Pool contractors answer to Gray Mottling

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Derosa

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Aug 9, 2013
9
Gray Mottling=Plaster discoloration. New plaster 8 months ago. Always followed BBB method. Finally got contractor to take a look at why pool plaster has lots of discoloration. Never added Borate, didn't think it was necessary. Only fill pool with city water.
Test water 5x week, 1x month compare to pool store results.
Not sure if contractor is making excuses to get out of crappy install with plaster mix.
Current test results:
Free Chlorine=3.75
Total chlorine=3.75
CC=0
PH=7.8
Hardness=400
Alkalinity=my results 70, his testing 45
CYA=43
cooper=his testing 0.1
iron=his testing 0.2
borate=0
TDS=900

Here is the report, you have what the NPC calls the deadly duo, both low alkalinity and high calcium, this would certainly cause the look we are seeing and also cause the nodules to grow in the finish. I'd correct the chemistry as soon as possible to avoid further progression. Also there are no borates and you have a fair amount of iron in the pool. If you have any old reports like this one I'd like to see them.
 
I have not used anything other than Liq chlorine, acid, baking soda. Got another email from contractor (below) that didn't make sense so i took it to pool store along with some water. He looked at current water sample and noted no issues other than the liquid chlorine I’ve used has increased the TDS overtime. He even looked at past results. Then we discussed contractor email which he didn’t understand nor make sense. He said the current water chemistry has nothing to do with this type of discoloration, it’s from the calcium hydration during startup. Since he has had this issue come up before, he gave me a contract at NPC (national plaster council).
-use a Taylor kit which uses drops (reagents) doesn’t call for calibration.
-Used a total of 6 pucks since fill and this has not increased the hardness.
-cooper and iron at 0, no issue
-adding borates is not needed

Contractor email;
Taylor test kits all must be calibrated, also don't forget
about the cy correction with the alkalinity readings for
carbon alkalinity which gives you the actual reading. Your
chemistry needs major corrections including partial
draining. The calcium introduction is from the trichlor you
are using, which was not mentioned in your 3 ingredient
list. Also a test sample reduction must be performed when
testing pools with high calcium.
The current chemistry is damaging your finish and will
certainly cause further discoloration. Send over the reports
you mentioned.
If you need a referral for a qualified pool maintenance
professional let me know I have a few in your area.
 
I'll address the problems in the contractor's email in red.
Derosa said:
Contractor email;
Taylor test kits all must be calibrated, (Only kits that are read by a computer or electronic sensor must be calibrated, and then only when calibration is needed) also don't forget about the cy correction with the alkalinity readings for carbon alkalinity which gives you the actual reading. Incorrect as far as I know. Your chemistry needs major corrections including partial draining. The calcium introduction is from the trichlor you are using,(Trichlor does not contain calcium, in fact you cannot use or store calcium hypochlorite in anything that has ever held trichlor/dichlor products due to the violent chemical reaction that occurs when those two products are combined with water in the same container. Check your fill water for the calcium level. If that does not explain the high ch, and you have not added calcium to the pool, it may be leaching from the plaster. which was not mentioned in your 3 ingredient list. Also a test sample reduction must be performed when testing pools with high calcium. I have no idea what this means. The current chemistry is damaging your finish and will certainly cause further discoloration. Send over the reports you mentioned. If you need a referral for a qualified pool maintenance professional let me know I have a few in your area.
Click to expand...

I would get copies of the chemistry reports and photos of the plaster and keep them for my own records. I would also ask for a second opinion from a qualified pool professional of my own choosing, and ask for their opinion in writing, as well as their proposed solution to the problem. After I was armed with more information I would decide my next course of action.
 
This guy is the one who needs a pro to help with chemistry. I think what he means by sample reduction is splitting a sample that reads too high for whatever method he is referring too. He does not take into account the type of testing you are doing however. I assume that is for a photospectrometer of some sort. I also think he has CYA/TA correction backwards. Although I don't believe in that nonsense. Zea has the rest covered and quite well I might add. Do save this email, it proves beyond a doubt his ineptness with pool chemistry. He is doing no more than passing the buck and blaming you. And he has obviously no idea what he is talking about.
 
The PB is essentially telling you that he is not going to do anything about it unless you step it up a notch. I would suggest that you do one of the following: 1. ask for a meeting and present him with a report saying that the cause of the problem is poor install, demand that he take certain actions to correct or you will hire an attorney; or 2. hire an attorney and send him a letter demanding corrective action. With his response, I would probably go with option 2.

Good luck.
 
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