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Thread: Level to "attack" first

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    Level to "attack" first

    I'm a first time new-to-me pool owner (probably built around 1985, still has the copper pipes and all) and I absolutely LOVE this site.

    OK, so I'm 100% sure you've all answered this question a billion times (although I didn't find evidence of my exact situation - like mine's so different ) but...

    What order should I fix these levels (measured using taylor kit)? I have no way to aerate, other than getting in and splashing around.

    FC 7
    TC 7.4
    TA - 150
    ph 7.2
    CYA - 70
    CH - 575

    I also don't understand how my ph can be low but my TA be high - but it is. Can some of you chemist-types help me understand that. Also, draining for the CH isn't really possible - I live in a hard water area (although I've seen many of you say that CH doesn't really affect much if you keep your other levels in check). I'd like to do the overnight loss test/SLAM this weekend, but is there something more pressing I should be worried about first?
    33,000 freeform inground plaster with DE filter with attached "spa"

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Level to "attack" first

    Welcome to TFP!!!

    Just to confirm ... which test kit?
    What does the water look like? Why do you want to SLAM?

    TA is just a buffer for the pH ... the numbers are independent. High TA will make a tendency for the pH to rise, but does not necessitate a high pH. BTW, there is nothing wrong with leaving the pH at 7.2 and letting it drift up. As you keep the pH in range, the TA should slowly come down.

    Besides the CH, the CYA is a little high and you could use a 40% water change to be back in range. I would do this before SLAMing (if there is a reason to).

    What are you using for your daily chlorine?
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Re: Level to "attack" first

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    Welcome to TFP!!!
    Thanks! got a house with a pool at the beginning of july and feel like i've read this site every day since

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    Just to confirm ... which test kit?
    What does the water look like? Why do you want to SLAM?
    It's the FAS-DPD taylor kit they sell at leslie's - when we looked at the house, the pool was green, and it got cleaned up in time for an inspection, etc. but I had no idea what to really expect... so no time to mail-order (had I known i could get same day shipping from dave, it would've been a different story - soon)
    water is on-again, off-again - when we got it, it was clear, then we swam for a few hours and it was cloudy for a week... then, i might have (not-so-accidentally) added some ammonia-based algaecide to the pool and it was crystal clear and blue and magnificent.
    Long story short, the algae comes and goes but not nearly to the extent it was before we bought the place. It's in full sun for about 1/2 the day, so I'm not terribly concerned that it's mustard, but i want to SLAM it and try and get it that beautiful clear blue it was when I used the algaecide without using the algaecide, since it caused slight foaming and a little bit of an odd smell... Tuesday it was mostly cloudy in there, but i could see the drain cover in the deep end while standing out of the pool at the opposite end, yesterday it was not as cloudy, but less blue... i don't know about today, but I would assume it's either cloudy with a chance of algae or...


    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    What are you using for your daily chlorine?
    I'm trying to go fully liquid bleach, but I still use tabs as a crutch...
    33,000 freeform inground plaster with DE filter with attached "spa"

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Level to "attack" first

    OK, given that the water is not as clear as it should be, you should certainly SLAM it.

    You absolutely MUST stop using the pucks, they are the cause of your CYA being too high. I would replace water to get the CYA down around 50ppm at the most and then SLAM.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
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    Re: Level to "attack" first

    To answer why is the pH low, the tabs you are using cause pH to fall because they are acidic.

    You say that you have no way of aerating, but why not use the spa? I run the spa jets while sucking water from the pool and it works great for aerating the pool.

    Other than the CYA being high, your other values are fine to start the SLAM process. If you can't drain some water to reduce the CYA then you can start the SLAMming now. It will just take more chlorine to get through the process.
    16k gal plaster with raised spa, Jandy DEV60 filter, 2 HP 2-speed SHPF Jandy Stealth pump
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    Test Kits . Pool Math . Chlorine/CYA Chart . The SLAM Process

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    Re: Level to "attack" first

    Quote Originally Posted by ping
    You say that you have no way of aerating, but why not use the spa? I run the spa jets while sucking water from the pool and it works great for aerating the pool.
    This place is awesome! Mark this as seriously something I wouldn't have thought of.
    33,000 freeform inground plaster with DE filter with attached "spa"

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    Re: Level to "attack" first

    One other comment - if your pool has underwater lights, pull them out so water can freely circulate behind them (turn the breaker off before you do this). There have been several reports of algae taking up residence behind lights, and if your pool got swampy, that increases the chance of algae getting back there and hiding out.
    Outdoor 14,000 gallon IG plaster pool built in 2000 with spillover spa, 2 hp WhisperFlo pump with MagneTek motor, Sta-Rite cartridge pool filter with 300 ft2 filtration area and 0.33 gpm/ft2 filtration rate, Aquabot Rapids 4WD robotic pool cleaner, Raypak digital gas heater, and Intermatic mechanical timer located in the Dallas-Fort Worth metroplex

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    Re: Level to "attack" first

    Quote Originally Posted by danacc
    One other comment - if your pool has underwater lights, pull them out so water can freely circulate behind them (turn the breaker off before you do this). There have been several reports of algae taking up residence behind lights, and if your pool got swampy, that increases the chance of algae getting back there and hiding out.
    Easier said than done, but we'll try. Couldn't get to the deep end light from outside the pool, so we'll have to get in. No telling what we'll find but i have a sneaking suspicion it won't be good. Lights don't work and unsure where the breaker is. We've found a GFCI inside the house that won't reset, but don't know if it goes to the lights...

    One question I do have is this: I have a dolphin "deluxe" robotic cleaner... can I leave it in the pool while I SLAM? I ask because as I was pulling it out, the cable felt slimy, which tells me there might be algae in/on it...
    33,000 freeform inground plaster with DE filter with attached "spa"

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Level to "attack" first

    Then I would leave it in and may as well run it to capture the dead stuff.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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