New Member (with old problems)

[ATLjp]

We have used a "pool guy" every year until this one and he did a great job. Everyone (and by that I mean my spousal unit) said that this was a waste of money and I should do this myself (easy for him to say). After new liner installed this summer I thought I would give it a try. It's not been easy but there's not been a great deal of $$ saved, not to mention trips to pool store, etc. I came across your site and thought I would try switching to the BBB system (currently using Bioguard products) and test myself. I've studied the pool chemistry info and my Taylor 2006 kit arrived last week and I've been taking samples, etc. One problem here is that I am one of the very few women that are colorblind so the whole green to red changing colors could be giving me odd answers. Here are my test results:

PH - 7.4
TA - 140
FC - .15
CC - .30
CYA - - this is clear - -

 

[Butterfly]

Welcome to the forum

What are you using for chlorinating the pool?

Is this a new fill? If it is a new fill, it will have zero CYA.

If not, I suggest that you redo the CYA test to confirm a zero CYA. Have you seen the extended test kit instructions? They also have pics showing the test: extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html

If you do confirm zero CYA, add about 30ppm CYA, ASAP via sock method.
Don't test for the CYA again for about a week after the add. Assume it is in the water and follow the CYA/FC chart for maintenance levels.

Also, you need to get some chlorine in there. Add about a gallon of 8.25% bleach daily for now.

 

[Butterfly]

oops, about the FC & CC test results......

Use the 10ml sample and multiply the number of drops by .5 (or divide by 2).

Example: 10 drops = 5ppm

It would be good if you also retest and repost those test results.

Did you test the CH?

 

[ATLjp]

Pool looks great....here are my test results (mine, the online aquachem, and the pool store)
Mine: pH - 7.4, TA - 130, FC - 1.0, CC - 1.5, still no CYA
Online: pH - 7.8, Alk - 150, FC - 0, CYA - 20
Pool store: pH - 7.2, TA - 120, Total chlorine 4, CYA - 60

I'm now adding CYA now...keeping the chlorinator on high, and added a gallon of bleach. I'm am really confused by the differing readings....

 

[Smykowski]

Mine: pH - 7.4, TA - 130, FC - 1.0, CC - 1.5, still no CYA

I see nothing to be confused by, other than put some more chlorine in there and start SLAMing

You have a Taylor 2006, why bother going to the pool store anymore?

 

[ATLjp]

Should I wait to get a CYA reading before I begin the SLAM process - -

I was reading today that I might have been getting a low (mine has been zero) CYA reading because the water was not at room temp. ?

Do you know of any good test methods/kits for the color blind ?

 

[DorsalSpine]

Should I wait to get a CYA reading before I begin the SLAM process - -

I was reading today that I might have been getting a low (mine has been zero) CYA reading because the water was not at room temp. ?

Do you know of any good test methods/kits for the color blind ?

SLAM depends on having a test kit that will measure high levels of FC. The FC level is dependent on your CYA level. Trying to SLAM without both is probably a waste of time.

Can you distinguish the black dot in the CYA test?

Can you distinguish the color change from pink/red water to clear water? This would be your FC test.

Is your other half color blind as well? If not, then do the tests together. With a little practice you are talking about 10-15 minutes to do the tests. Less once you get familiar enough with the pool to skip some of them. My TA/PH don't move much so they only get tested every other day or so. The FC is daily and CYA monthly if I'm not adding much water.

All the tests are necessary, but the above are essential. I don't know of any specific tests for the color blind.

 

[techguy]

If you have added (are adding) CYA to get a 30CYA, assume you have 30. I don't remember what your target was so I used 30 as an assumption. So, use whatever target you were aiming for when making entries into the PooCalc.