Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: By what date do you close pool in Michigan?

  1. Back To Top    #1

    By what date do you close pool in Michigan?

    Hi all,

    I'm interested in hearing on average if there is a certain date by which you close your pool. I live in Michigan and have a lot of trees in my yard.
    It seems like the main dump of leave doesn't happen until mid-Oct. I'm worried if I close too soon and we end up with a hot Indian Summer, how that may effect the water w/algae. I'm worried if I wait too long, I'll be forever skimming out leaves.

    Thanks!
    27K gallon, IG vinyl pool, SD80 Sand Dollar sand filter-Michigan, 1hp pump

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    SW Wisconsin
    Posts
    518

    Re: By what date do you close pool in Michigan?

    Hi, I am over in Soutwestern Wisconsin..so not TOO far from you. I am the same as you. I have a number of tree's very close to my pool, and I try and ALWAYS have the pool closed and winter cover on BEFORE those leaves start falling, which again like you, is about Mid October. IF it stays warm enough, I'll put the winter cover on so I don't get all the debris in the pool, BUT I keep the water level up and pumps running to circulate the water until I am ready to drain down and shut everything down. I normally shut everything down when we get consecutive nights under 50 Degrees F. Once under 50F you are pretty well guarantee'd no more algae will grow in your water.

    Hope that helps.
    Dan
    33' x 52" Swim and Play Inc. PARAGON AGP. Hayward H200 Heater. Hayward Power-Flo LX 1.5hp pump. Sta-Rite Cristal Flo T-210WF Sand Filter. Stenner 45M5 chlorine pump

  3. Back To Top    #3
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    37,389

    Re: By what date do you close pool in Michigan?

    Close is not dependant on a date. Ideally you want to close when the water is below 60 degrees (or even 50 degrees) and then you want to open before warms up above that as well. At the colder water temps, algae growth is greatly reduced and if you follow the recommended closeing procedures, you should open to a clear pool.

    pool-school/closing_in_ground_pool
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    653

    Re: By what date do you close pool in Michigan?

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    Close is not dependant on a date. Ideally you want to close when the water is below 60 degrees (or even 50 degrees) and then you want to open before warms up above that as well. At the colder water temps, algae growth is greatly reduced and if you follow the recommended closeing procedures, you should open to a clear pool.

    pool-school/closing_in_ground_pool
    I don't live in Michigan but the above is what I do. I let the water thermometer hit 55 and then I close on the first day without wind that I can manage, as long as it's still below 55. This is usually about ten days before the leaves really start to fall, usually just after peak color has passed. In NJ that is 10 days on either side of Oct. 10, but the thermometer is the boss. If leaves were already coming down, I'd close a few degrees warmer to stay ahead. Oct. 20 is my latest close since 2007 and that was nasty, leaf-wise.

    I have never had algae at the open and I've been closing this way since 2005.

    It may be a minor heresy, but I switch to pucks from LC about the time I stop using the pool (~Sept. 15), just for convenience. A floater full does real well in the cooler water and any excess CYA disappears over the winter. I always find CYA 30 or below at the open. YMMV on this.

    I don't have a heater; if you extend your season you might get squeezed getting the temp down before leaf fall. It's pretty tight with no heater.
    Current: 28,000G 18'x36' I/G AnthonySylvan Plaster; Waterway 60 sq.ft. DE Filter; 1.0hp x 1.65 SF Two-Speed (B2982) WhisperFlo; 2004-Present
    Previous: 40,000G 20'x40' I/G Koven unlined WWII salvage 5/8" marine steel; Lomart Stainless Sand Filter; 3/4hp Hayward SuperPump; 1946-2003 (managed by me from about 1964)
    Ancient Taylor K-2000, upgraded with Taylor CH, TA, and FAS-DPD, and TFT CYA tests.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •