question about an install

[urdady1]

in the planning faze of my conversion to SWG, cant seem to post pics (?) ... would it be fine to put my SWG in place of my in-line chlorinator canister? not a lot of places to install while keeping the canister. my inground pool is 20,000 gallon.ish with spa. thinking the compupool 60,000 gallon SWG set-up
thanks

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

Well that depends where your chlorinator is installed. Either shrink the picture or put it on a picture hosting site and post the link.

 

[Charlie_R]

As far as I understand the situation, the SWG unit should be the last thing before the actual returns to the pool. So when you put it in, it should be between the filter and the return control valves. If that is where your chlorinator canister is, then it's ok to put it there.

 

[urdady1]

trying to post a pic

 

[urdady1]

it worked, the canister is on the pool discharge, the line next to it is spa discharge. not much room and it will be tight even puting it in place of the existing canister

 

[jblizzle]

Yeah ... we need a little wider view. I am not sure the SWG would even fit in that space. Given how close all the fittings are together, you may end up having to do a LOT of plumbing work.

 

[urdady1]

lets try this

 

[urdady1]

or this

 

[Charlie_R]

Are you ready for this?

There is a way to deal with the overly tight plumbing as you now have it. It will involve a bit of careful cutting and sanding/filing.

If you are interested, I think I can talk you through it.

 

[urdady1]

absolutely ready, bring it!!

 

[urdady1]

how about this with the purple being the swg... best i could do with paint lol

 

[jblizzle]

That should be fine or on the lower pipe. The problem is the 90 and tee so close on the top there is not enough pipe left to extended. Maybe Charlie will have a suggestion.

Some SWG have a minimum required straight pipe before the flow sensor, so just check that in the installation manual.

 

[Charlie_R]

Yes, I have a suggestion. I have had to use this when a former boss screwed up a plumbing install, 50 miles from the nearest plumbing supply store.



You will need to cut the fittings at the red lines. When that is done, you will need to cut through the fitting sleeve that is left on the pipe, being careful no avoid cutting into the pipe itself. Do this in several places around the pipe, and with a sharp chisel carefully peal each section off of the pipe. This will leave a rough surface that will need to be carefully sanded somewhat smooth, doesn't have to be perfect. Just enough so you can slip a coupler or other fitting onto the end of the pipe. The cleaner/primer will finish smoothing the surface enough for the glue to "bite" into the pipe.

When you get both 90's off in this manner, you can extend your plumbing in whatever manner appropriate for your new SWG.

If you happen to chip a bit of the pipe off, as long as the chipped section will still be covered by at least half of the depth of the new fitting you should be good.

This method has worked for me on pipes with 40 - 80 psi pressure (normal city water) without failure, so I think that the 10 - 40 psi from your pool pump won't bother it.

If you accidentally crack the pipe outside where the new fitting will cover, you can adapt this method for removing the stub from the next fitting and then smooth the inside of it. A little harder to do, but can be done.

 

[jblizzle]

I do not think you need to do this on the lower pipe, just cut it lower, add a coupler and then put a new 90 on to the right like you drew.

Really what Charlie is suggesting should not be possible. The solvent should effectively weld the 2 pieces together so that you can not peal it off. So, I am not sure how well that will work.

 

[Charlie_R]

Yes, the solvent does weld the pieces together. However it is a thin layer that is chemically welded, and this method takes advantage of that.

Do note the difference in the flange length between fittings designed for pressure, and DVW. Pressure are a little over twice the area of DWV, in order for this thin interface to be able to handle the stress without breaking the chemical bond.

When you join two pieces of PVC pipe, the cleaner/primer softens the outer hardest layer of PVC, allowing the solvent to penetrate. This penetration is normally not more than a few thousanths of an inch, and what you are smoothing off is the welded material itself, if you are successful in removing the fitting without cracking or breaking the pipe.

An "old school" plumber taught me that trick.