Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 24

Thread: Black Lagoon

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Black Lagoon

    First post here. I have gone through and read quite a bit and I think I am probably more confused than ever. I am having a horrible time trying to clear my pool. It is currently so green that it is almost blue. Or blue-black. Kind of a green-black right now. Generally horrible, so you get the picture. I have tried quite a few things so far. Leslies sold me on the Green-to-Clean **** that didnt do anything. I have poured almost 10 pounds of shock into the pool and it hasnt done anything. Granted, 7 pounds of it was the Home Depot ****, but I have only very recently found out it was ****.

    My current readings before I dumped all this in the pool;

    FC: 0
    pH: 8.4
    CYA: 26
    TA: 70

    I have read a lot about shocking it with plain old bleach and I am very interested in doing this method. I found the pool calculator and it is telling me I need 108oz. Im assuming this will lead to a clear pool? How long will that take? Can anyone offer me any insight? Im really about to fill it with dirt and call it a day. Please help me change my mind!

    I also know this has to be one of the most popular topics and I am sorry for adding to the list, but I am finding myself easily lost as this is my first season.

    Thanks!
    17k IG vinyl
    1 HP w/sand filter
    built 1996

  2. Back To Top    #2
    linen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    8,649

    Re: Black Lagoon

    Welcome to tfp, MattF

    How did you get those test results?

    Probably the best thing you can do is get on of the recommended test kits since the methods taught here to clear a pool rely on accurate testing. See this pool school article: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...kit_comparison

    Your ph appears to be really high. I would lower that before doing anything else. We recommend using Muriatic Acid to lower ph. Use poolcalculator.com to calculate dosing. I would shoot for 7.4 as a goal in the calculator. After dosing let it mix in the pool for an hour and then test and redose as necessary until you are measuring down in the 7.4-7.8 range.

    Quote Originally Posted by MattF
    I have read a lot about shocking it with plain old bleach and I am very interested in doing this method.
    Make sure you read up on the SLAM process (formerly known as the shock process). It is a process and not a one time application of bleach/liquid chlorine. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...king_your_pool To start the SLAM process you will need to know fairly accurately your cya level.

    Quote Originally Posted by MattF
    I found the pool calculator and it is telling me I need 108oz.
    If the above cya level is right (again we need to know how you tested this to judge) then according to the poolcalculator.com your FC SLAM level is 12 ppm. Poolcalculator.com also tells us to go from 0 to 12 ppm FC in your 17000 gallon pool will require 208 ounces of 8.25% bleach.

    Quote Originally Posted by MattF
    Im assuming this will lead to a clear pool?
    Again the SLAM process is a process where you keep your FC level at your FC SLAM level (12 ppm for 26 ppm cya) until you pass all three criteria in the SLAM process pool school article (also in my sig).

    Quote Originally Posted by MattF
    How long will that take?
    Each pool is different, it sounds like yours is pretty bad so likely at least a number of days.

    Your ph appears to be really high. I would lower that before doing anything else.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Re: Black Lagoon

    The test results are from Leslies. The pH isnt that high any more. I just tested it and its 7.8
    17k IG vinyl
    1 HP w/sand filter
    built 1996

  4. Back To Top    #4
    linen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    8,649

    Re: Black Lagoon

    Quote Originally Posted by MattF
    The pH isnt that high any more. I just tested it and its 7.8
    Great

    Quote Originally Posted by MattF
    The test results are from Leslies.
    Not Great. I would not assume your cya is 26, pool stores often get cya wrong. Have you been using chlorine sources such as trichlor pucks or dichlor shock? If yes, it is likely your cya is higher than that.

    Quote Originally Posted by MattF
    I have poured almost 10 pounds of shock into the pool and it hasnt done anything.
    What was the "shock" you were using?

    Quote Originally Posted by MattF
    Granted, 7 pounds of it was the Home Depot ****, but I have only very recently found out it was ****.
    I am curious in the story behind your statement.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: Black Lagoon

    I had been using the 3" tabs from Leslies all season with no issues. Thursday I took in a water sample and they sold me on the Green-to-Clean stuff that didnt work and also sold me two pounds of Power Powder Plus shock. I used that plus some leftover Home Depot shock.

    side note, I am about to order the TF100. Is it really necessary to get the stirrer?
    17k IG vinyl
    1 HP w/sand filter
    built 1996

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Re: Black Lagoon

    I guess I should also note that I did not have any issues until we literally had 10" of rain fall in about 3 weeks here. Totally destroyed my FC levels and phosphates went crazy.
    17k IG vinyl
    1 HP w/sand filter
    built 1996

  7. Back To Top    #7
    linen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    8,649

    Re: Black Lagoon

    Quote Originally Posted by MattF
    I had been using the 3" tabs from Leslies all season with no issues.
    I can almost guarantee you that your cya is much higher than 26 ppm. See this pool school article: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-..._chlorine_pool

    Quote Originally Posted by MattF
    side note, I am about to order the TF100.
    Great choice, it has the tools you need to help you clear your pool.

    Quote Originally Posted by MattF
    Is it really necessary to get the stirrer?
    Not necessary, but so nice to have. Mine is not functioning right now (don't ask me how it ended up in my pool overnight) and I really miss it. Fortunately, I have had no need to do the SLAM process, but if I did, it would be painful without it.

    Quote Originally Posted by MattF
    I guess I should also note that I did not have any issues until we literally had 10" of rain fall in about 3 weeks here. Totally destroyed my FC levels and phosphates went crazy.
    When your primed to have an algae outbreak, just a short time at low chlorine levels is enough to turn a pool green quickly. By the way, you can ignore phosphates. If your pool is properly chlorinated (which you will learn using the methods taught on here) phosphate levels do not matter.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  8. Back To Top    #8

    Re: Black Lagoon

    Ordered the TF100 kit and stirrer

    So, should I purchase the chlorine now to prepare? and how did you come up with the shock level ppm that I need to reach? I guess the kit should be here Tuesday, hopefully. Its so green I am worried its going to damage the filter or the liner. Should I shut off the pump or do anything at all?
    17k IG vinyl
    1 HP w/sand filter
    built 1996

  9. Back To Top    #9
    linen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    8,649

    Re: Black Lagoon

    Quote Originally Posted by MattF
    So, should I purchase the chlorine now to prepare?
    Wouldn't hurt, shop around a little sometimes you can find the 8.25% bleach for cheaper sometimes the 12.5% liquid chlorine is cheaper (per ounce of Sodium Hypochlorite...the 8.25% and 12.5% part).

    I got the shock level off of poolcalculator.com. The value is tied to your cya level, so until you have your kit, you are not going to know what your FC level will be.

    Not much you can do now, it shouldn't do any damage to your equipment. You could shut things down until your kit arrives, or if you want your could add a gallon of 8.25% bleach every day until the kit comes letting the pump circulate it for an hour or so...probably won't help much though.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  10. Back To Top    #10

    Re: Black Lagoon

    Thanks for all your help. Hopefully my kit gets here quickly and I can start this process. Going to just turn everything off and let it sit for now. Just wasting energy.

    I welcome more opinions from those who are actually asleep right now
    17k IG vinyl
    1 HP w/sand filter
    built 1996

  11. Back To Top    #11
    Charlie_R's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Mexico, MO
    Posts
    2,156

    Re: Black Lagoon

    Glad to see that you have ordered a great kit. That is one investment you will never regret.

    All the above advice is spot on. Most everyone that has posted have pics of their pool water somewhere on the forum, and if you search for posts by Richard320, he often adds a list of success stories to his posts. You might take a look at some of those, to see where we will lead you. Here's one of mine:



    Yes, it's an Intex.

    From where you are at now, in a relatively short time if you follow the SLAM process to a T, yours will look that clear and clean.

    Since it didn't get that way overnight, it may take a couple of weeks to get it close to that, but you WILL see improvements in the first few days.

    Reading Pool School can't be stressed enough. There is so much information in there that it may seem a little overwhelming at first, but after rereading it a few times, and practicing with your new kit when it arrives, what you read there will start to make sense.
    15'x48" 4500 gallon Intex pool, buried 1.5 ft. Pac-Fab Dynamo 3/4 hp pump. Hayward S180T sand filter, bought used. Taylor K-2006 test kit. Rocket mass heater based wood fired pool heater.

  12. Back To Top    #12

    Re: Black Lagoon

    Woke up this morning and the pool has shifted to a mint green color. Still cant see but maybe 8" down but thats better than it has been. I also tested it with a dip and read strip (I know, but the TF100 isnt here yet!) and the pH is down considerably. reading 7.2. It wasnt showing much chlorine at all. Not quite zero but those things are hard to read. I know it smells like chlorine out back so thats a plus.
    17k IG vinyl
    1 HP w/sand filter
    built 1996

  13. Back To Top    #13
    Casey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    SW PA
    Posts
    10,157

    Re: Black Lagoon

    That chlorine smell is your CC's burning off. Once your pool clears, you should never smell that.
    I'd bet you my bikini you'll never get TFP water from a pool store!

    24' Sharkline Venture De Filter

  14. Back To Top    #14

    Re: Black Lagoon

    Test kit arrived today! The water stayed a constant cloudy aquamarine but its starting to tinge green again. Need more chlorine! Ill test in the afternoon and get back on here and ask what to do next. Meet me here at say 2pm EST?
    17k IG vinyl
    1 HP w/sand filter
    built 1996

  15. Back To Top    #15
    Charlie_R's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Mexico, MO
    Posts
    2,156

    Re: Black Lagoon

    Depending on what your testing shows, you probably need to prepare yourself for a drain/refill cycle, of at least 1/3. I agree with linen, that your CYA is probably higher than 100 at this point. Once you know how high it really is, we can advise you further.

    Have you been reading pool school? In there you will find the FC/CYA chart, which will give you a better idea of how much bleach/LC you will need to maintain a SLAM level to clear your pool.

    It may take a couple of weeks, but if you follow the SLAM process as outlined, you may still have a few weeks of swim time before you close your pool for the winter.
    15'x48" 4500 gallon Intex pool, buried 1.5 ft. Pac-Fab Dynamo 3/4 hp pump. Hayward S180T sand filter, bought used. Taylor K-2006 test kit. Rocket mass heater based wood fired pool heater.

  16. Back To Top    #16

    Re: Black Lagoon

    pH is 7.2
    FC is 0.5 (it was the faintest pink)
    CYA was roughly 33-34

    what now?
    17k IG vinyl
    1 HP w/sand filter
    built 1996

  17. Back To Top    #17
    linen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    8,649

    Re: Black Lagoon

    Quote Originally Posted by MattF
    CYA was roughly 33-34
    That is surprising given you history or puck usage (I would have expected higher). Did you do the test in full sun with the sun at your back looking straight down at the tube?

    How does your water look?

    Assuming your water is still cloudy and your cya measurment above is correct, then follow the SLAM process. Your ph is in a good place for now, so leave it until you are done with the SLAM process.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  18. Back To Top    #18

    Re: Black Lagoon

    I was sitting in a shady spot but there was plenty of light. I kept going until I couldn't see it anymore just as instructed. I thought it was going to be a lot higher too. Guess ill go pick up some liquid chlorine!

    The pool is still cloudy. It was a aquamarine color for about four days. Now it's starting to tinge just the slightest bit green.
    17k IG vinyl
    1 HP w/sand filter
    built 1996

  19. Back To Top    #19

    In the Industry

    duraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sebring, Florida
    Posts
    30,082

    Re: Black Lagoon

    Now it's starting to tinge just the slightest bit green.
    Got a pic? It's usually quite helpful.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  20. Back To Top    #20

    Re: Black Lagoon

    I guess my next question is how much total liquid chlorine will I need? I used the calculator, but that's just taking into account one dose.
    17k IG vinyl
    1 HP w/sand filter
    built 1996

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •