new member, test results, how am I doing?

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C

ChewBiscuit

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LifeTime Supporter
Jul 25, 2013
82
Cedar Rapids, IA
Hi all!

I've been reading the Pool School and visiting the forums for quite some time before posting. I've finally made the switch to BBB and just got some test results back, and wondering how I'm doing so far.

FC - 3.97
CC - 0.11
pH - 7.5
CH - 206
TA - 75
CYA - 125
Copper 0
Iron 0
Total Cholorine??? 4.08 (didn't see this in pool school, not sure of it's significance)

I have a slight bit of algae apparently on the bottom. It appears blue and clear, but if I run a brush along the bottom I see a little greenish brown trail.

The pool store seemed concerned about the TA being low, and wanted to sell me Alk. increaser, but said everything else was fine. However, here: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/recommended_levels it appears my TA is fine, but CYA high and CH getting there, with the disclaimer that not all levels are ideal in all situations.

Thoughts? Should I concern myself with the TA? Is the CYA at a problem level?

Thanks for any and all advice!
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

Well, you are not doing very good. After all your reading, you still took your water to the pool store for testing :whip: ;)

You need to get one of the Recommended Test Kits and then SLAM your pool to get rid of the algae. [slam:mrtr2idp][/slam:mrtr2idp]

That TA is fine. The CH does not matter with a vinyl pool. And that CYA is certainly too high, but they are really bad at that test, so you should confirm yourself before replacing water to get the CYA in range before SLAMing.

BTW: TC = FC + CC
 
Since you've been reading here for a while you know what the first thing I'm going to say is. You really need a good test kit. I don't trust those pool store umbers at all.

Now. Don't worry about the TA. It's fine where it is.
The CYA is high and you need to lower it, BUT since that's a pool store number I'd test it myself before I did anything drastic.
 
The Chlorine / CYA issue is the first thing you need to address. Here is a chart that outlines the proper FC needed to maintain proper sanitation for a given CYA level: Chlorine CYA Chart. Once you understand this relationship, you are well on your way to a Trouble Free Pool.

Once you get the proper test kit, here are some more detailed test directions that apply to both the TF-100 and K-2006: Extended Test Kit Directions.
 
I'm torn about something... Couple more questions...

Unfortunately I live in Iowa and as such will be closing the pool in a couple months.

Do you think it's worth getting the test kit this late in the season? On the one hand, I want to properly address the algae and CYA issues before closing, on the other, I would hate to waste reagents and just have to replace most of them in spring (reason I went to the pool store).

The pool store uses a combination of a spin lab and what "looks like" the Taylor kit recommended here, but I'd have to ask them if that's the right one. They don't charge for tests and I can go there as often as needed... is it even feasible to rely on them for all of the tests necessary to do the SLAM to get rid of algae?

Or am I better off getting the test kit even if late in the season?

Thanks again for taking the time to give advice. :) Much appreciated.
 
You are better off getting the proper test kit now. The reagents that come with the kit are good for at least a couple of seasons.

While SLAMming your pool, you are likely to need refills on the DPD and FAS reagents, so best to order the XL option.

Can you go to the pool store every couple of hours for more testing that may or may no be accurate enough for the SLAM process?

Pool School has a section on SLAMming your pool. I strongly suggest you read that and the other sections on algae.
 
Get the kit now ... Dave offers a 18 month warranty on the TF-100 ... and I have one that is over 3 years old that seems to still working fine. Just store it in a cool dark closet.

DO NOT trust the pool store testing .... it is proven to be worth what you pay for it over and over again. Plus, they likely do not use the FAS-DPD test for chlorine and thus max out at 5ppm.
 

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