resource for borax?

SLAM reply:

Thanks for following, Tech.Guy.
Current CYA=80. Yes, I overshot with FC=52, but am still losing fast, and must.alg target=44. I anticipate FC=40-ish by nightfall.

I'm still awaiting response from community about softened water. I think this is a worthy thread to follow, for water-quality in general.
If TDS are higher after treatment, why in heck are deposits around faucets, dishes, etc. in house so much reduced? I just don't get that. Even if it's because the substituted ions (either Na+ of K+) are much more soluble, they're still there!! So, when water evaporates, why aren't those deposits still left behind?

-- da nuklhed
 
Softened water is a good idea for refill water when dealing with high calcium levels in pool water.

TDS is almost a useless number in this forum. If you need to watch the salt content of the water due to soft natural stone around the pool, then that is about the only time that TDS is important for this forum. And if you are concerned about the salinity, then measure the salinity only and not bother with TDS.
 
Re: SLAM in process

nuklhed said:
Many thanks to Guy and Tony for following up. Very reassuring to be flying in formation.
Finally got FC up to 45. Took an additional 6 gals.. 14 so far. Some organics in the water too, plus the algae. Filter pressure rose really quickly too, probably all that dead algae being swept up. I'll brush again and re-test in a couple hours.
Has anyone seen an in-depth inquiry I made about feasibility of going to softened water in a swimming pool? Posted to community but directed to Chem.Geek.
I cannot even find it myself, maybe it disappeared in the virtual ether.


Look in the upper right of the forum pages. Click on the link "your posts". With only 41 posts, it will not be hard to find.
 
You MUST stay at standard shock level while SLAMing, do not go above that, even for mustard algae. You should be targeting 31FC and not much more, you're way above that and need to let it drop, drop, drop down to target. Adding a bit more than target is OK, say 33, but no more. As more is not always better or faster!
Only once you have passed all 3 criteria do you then elevate it to mustard levels and only for 24hrs.
I think some more reading of PS is in order. :)

pool-school/shocking_your_pool
pool-school/mustard_algae
3rd paragraph in particular for now, but read it all when the time comes and as you're getting close.

You can do it, read and hang in there!
Also, no need to worry much about the CH issue at this point. One thing at a time, its time will come. :)
 
End of SLAM

Okay gentlemen, I am at the end of the Slam process and now wonder how long it will take for the Cl level to come down enough for swimming again. This pool has 5 large jets, would it help 'blow off' the high level of chlorine by running the jets?
Otherwise, if I have to wait for natural processes, how long should I tell my family they have to wait?
AND, while on the subject, what FC level should I maintain henceforth, considering that 2.5ppm was low enough to allow the mustard algae to explode in the first place. The CYA runs at high limit around 80, so should I try to hold FC = 4-5 range?
I will be using liquid chlorine thru the rest of this summer, and probably rejuvenate the SWG system after swimming season.
 
end of SLAM

Yes, I'm fairly certain all criteria as of tomorrow morn. Although not in a tidy straight line. More like a drunk-walk. :cheers: Will test again this evening for that result, then compare. Isn't 20 gals Chlorine over span of 4 days enough?
 
Re: End of SLAM

nuklhed said:
while on the subject, what FC level should I maintain henceforth, considering that 2.5ppm was low enough to allow the mustard algae to explode in the first place. The CYA runs at high limit around 80, so should I try to hold FC = 4-5 range?
I will be using liquid chlorine thru the rest of this summer
Once the Slam is complete, I would maintain an FC level of 12 ppm for about a week, and then slowly let it drop down to about 6 to 9 ppm, and never less than 6 ppm.
 

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Re: end of SLAM

nuklhed said:
Yes, I'm fairly certain all criteria as of tomorrow morn. Although not in a tidy straight line. More like a drunk-walk. :cheers: Will test again this evening for that result, then compare. Isn't 20 gals Chlorine over span of 4 days enough?

Not if you don't pass the OCLT. Enough is enough when it is. :mrgreen:
 
test results, end of SLAM

I don't know how to interpret behavior of FAS-DPD test. This morning saw same behavior as many times before. Got nice bright pink color after R-0870, then at 79 drops R-0871 color had gone to very thin pink. At 81 drops barely any color, not really even pink... more like dull yellow? At 82 drops went to gin-clear. But after sitting a few minutes, color went back to thin pink. Took two more drops (84) to turn back to gin-clear. After another 20 minutes, a bit of color had returned again, took one more drop (85) to return to gin clear.

So, which reading am I to have most confidence in? 40.5? 41.0? 42? 42.5?

These readings, by the way, are about 2-3 points below last night's final reading 44. Am I close enough? Pool water is very clear and there's no hint of algae to be seen.

OH.... and please may I have comment from community?: will it help "blow off" this high chlorine level by running fountain jets during daytime? Family is eager to resume swimming again. HOT here lately.
 
Once the sample turns completely clear the test is complete. That would be an FC of 41 ppm assuming you're using the 10 ml sample size. If the test sits for a while after it's complete it will turn back pink. Pay no attention to that! You can swin up to shock level for your CYA.
 
Nuklhed is at mustard shock levels, shouldn't he/she not allow swimming till it falls down to standard shock levels?
I thought I had read that mustard levels were advised against for swimming, or am I mistaken on that?

Also, to the op.
Have you followed procedure, making sure to place all toys, hoses, poles, parts and bits in the pool for an hour @ mustard shock level to be sure all dormant or otherwise surviving algae spores have been destroyed?

As for how fast the CL drops, it varries. It can be days, or a week or more. It just depends on water temp, solar radiation/uv levels and your particular pool. At that high of a cya, I'd say you have a bit of a wait on your hands.

Also want to make sure you're using 2 full scoops of dpd powder at those high FC levels.
Lastly, did you pass all three criteria, including an OCLT at std. shock levels before proceeding to mustard levels and only for 24hrs at that level? Basically the mustard level is insurance to be sure that extra hearty mustard algae is dead, all the way, no pulse! ;)

Good job getting to this point. Yyyyyaaayyyrrrrr! :party:
Ps. We need an animated emoticon of animal from the Muppets partyin' it down!
 
end of SLAM

Thanks for followup, y-not. Yup, you betcha we left the pool toys, poles, brushes, etc. in the pool during the process.. the whole time too. Toys are cheap and hose is old so we don't care if there's a bit of... er... 'degradation'? :evil:
As for OCLT, I did evening test around 7-ish so a bit of sun was still up, then did morning test around 6:30 with a little sun too. Cl level went from 44 to 41.5, which I assessed as 'good enough' to call it a pass.
Just yesterday afternoon however, I discovered a small pocket of yellow around a pool light. Now what? I'm wondering if a heavy dose of Cl just at that point will suffice - it's shallow and on the bottom, and I'll dribble a quart or so upon it slowly. Does that seem like enough to kill it off? Of, should I raise the whole pool back up to 45ppm? I think it would take about 3 gallons to get there.
 
You are supposed to get behind light niches and under removable ladders when doing a yellow/mustard algae shock. As stated in the Mustard Algae Pool School article:

While at mustard algae shock level you need to throughly brush the entire pool, including walls, floor, steps, skimmer, under ladders, everywhere. All pool tools and toys and anything else that is used in the pool needs to be wiped down with a dilute bleach solution or soaked in the pool for an hour while at mustard algae shock level. Bathing suits should be run through the laundry. If you have underwater lights, they should be removed from their niche and the niche brushed out, and then the lights replaced. If you have fountains, or waterfalls, or other water features, they need to be run for at least an hour while at mustard algae shock level. Be very thorough, or you will most likely just need to do it all over again.
If you don't follow the instructions precisely, the algae will come back because you have to completely kill it off where it hides in shady areas (including behind pool lights).
 
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