl each test, order the Speed Stir. Big help. Link in my sig.
We really need more information!
You may indeed have an overstabilized pool, but we may or may not recommend that you do water replacement. It depends on other things like; where are you located? do you winterize the pool? how much swim season do you have remaining? cost of water? & other variables.
Since your water is clear and FC is holding, we can discuss more options.
The best thing you can do for your pool is order one of the recommended test kits. The fav here is the TF100. Excellent customer service, uses Taylor Chems, best bang for the buck - you get more tests that you need. And, if you don't want to hand swirl each test, order the Speed Stir. Big help. Link in my sig.
Butterfly said:Welcome to the forum
We really need more information!
You may indeed have an overstabilized pool, but we may or may not recommend that you do water replacement. It depends on other things like; where are you located? do you winterize the pool? how much swim season do you have remaining? cost of water? & other variables.
Since your water is clear and FC is holding, we can discuss more options.
The best thing you can do for your pool is order one of the recommended test kits. The fav here is the TF100. Excellent customer service, uses Taylor Chems, best bang for the buck - you get more tests that you need. And, if you don't want to hand swirl each test, order the Speed Stir. Big help. Link in my sig.
I live in the Northeast. The pool has a heater. I am using AquaCheck strips and the CYA level shows at the 40-50 range(ideal) The pool people will be closing the pool on 9/21
Are the results you posted from the pool store or strips?
It really doesn't matter, neither can be trusted. I suspect that your CYA is a lot higher than that, but there's no telling without good test results and the only way to get those is with a good test kit.
Oh yeah, I'll just reiterate that the whole CYA stratifying in the pool is utter nonsense.
It really doesn't matter, neither can be trusted. I suspect that your CYA is a lot higher than that, but there's no telling without good test results and the only way to get those is with a good test kit.
Oh yeah, I'll just reiterate that the whole CYA stratifying in the pool is utter nonsense.
Stratification refers to the formation of layers within the water. I think what duraleigh and Bama are referring to is that CYA does not form layers within the water. In other words, the CYA level is uniform at all depth levels within the pool water.
Bo is correct but I think bama and I put unnecessary information in this thread.
I am a certified Senior (you have to be the object of at least 2 Silver Alerts to be certified) so I will use that for justification. Bama is a VERY young guy so he'll have to come up with something else.
I am a certified Senior (you have to be the object of at least 2 Silver Alerts to be certified) so I will use that for justification. Bama is a VERY young guy so he'll have to come up with something else.
I thought that's what was meant when I read this earlier. I don't know where someone couldBoDarville said:
have come up with that kooky theory, but you guys are right, absolute nonsense.
It looks like my issues has gotten lost in the stratification stuff.....BoDarville said:
We like to share knowledge, so sometimes we spew information that isn't quite needed to the problem at hand :blah: I am certainly guilty of it plenty of times!Richmis said:
So to answer your issue, overstabilization is very easy to test for. Do a CYA test with an accurate test, which uses liquid and a tube. Test strips and pool store tests are very inaccurate, especially with a CYA test. If it's below 50 then you are not overstabilized.
It would also be a decent idea to get more accurate tests for everything. The TF-100 is what I use, click the link in my signature and take a look at it. This will let you measure chlorine levels more accurately and give you a better idea whether you actually have any problems that need fixed right away. But, after noticing you will be closing in less than 3 weeks, I will agree with Bama, odds are it will be fine til then. Consider the TF-100 for next year, you can get it up and running right from the beginning. I can vouch that it makes start up very much easier!!
Donldson said:
OK so I will order the test kit. Just to be clear, there is no issue with closing and winterizing it with this condition?
As I said, the pool looks and smells perfect, only the chlorine is off the charts, and I have not added shock or placed tabs in over a week....
There's an old engineer saying, "If it's off the charts, you need better charts." In this case that's entirely true, test strips aren't up to the task. 10 FC is not a big deal if you have more than 20 CYA in your pool, which I imagine you do.
What you are describing doesn't sound like overstabilization (though until you test it with a good test it can't be ruled out), it sounds like the water temp is going down and there are no organics. If it's been cool and cloudy then chlorine usage will drop. It's also entirely possible your strips are just reading wrong and your FC is lower than that. Hard to say until you get a better kit.
Shouldn't be any problem with closing. Over the winter you should do some reading in the Pool School. There is a lot of great information in there that can help you open on the right foot for the 2014 season, getting things started right and running it the most efficiently next season. It's been a lifesaver for me, as well as a huge money saver and trouble preventer.
What you are describing doesn't sound like overstabilization (though until you test it with a good test it can't be ruled out), it sounds like the water temp is going down and there are no organics. If it's been cool and cloudy then chlorine usage will drop. It's also entirely possible your strips are just reading wrong and your FC is lower than that. Hard to say until you get a better kit.
Shouldn't be any problem with closing. Over the winter you should do some reading in the Pool School. There is a lot of great information in there that can help you open on the right foot for the 2014 season, getting things started right and running it the most efficiently next season. It's been a lifesaver for me, as well as a huge money saver and trouble preventer.
Sure seems like a lot of people come to the forum stating the date their pool will be closed .... INSTEAD of waiting and ensuring that the water temperature is below the recommended 60 degrees as described in Pool School.