Urgent Help Needed - Leaking Chlorinator

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DOMO

DOMO

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Bronze Supporter
Mar 13, 2013
379
Rowley, MA
Hi. My chlorninator lid has developed a crack in it and is spewing water. I've been 2 pool stores this morning and no one can help. The unit has no brand name or model number markings on it. It does not surprise me at all that our installer gave us some cheap, no name, piece of junk. I have turned the dial down to zero and it appears to be holding for the time being (so I will add pucks into the skimmer basket). I may have to disconnect the flexbile "in" hose and bypass it, but I've never done that and I don't want to create another point of leaking. We are having our big annual Summer party tomorrow, so we have a LOT of people coming to the house and this has already taken up 2 hours of my party prep day today. Ugh! PLEASE HELP!
 
Close it off, take the tablets out of the skimmer, and keep your chlorine level up with bleach for now. That will give you more control to making sure your level is good for the party. You can work on finding replacement parts after the weekend (though I would just say get rid of it personally).
 
Do you happen to know your CYA level? If so you just find your level on this chart, find your target chlorine level, then use the pool calculator (link in my signature) to figure out how much to add to bring your level up to there.

As an aside: since you use tablets you need to keep an eye on your CYA level to assure you don't get overstabilized. If you don't have a kit with a CYA test it would be a very good idea to get one. I have a link to a couple very good test kits in my signature.
 
Hi. Sorry for the delay, been a little crazy here. CYA is around 80. New problem: When I turned the chlorine feeder to zero yesterday, everything ran fine and it didn't leak all day. When the system turned on today, it was spewing water as if it was not set to zero/closed. Didn't realize for 40 minutes this morning and water was everywhere. Today is the day that we're having a big Summer party, terrible timing for an equipment issue!!
 
Hi all, just checking in again to see if anyone has a clue what brand this chlorinator is? I realize that we should replace it, but while I research a replacement unit, thinking I might be able to get a replacement lid in the short run to get the unit back up and running. Thanks!
 
Hi. Thanks for the reply. My local pool store thought it was a Hayward too, based on the colors, but when I brought it down there, the replacement lid he had did not fit/match up to the one I brought down there. Would think there'd be a sticker or markings saying its a Hayward or a model #, but there is nothing other than a sticker showing the instructions. I'm at work now, but I would guess the diameter is in the 6-7" range.
 
I called and spoke with someone at Hayward. They told me to check the inside and outside top of the lid (which I can't do until tonight as I'm at work). That said, she said if there is no Hayward sticker it's probably not a Hayward, but it looks just like a CL220! Even if it is, the next problem is that I have no paperwork from the installer to prove that it'd be under warranty. Ugh!!
 

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In your Picts lay a ruler next to or across the lid for scale. I'm surprised that even on a private label product that they wouldn't have the manufacturer name and model listed in small print at the bottom of the label. All my equipment is private label California Pools but still has the Hayward numbers on it.
 
Hi. Thanks for th reply. I completely agree that it should have markings somewhere on it, but I just checked the lid again and not a single marking. If you knew my builder, you would not be surprised that he probably provided us with the most inexpensive, knock off he could get, which is probably why it's broken in it's first season. The lid diameter is 6 5/8" and 5 1/4" on the inner ring. Will attach pics in another post as I'm replying via smartphone at the moment.
 
If you decide to use the methods recommended on this forum, you will have no need for that device. Everyone here either uses liquid chlorine (or household bleach) or has a salt system with SWG.
 
Hi. Understood and I'm just starting to learn about BBB. That said, for now I have 50 lbs of chlorine tablets that I'd prefer not to waste and I would also need to plug up the holes in my plumbing for the chlorinator, so in the short run, I'd prefer to get a replacement like for the unit until I get a better handle on how to maintain using BBB. Thanks.
 
DOMO said:
Hi. Understood and I'm just starting to learn about BBB. That said, for now I have 50 lbs of chlorine tablets that I'd prefer not to waste and I would also need to plug up the holes in my plumbing for the chlorinator, so in the short run, I'd prefer to get a replacement like for the unit until I get a better handle on how to maintain using BBB. Thanks.
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With CYA of 80ish, the FC should be maintained between 6 and 11 and never below 6. Without a proper test kit, you cannot test accurately.

The recommended CYA levels for (non-SWG) chlorine pools are between 30 and 50. Your CYA is already way too high.

Adding/using more tabs will only increase the CYA level until pool is overstabilized and require huge amount of water replacement to correct.
But, it usually turns green and cloudy before you realize what is happening.

Accurate testing prevents these issues so that you have a trouble free pool.

I suggest you stop with tabs now and switch to plain bleach/liquid chlorine. Save the tabs for vacations. They will last years stored in a cool/dry environment.

To switch to bleach/liquid chlorine, just start adding it. Example: If your pool is about 10K gallons, it would use about 6 cups of 8.25% plain bleach daily.

btw, as an FYI, if you have any pucks/sticks,etc. in the skimmer, the pump should run 24/7.
 
Have you tried calling the installer and asking if the unit is covered under warranty? If nothing else maybe you could get a brand name and model number or some kind of information that might help you find parts. Personally, I'd disconnect it, take it with me, and go pay him a little visit.
 
Butterfly, thanks for the info. I went back and re-read my recent test results from the local pool store, and "80" was a typo, it was actually 30 (apologies). I have a Taylor test kit, but as I'm just learning the ropes in testing, I also have the local pool store test as well.

Fortunately, we have not had any issues with cloudiness or green water (knock on wood). Is that explainable given that our CYA level is actually 30?

Can you help me understand why I need to run the filter 24/7 if pucks are in the skimmer?

I know that SWG are popular on this board, but I've also read that this can damage the stone/paver work around the pool. Is this true?
 
Hi Jeetyet, i wish we could do what you suggest, but unfortunately, we have no contact with the installer, except via our attorney at this point (much more on this to come in a separate thread!).
 
The reason that the pump needs to run 24 hours per day when tablets are in the skimmer is that the tablets create a very high FC locally and even more damaging they are very low in pH. Very low pH will even ruin plastic if left for a period of time. Also as soon as you start the pump the high FC and very low pH water is forced through the system and can harm parts within it.
 

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