Would the TroubleFreePool.com suggested goal levels in the pool calculator be appropriate for a 400 gallon hot tub?
Best Pool Chemistry Software or Application
- Thread starter Chad628
- Start date
Welcome to tfp, Chad628 
In terms of calculating doses I use poolcalculator.com for my hot tub (420 gallons) as well as my pool (11000 gallons). In terms of goal levels, you can use the "Traditional Spa" settings in the "Suggested Goal Levels" section of the poolcalculator.
In terms of calculating doses I use poolcalculator.com for my hot tub (420 gallons) as well as my pool (11000 gallons). In terms of goal levels, you can use the "Traditional Spa" settings in the "Suggested Goal Levels" section of the poolcalculator.
Welcome to TFP!!!Generall yes. Have you seen the Spa forum ... here is a related sticky:
how-do-i-use-chlorine-in-my-spa-or-pool-t10095.html
Based on what I have been reading in the spa forum it seems like it would be helpful if the pool calculator had an additional set of suggested TroubleFreePool.com goal levels for spas. It seems the recommended chemical levels for spas by the TroubleFreePool.com website are a bit different from traditional spas. Chem Geek has strongly recommended Borates at 50 and TA at 50. It would be nice to see that reflected in the suggested goal levels in the pool calculator. There does not seem to be a consensus as to what should be a suggested goal for calcium hardness. I have seen different numbers recommended here and am still confused about that.
That would be nice, but unfortunately JasonLion, who created it, not longer owns the rights. It sounds like you are on top of the chemistry, so maybe you don't need it? In my case from my very early usage I didn't even choose a suggested goal level category when I used the poolcalculator since i knew from reading what I wanted for targets.
In terms of CH, you don't want it too high since that can cause scaling on the heater. Generally having it low is not a problem unless your tub surface is fiberglass and then you just need it above 100 ppm. Also, sometimes foaming can be eliminated with some additional CH (100-150 ppm). What is your tub surface? What is your CH?
In terms of CH, you don't want it too high since that can cause scaling on the heater. Generally having it low is not a problem unless your tub surface is fiberglass and then you just need it above 100 ppm. Also, sometimes foaming can be eliminated with some additional CH (100-150 ppm). What is your tub surface? What is your CH?
My hot tub shell is fiberglass with an acrylic finish on top. My CH levels are 130 ppm. I think I am on top of the chemistry thanks to Chem Geeks advice. He pointed out to me that the chlorine levels don't have to be as high in a hot tub because the risk of algae is low due to the fact that it is covered and not exposed to a lot of sunlight. It seems to me that the CYA/Chlorine chart does not have to be as strictly adhered to for hot tubs for that reason.
Yes, your understanding is correct, but the only reason for allowing the lower FC relative to CYA (which is already low at 30-40 ppm) is that most people don't like noticing the chlorine during their soak which is much more noticeable due to the higher temperatures and generally lots of aeration. So it's pushing the boundaries to have one start the soak with a lower roughly 2 ppm FC, but it's OK since the spa is generally covered most of the time and since one blasts with more chlorine right after the soak which is generally not more than an hour or so. If one has strangers over and wants more safety from person-to-person transmission of disease, then a higher FC would be needed so that it lasts through the soak time. If one has the lower amount of chlorine at the start of the soak, then it combines with ammonia in sweat to form monochloramine so bacteria are still prevented from reproducing, but kill times are slower.
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