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Thread: Testing chlorine chemical content

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    Testing chlorine chemical content

    Split by monderator from HERE. Please start a new thread for your own questions. Thanks, jblizzle

    Hi Guys,
    My problem is that 1.5 years ago I had the same problem with CYA. I drained the pool and got it fixed. I always bought 65% non stabilized chlorine after that problem. Now the pool is green and I just added 9 lbs of chlorine and no change. Checked the CYA and was amazed that it was above 100. I think the problem is I live in Costa Rica and there is no consumer protection so I think they are selling trichlor. Is there anyway I can test the product when I buy it to make sure it is not trichlor? I just emptied my pool and will spend $400-$500 to refill it. I have a SWG so I have not been checking the CYA since I don't use stabilized chlorine.
    Thanks for any help
    Paul
    Playas Del Coco, Costa Rica
    36'X16' in-ground. 25000 gallon
    3/4/HP Hayward with 280 pound sand filter
    AquaRite SWG

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Testing chlorine chemical content

    One simple check, solid chlorine products that contain CYA are acidic, while sold chlorine products without CYA are basic.

    With a SWG you want the CYA level to be around 70 to 80. If CYA is near zero it will be impossible for a SWG to keep up with the chlorine demand.
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    Isaac-1's Avatar
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    May 2010
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    Re: Testing chlorine chemical content

    The simplest test would be to see if it is Cal-Hypo, if you have a CH test that should be fairly easy. Take a jug of tap water test a before CH level, add a small amount of the powdered chlorine (say a small fraction a of a teaspoon), shake, let sit a day or so, retest CH if it is way up you have Cal-Hypo, otherwise you likely have trichlor or dichlor.
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    Re: Testing chlorine chemical content

    Thanks for the help.
    Playas Del Coco, Costa Rica
    36'X16' in-ground. 25000 gallon
    3/4/HP Hayward with 280 pound sand filter
    AquaRite SWG

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