Time for the electric on my wife's pool to be done and the electrician hasn't shown up so I am doing it myself . I ran conduit from my barn , 50' away , to a treated 3x3 pedestal for the 60 amp panel and boxes . I have a gfci plug for the ionizer and convience plug . I have 2 led lights going into a metal transformer box, which I would like to put a switch on it . My BIL says every thing needs to be on gfci even the low voltage led lights .The pedestal is about 10' from the pool and 2' from the pump and filter .
Pool electric's
- Thread starter Tomsaw
- Start date
It is best to use GFCI for everything, I would suggest GFCI breakers at the upstream box instead of just GFCI outlets, that way the wire in the conduit running near the pool is also protected from ground faults.
Ike
p.s. we generally do not suggest using ionizer systems
Ike
p.s. we generally do not suggest using ionizer systems
I agree, GFCI is recommended for every circuit around the pool. It is required by code in some areas, though many only require CFCI for outlets and high voltage lights. Even if not required, it is a good idea.
A GFCI breaker on the main panel won't work correctly when feeding a sub-panel. A GFCI looks to see that the load is balanced between the two sides, which will hardly ever be true with a sub-panel, so it will trip constantly.
A GFCI breaker on the main panel won't work correctly when feeding a sub-panel. A GFCI looks to see that the load is balanced between the two sides, which will hardly ever be true with a sub-panel, so it will trip constantly.
Jason is correct, I should probably have worded that GFCI breakers at the sub-panel, not just GFCI outlets connected to standard breakers.
Ike
Ike
Should I put a gfci breaker on the low voltage transformer line also ? Pump , 220 gfci breaker ? I'm having a hard time finding a 1/2" fitting to fit the SO cord going from the receptacle to the pump. Can I use a 1/2" threaded plastic termination ,push the cord into it and silicone it in place . Isaac , why don't you recommend ionizers ? The salesman / installer said they were the best thing , actually guaranteeing it , but with all of the trouble I have from day 2 out of him I don't believe a word he says .
Ionizers add metals to the water. Metal levels high enough to be useful are also high enough to cause stains, which are unsightly and sometimes difficult to remove. Since chlorine alone does a wonderful job, there really isn't much point in risking staining.
I could not tell from you comments but your pool pump should be on a dedicated circuit with the convenience outlets being in another circuit with an in- use cover. The pump outlet can be within 5 feet but the convenience outlet should be 6-20 feet from the pool. I don't know if there a huge difference between a circuit with GFCI outlets vs breaker as long as the first outlet in series is a GFCI installed correctly.
Forgive if I read this wrong or got the code confused. There is a special section in the electrical code for pools. I am not a qualified electrician.
Forgive if I read this wrong or got the code confused. There is a special section in the electrical code for pools. I am not a qualified electrician.
Well I changed out the 20 amp 220 breaker for a gfci breaker . I had to move the pump outlet to the back of the electric pedestal to be able to get close enough to use a 3' cord . I had to go with a smaller diameter cord for the pump so I could use the correct connector for the motor . Almost done !
Be sure the cord set you used on the pump is rated for the load you are carrying. I would hate for you to burn up the cord... or worse.
What are the numbers on the cord set? Someone here will be able to translate them for you. What is the data on the plate on the motor?
What are the numbers on the cord set? Someone here will be able to translate them for you. What is the data on the plate on the motor?
The pump is 208/230 v 8 amps. I'm using 12 ga. , SJ00W cord . I have hooked the 220 dbl. pole gfi breaker up , but when I flip the breaker on the gfi trips . I disconnected each load line individually to check to see if the load lines were the problem,still trips . I took the plug apart and it looks good . I took the bonding wire off of the motor and the breaker did not trip . What gives ?
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Where is the bonding wire connecting on the motor?
Is the bond wire connected to the ground bar of the breaker box?
Is the breaker box have a separate bus for the neutral and ground?
Is the bond wire connected to the ground bar of the breaker box?
Is the breaker box have a separate bus for the neutral and ground?
The bonding wire is under a screw at the bottom of the end plate of the motor . The neutral from the cord is under a screw at the top of the same end plate . The panel is a CH 125 amp 12/24 panel , BR breakers .Separate grounds and neutrals . ....... I just looked in the panel and there is a "bonding strap " tying the ground and neutral sides together . Does this need to be removed ?
If the ionizer is "guaranteed", then tell him you want your money back and stick with chlorine. Spend the money on a SWG or bleach automation if you want to lessen the work load.
I am not an electrician but I have been looking that upgrading my panel.
I am not sure about the grounding and the bonding strap but IIRC, it depends on if your panel is mounted to your home (where the main panel is installed) or if it is attached to a separate structure (pump house, power pole). If it is detached from the main house, I think it needs a separate ground and this changes if you need a strap or not. It can be different in each region. I would use the NEC codes to determine the correct method for your installation.
I am not sure about the grounding and the bonding strap but IIRC, it depends on if your panel is mounted to your home (where the main panel is installed) or if it is attached to a separate structure (pump house, power pole). If it is detached from the main house, I think it needs a separate ground and this changes if you need a strap or not. It can be different in each region. I would use the NEC codes to determine the correct method for your installation.
You do not need to bond the panel.
You need to bond the equipment associated with the pool. You need to bond the pool structure, the water, the deck, metal parts associated with the pool, diving boards, slides, ladders, lights, cover motors, booster pumps, pumps, etc.
Read Mike Holt's explanation of the NEC regarding pools (http://www.erbinspections.com/Forms%20& ... ations.pdf) or have an electrician do the work.
Bonding mistakes are unpleasant to discover and difficult to fix.
You need to bond the equipment associated with the pool. You need to bond the pool structure, the water, the deck, metal parts associated with the pool, diving boards, slides, ladders, lights, cover motors, booster pumps, pumps, etc.
Read Mike Holt's explanation of the NEC regarding pools (http://www.erbinspections.com/Forms%20& ... ations.pdf) or have an electrician do the work.
Bonding mistakes are unpleasant to discover and difficult to fix.
your sub pane requires a 4 wire feed (hot, hot, neutral, ground) with the neutral isolated from the ground and floating. You also need an 8' ground rod. The bonding of the pool is not required to be connected to the grounding system of the electrical system. Do not substitute the ground rod for a ground wire back to the main
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