I have a 25k gallon clover shaped pool. Currently there are two incandescent lights that I want to put LED lights in. I read somewhere that the Hayward colorlogic 4G lights are bright enough to light a pool with one light. Is this true? Or should I buy 2 lights. If I can get away with 1 how do I cover the unused niche?
LED light retrofit
- Thread starter diabolic812
- Start date
I replaced my bulb with a led color bulb. Easy to do and you do not have to pull more wiring like may be required with the colorlogic.
I think the bulbs are called Colorsplash.
Note the red colors do not travel as well in water, I wish I had 2 lights.
I think the bulbs are called Colorsplash.
Note the red colors do not travel as well in water, I wish I had 2 lights.
I was trying to stay away from colorsplash I had a bad experience with them... long story. So I want to go with colorlogic. Hopefully I can get away with one to save some $$. All pool lights are WAY over priced. If anyone knows of a niche light covers for unused light niche I'd appreciate it.
Thanks
Thanks
Why not leave the old light in and disconnect it? I think you will want two LED lights for that large of a pool.
I'm going to pile on and say you will need two LED lights for your pool. With that volume one third of the pool will be dark and the light wont be even
I have a jandy water colors LED that has gone dim. When first installed, it was bright enough to light the whole pool. Now you can barely see the deep end at night.
The light is only 2 1/2 years old.
Any suggestions?
The light is only 2 1/2 years old.
Any suggestions?
Two things that will shorten the life of an LED:
1] Overcurrent. Meaning the light control unit in the light itself (called a driver) is set to allow too much current to the LEDs. This can be, for example, driving 1 watt LEDs with 360 mA current when they are designed to handle only 350 mA. This leads to the second life shortening item. Yes, you can overdrive LEDs by quite a margin, there are many ways to do this. However, you will also need to add active cooling.
2] Cooling. You would think that being in a submerged light unit, they would be cooled by heat conduction into the pool water. Not necessarily true. There has to be a complete thermal path between the LED and the pool water for this to be effective. Chances are that there is not, due to electrical isolation needs for the pool environment. So the LED light manufacturer has to make certain compromises, and heat conduction would be one of them.
Normally, modern state of the art technology gives us LEDs that still need a good way to shed excess heat from the LED itself. If the die (the part that actually emits the light) can't shed the heat, it's life is shortened exponentially. So an LED that is rated for 50,000 hours will destroy itself in as little as 500 hours if the internal temperature goes even 15% over the design specs.
1] Overcurrent. Meaning the light control unit in the light itself (called a driver) is set to allow too much current to the LEDs. This can be, for example, driving 1 watt LEDs with 360 mA current when they are designed to handle only 350 mA. This leads to the second life shortening item. Yes, you can overdrive LEDs by quite a margin, there are many ways to do this. However, you will also need to add active cooling.
2] Cooling. You would think that being in a submerged light unit, they would be cooled by heat conduction into the pool water. Not necessarily true. There has to be a complete thermal path between the LED and the pool water for this to be effective. Chances are that there is not, due to electrical isolation needs for the pool environment. So the LED light manufacturer has to make certain compromises, and heat conduction would be one of them.
Normally, modern state of the art technology gives us LEDs that still need a good way to shed excess heat from the LED itself. If the die (the part that actually emits the light) can't shed the heat, it's life is shortened exponentially. So an LED that is rated for 50,000 hours will destroy itself in as little as 500 hours if the internal temperature goes even 15% over the design specs.
I now know how Penny feels.
It sounds like your first item would be a manufactures defect
Second item, I'm in the Cleveland area-the ice just melted here...my water temp has never been higher than 90 even at hottest point last year.
It sounds like your first item would be a manufactures defect
Second item, I'm in the Cleveland area-the ice just melted here...my water temp has never been higher than 90 even at hottest point last year.
After making a mistake and ordering j&j colorsplash spa lights instead of POOL lights. And not being able to return them:-( $2000 later I went with hayward universal colorlogic lights. So far I'm happy with them !
Thanks again for the input.
Thanks again for the input.