We installed a new AG pool this July and filled it on July 24th.
Problem 1 - We purchased the Pool Pilot Digital 220 swg and started it about 3 days ago. I was adding liquid chlorine until then (just liquid chlorine or bleach, nothing else from the pool store thanks to this forum). I added enough chlorine to get 3ppm before starting the swg. When I tested the chlorine the next day, it was low (less than 1). So I put it in a 24-hour Boost just to make sure it was working. This morning (around 9am), the reading from my Taylor K-2006 read 3.8ppm chlorine. About 4 hours later, I brought my sample into the pool store to confirm my CYA (more on that later) and they read 0.3 CC and 0.0 FC. I came home and tested the water again with the Taylor kit and I got 0.5 FC and 0.0 CC. Our water is crystal clear and has been since day 1. We have only swam in it twice due to the unseasonably cold weather and rainstorms in Wisconsin. The pool temp has been 75 degrees or less everyday. Why did we have such a dramatic drop in chlorine in 4 hours?
Problem 2 - We added about 360 lbs of salt per the recommendation of the pool store (actually we added 80 lbs less than they recommended). The salt was added many days before hooking up the swg. We scrubbed the salt around well with a broom and went swimming briefly to mix it up. The Pool Pilot states that we have 3300 ppm of salt, but the pool store today said that we have 2300 ppm. Why would there be such a huge discrepancy?
Problem 3 - The electrician set up the Pool Pilot Dig-220 for a 110v conversion. During the initial set up, I set the Purifier for 50% and the cell at level 2. When I read the volts/amps, it showed 31v, 5.9a. When in boost mode it's 31v 6.5a. I changed the setting to 75% and now it reads 31v 6.3a. Is that voltage too high?
Problem 4 - The temperature in the pool appears to be 2-3 degrees colder than the temp that the Pool Pilot is reading. I manually adjusted it on the Pool Pilot. I assume this isn't a big deal unless I hear otherwise from someone.
Problem 5 - I can't determine my CYA. The pool store initially showed it at zero on 7/30. Today they showed it as 45. I have tested it with my kit twice (once today) and both times I haven't been able to test for any CYA. The black dot never disappears, although the test only goes down to 30. I have ProTeam UV Shield to add to the water. Should I assume that I currently have 45ppm and add whatever the pool calculator instructs me to do? When Pool School says to add the solid stabilizer with a sock in the skimmer basket, does that mean a skimmer sock?
Here are my numbers from my K-2006 kit:
pH- Higher than 8.0 (it took 9 drops of acid demand agent to get pH to 7.2)
TA- 300 (I received the same number 2 days ago)
Calcium Hardness- TBD (the sample never turned red, so I need to research this some more)
CYA - less than 30, possibly zero?
Here are the pool store numbers:
Calcium Hardness- 375
My pH has been high for over a week. I've been adding Muriatic Acid periodically. I added more today. I am aware that adding Muriatic Acid over time to lower pH, then aerating the water repeatedly should bring down the TA. If there is anything else I'm missing on that, please let me know.
Please help! I have spent many hours on this AWESOME forum but I can't find answers to my specific situation. Thanks!!!