DO I really have to empty 11% of water to get TA right?

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M

mominoz

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Jul 22, 2013
21
New pool, Been circulating pump 24 hr a day since set up as it was well water on a second fill, and got some sediment. I used the t-50, and set my chemicals based on pool calculator. I hadn't tested CYA & TA again until today (it's been a week since we filled roughly) and I wanted to wait to see if it had stabilized. We are running SWG (intex) 6 hr. a day, but seems like the Cl and FCL is kinda high( it is very yellow at least 5 on the color comparison in the water tubes.So I was thinking of cutting the SWG back to 4 hr. as the chart says. Hubby for some reason put it on 6 hr..
Ok so ph was up to 8.2 ( we had a couple inches of rain)...so I put dry acid in based on pool calculator last night. Today I tested everything ------------ temp 84. TA-110-120 . CYA 90,CL 5,FC 5,ph 7.8and salt test strips say 6....assume 6ppm.
Pool Calculator said to replace 11% of water.............really? If I did what it said before , then way are numbers off still?
 
What did you put into the calculator for pool volume, your "now" numbers, and "target" numbers?

For even an SWG, 90 CYA might be considered only a little high. That may be why the calculator is calling for an 11% drain. Your TA, FC, CC, pH wouldn't be needing a drain to fix.
 
We recommend using MA instead if dry acid. You can lower the TA with aeration. With a SWG your pH will have a tendency to keep rising. It requires constant monitoring and should never be allowed to get above 7.8.

The only reason you need to drain a bit of water is to get the CYA down between 70-80. Then you can adjust your run time to maintain a FC of 3-4. Spend some time reading Pool School (button on top right of this page).
 
No.

TA is reduced with acid. CYA is reduced by draining, although if your pool is clear, that isn't even necessary. Just maintain a higher FC level, suitable for 90 CYA, and everything should be fine. I'd target something like 6, and never let it drop below 5. With that high CYA, if you should develop algae, it will be a bear to clear, so it's better to maintain a higher FC all the time as insurance. Since you have a SWG, it's just a matter of and adjustment, no extra expense.
 
going by the numbers here on TFP about what works for a SWG,even if they said the "instructions" were not exactly the same. So I was aiming for a TA of 60-80. and CYA of 70-80. It said if I got above that it may shorten the life of the SWG. I plugged in the numbers I had when we filled the pool with well water , which was nothing, except a Ph of 7.8. After adding the chemicals based on plugging in the numbers I had and the target numbers I did what it said....then my Ph went up down to 7. 5 (I was aiming for 7.4-6), it did rain and added some water maybe 2", then yesterday, ph was up to 8.2, so I added acid last night 24 oz. as the calculator said. Today ph was down a bit, but not target level.
Aiming for ph of 7.5 or so , TA 60-80, CYA 70-80 . as these are the numbers the TFP sections on SWG works well.
Pool volume. I started with 10,600, but then I recalculated today and it says 11,400. So when I did numbers today I based it on 11,400.
 
You can take measurements for pH, TA, FC in 30-60 minutes after adding the chemicals to balance them.

When pH reads 8.2 is could very well be higher as the test limit is 8.2 and it might take more acid to lower it than what the calculator says.

As you test more often you will notice a trend if you are adding too much or too little and will need to adjust your volume to the calculator. Shoot for the suggested targets and the pool will be fine.
 
Added more "Ph down" via Pool calculator amounts. Today ph is 7.8 (aiming for 7.5), FC, CC are both 5ppm+, very dark yellow on drop tests. TA still 120 probably.....so I read you want it lower for SWG, so is the ONLY way to get it down is to empty some water and replace?
 
You can lower the TA with muriatic acid. It will also lower your pH. If pH gets too low you can aerate to raise it back up without affecting TA. You can aerate the pool by pointing the return up so the water breaks the surface.
 

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well, guess its a trip to town (23 miles, and hope the wallmart has some more Ph down, Hubby visited the Lowes, Home Depot, and only Walmart had one, hope I can find some....next big town is 45 miles.....
 
Muratic acid works better tha pH down (dry acid) and its readily available at HD, Lowes, Ace, True Value Hardware and many other places.
 
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