It Works! Amazing Water! Now, some questions,...

Aug 12, 2013
28
After a LONG month of elevated CYA, algae, 3 occasions of draining/refilling then full blown BBB + OCLT, I'm just astounded by how awesome the pool looks. Even my wife commented that she hadn't seen the pool look the color it is now is in a long, long time. She still thinks I'm obsessed by my (almost) daily chem test with my new toy/test kit. I tell her I'm just still figuring it all out and, at least right now, it's just cool to "play" mad scientist.

Couple things though:
CYA: My CYA still seems high (90-100). I'm watching the CYA/CL chart and maintaining levels between target and shock, at the "target" end of the range, of course. Depending on the Houston sun/heat, I'm losing 3-7 ppm of CL a day. Should I eventually address the high CYA? Maybe I'm mis-reading the test. Whatever the actual CYA is, it seems to be working well with the CL as far as timely dissipation of the CL.

CH: Has been in the 150-160 range since the BBB process. As that's well below the recommended levels, should I go ahead and add some calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate? If so, which one is recommended?

TA and pH: These have both been on the high side (160, 8.0-8.2). Have been adding muriatic acid per the pool calculator. Any other thoughts on this?

One other thing: is it just because I've actually never seen it so clean or its been so long, but why does my pool just look better with the BB method than I can EVER recall? Is it truly "cleaner" than even in the best "dark side" situation? Just curious.

Thanks to all on the TFP site.
 
Assuming by +OCLT, you mean you ran it and passed, your FC loss is a little high. Maybe because you're holding it a little higher than the normal recommended target level.

Since you have a plaster pool, I would recommend raising it to at least the lower recommended level.

Just keep adjusting the pH whenever it needs it and the TA will find it's happy place. You should test your fill water so you'll know what you're adding to the pool.

I truly think the water is cleaner because you're not putting all the different things in it that the pool store always recommends. Also, it's a lot more balanced than ever before.
 
The 3 drains were probably 33%, 33%, 50%. I had been given (and was stupidly taking) really bad shock advice from Leslie's and others (3x, then 4x, then 8x!). Who knows how high my CYA truly was. Embarrassing to admit, especially on these boards.
 
Is it truly "cleaner" than even in the best "dark side" situation? Just curious.
Yeah, it's cleaner. Sparkles, doesn't it?

You have removed all the bad advice and bad chemistry from your pool and are now managing your pool properly. The tests will become much easier and quicker and many members say they can look out the window and know what their pool needs......that kills my refill business :oops: but, honestly, you will get to that same point.

You are understanding why you do the things you do. You are understanding what will happen when you put in your dosages.

All the "magic bullets" from the pool store and other "mystery" fixes have been taken out of the equation. You are a BBB'r.....feels pretty good, huh?
 
X 100 what duraleigh said. It is fantastic to see folks get hold of, and understand what is really going on in their pools. No more mysterious fixes and head scratching. I love it!

tfpAg87 said:
The 3 drains were probably 33%, 33%, 50%. I had been given (and was stupidly taking) really bad shock advice from Leslie's and others (3x, then 4x, then 8x!). Who knows how high my CYA truly was. Embarrassing to admit, especially on these boards.

No need to be embarassed at all. No one is born knowing this stuff and we all come to forums seeking knowledge. It's what these boards are for. Glad you are here and enjoying the process. :goodjob:
 
If you even have a problem, then you will certainly want to lower the CYA, but if it is working fine for now, leave it alone.

You do not necessarily need to raise the CH, if you keep your pH / TA on the higher side so the water is not too "corrosive" on the pebbleshean.

The TA will slowly come down as you keep the pH in range. Having it a little higher for now is not hurting due to the low CH.

Have you looked at the CSI index in the calculator? That is what I am referring to when I say you can have the CH low for now (it will rise just due to evaporation) but using the pH and higher TA to compensate. Play with the numbers and you will see what I mean.
 
Once you have a truly clean BBB pool, you can see when your FC is low and you are on the edge of algae issue. I know I can "see" my FC is too low and I need to bump it for a day or two. It won't even test and show any CC but the FC is low and it's getting "fuzzy".
 
Your CH question was answered in the second post. Yes, raise it.

Are you asking should your reduce your CYA? Of course you should but you seemed to indicate a reluctance because things were so good.

What other chemistry questions did you have?
 

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tfpAg87 said:
Couple things though:
CYA: My CYA still seems high (90-100). I'm watching the CYA/CL chart and maintaining levels between target and shock, at the "target" end of the range, of course. Depending on the Houston sun/heat, I'm losing 3-7 ppm of CL a day. Should I eventually address the high CYA? Maybe I'm mis-reading the test. Whatever the actual CYA is, it seems to be working well with the CL as far as timely dissipation of the CL.

At a CYA level of 90ish you're still losing at times 7FC per day?? That seems VERY high to me. When was the last time you did an OCLT?? What were the results?? What are you keeping your FC level's at?? At a CYA level of 90, anything below 7 FC you're running a risk of an outbreak. I'd suggest another attempt to lower the CYA to a more manageable level.

Can you post a full set of test results, and maybe a photo??
 
Thanks everyone. Sorry, I missed the CH comment in the 2nd post. I appreciate all the feedback. My CSI # seems okay for now. Will watch. Will also do an OCLT this weekend.

Thanks again.

tfp
 
If you pay close attention to how much you are adding (using the pool calculator), you can maintain FC with Cal Hypo to bring your CH up. Use pool calculator to determine how much you need to add each day, and at the bottom you can calculate how much CH each addition will add. Keep this in a spreadsheet, notepad, whatever, and stop when you calculate you've reached 250. Go back to bleach for a few days, then measure your CH to see where you ended up at.

I am not saying this is the solution, only that it is an option. If this seems complex, please stick to bleach and addition of a calcium product.
 
Thanks, Robbie. I actually considered using that method, especially as I've got some out of town travel upcoming. Kinda kill 2 birds with 1 stone, i.e. CL maintenance + CH improvement, if only for 5 days of use.
 
tfpAg87 said:
Thanks, Robbie. I actually considered using that method, especially as I've got some out of town travel upcoming. Kinda kill 2 birds with 1 stone, i.e. CL maintenance + CH improvement, if only for 5 days of use.

Yes, I believe someone suggested Cal-Hypo in the other thread too. :mrgreen: Just be cautious and use it carefully.
 
Going back to your title, I just walked by my pool about an hour ago. We have very little wind, so I was able to very clearly tell how pristine my water is. I just HAD to share! :) For the new guys, that black spot at the bottom is the main drain, 10' water depth.
 

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RobbieH said:
Going back to your title, I just walked by my pool about an hour ago. We have very little wind, so I was able to very clearly tell how pristine my water is. I just HAD to share! :) For the new guys, that black spot at the bottom is the main drain, 10' water depth.

Nice! Pool built in 1957. How many times has it been re-plastered?
 
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