Hey all- Great site, I have learned so much and have been putting it in practice. But I need some advice-
Using a Taylor K2006 test kit I managed to get my pool in pretty good balance. It was way out of whack even though the water didn't seem cloudy. I would just turn on the SWG and forget about the pool except to clean out the filters/return baskets.
I came here after trying to figure out the best way to get rid of black algae spots. Learned about BBB and got religion on pool chemistry. Now the water sparkles...
Here are the results of the test I took yesterday-
Water temp 90 F
FC 11.5 (no CC, at least the sample did not turn pink again when doing the CC test)
ph 7.6
TA 75
Ch 450 !!!!<- not sure I am doing this test correctly.. the sample never turns blue again.. more like purple with lots of pink particles floating in it.
CYA 75 <- When black dot completely disappeared..
salt level 3660
One thing I forgot and will add to my pool info is the age of the pool.. it's 7 years old
So it looks fine per the BBB method for a salt pool but my CH seems high. Also, the ph of 7.6 is after adding 2 pints of acid the night before in an attempt to bring the PH down to 7.0 (per the Pool Pal app on my andriod phone) (TA was 100 so I wanted to drop it) But I have been fighting the PH rising on me and it keeps rising to 7.8 and higher and I seem to have to continually add a pint or so of acid. Is this normal? Is this the water fall naturally aerating and causing PH to climb all the time? I finally dialed in the CYA levels.. up until this test they were low. (Started at not measurable when I first started testing)
I have the SWG running full blast and I run the pump from 7Am to 11Am full power and then 1/2 speed until 3PM and then full for 1 more hour. So I guess I can dial it down... Is there any way of knowing how much to cut back or is it trail and error?
I wasn't too worried about the FC level as I was trying to kill off the black algae spots (which are mostly gone now) But now that they are under control, I want to bring the SWG down from full power.
Thoughts on the CH levels?- Water is pricey in my area.. If I drain the pool by half and refill to cut the CH down it will probably cost me $100 on my water bill.. not to mention the new salt I would need to add. I did test my tap water for CH and none was detected... By how much should I empty my pool and refill to knock it down? I do notice calcium deposits forming on the salt cell. If cutting the CH in the pool will stop that then I will spend the money to do it over buying new cells more often (this one is a year old now)
Using a Taylor K2006 test kit I managed to get my pool in pretty good balance. It was way out of whack even though the water didn't seem cloudy. I would just turn on the SWG and forget about the pool except to clean out the filters/return baskets.
I came here after trying to figure out the best way to get rid of black algae spots. Learned about BBB and got religion on pool chemistry. Now the water sparkles... Here are the results of the test I took yesterday-
Water temp 90 F
FC 11.5 (no CC, at least the sample did not turn pink again when doing the CC test)
ph 7.6
TA 75
Ch 450 !!!!<- not sure I am doing this test correctly.. the sample never turns blue again.. more like purple with lots of pink particles floating in it.
CYA 75 <- When black dot completely disappeared..
salt level 3660
One thing I forgot and will add to my pool info is the age of the pool.. it's 7 years old
So it looks fine per the BBB method for a salt pool but my CH seems high. Also, the ph of 7.6 is after adding 2 pints of acid the night before in an attempt to bring the PH down to 7.0 (per the Pool Pal app on my andriod phone) (TA was 100 so I wanted to drop it) But I have been fighting the PH rising on me and it keeps rising to 7.8 and higher and I seem to have to continually add a pint or so of acid. Is this normal? Is this the water fall naturally aerating and causing PH to climb all the time? I finally dialed in the CYA levels.. up until this test they were low. (Started at not measurable when I first started testing)
I have the SWG running full blast and I run the pump from 7Am to 11Am full power and then 1/2 speed until 3PM and then full for 1 more hour. So I guess I can dial it down... Is there any way of knowing how much to cut back or is it trail and error?
I wasn't too worried about the FC level as I was trying to kill off the black algae spots (which are mostly gone now) But now that they are under control, I want to bring the SWG down from full power.
Thoughts on the CH levels?- Water is pricey in my area.. If I drain the pool by half and refill to cut the CH down it will probably cost me $100 on my water bill.. not to mention the new salt I would need to add. I did test my tap water for CH and none was detected... By how much should I empty my pool and refill to knock it down? I do notice calcium deposits forming on the salt cell. If cutting the CH in the pool will stop that then I will spend the money to do it over buying new cells more often (this one is a year old now)
