If your CYA is truly 60 your shock level is 24. pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock
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Test, Test, Test
- Thread starter rmozer
- Start date
rmozer,
I am going to be blunt, please don't be offended. It sounds like you are rushing into this project (SLAM) and you don't have your ducks in a row.
1. Yes, you may be able to get the reagent locally......call around. You cannot do the SLAM correctly without it.
2. Yes, you can damage your liner by having your FC too high and FC 45 is too high.
3. The correct FC for your CYA is found in the chart in pool school - it appears you have not consulted that yet.
4. The SLAM process must be followed precisely and it appears you are not doing that. It won't work unless you do.
5. The MSDS can be found on Taylor's website.
6. Your pH is not too high. What made you think it was?
I am going to be blunt, please don't be offended. It sounds like you are rushing into this project (SLAM) and you don't have your ducks in a row.
1. Yes, you may be able to get the reagent locally......call around. You cannot do the SLAM correctly without it.
2. Yes, you can damage your liner by having your FC too high and FC 45 is too high.
3. The correct FC for your CYA is found in the chart in pool school - it appears you have not consulted that yet.
4. The SLAM process must be followed precisely and it appears you are not doing that. It won't work unless you do.
5. The MSDS can be found on Taylor's website.
6. Your pH is not too high. What made you think it was?
I'm not offended, so no worries on that.
I was away over the last weekend and came back to a green pool, and it's been that way ever since. I understand this all takes time, and because I have a sand filter, I understand it may take longer. I will use some DE to help it along.
I will try to find the FAS/DPD titration reagent locally so I can stay on top of the FC levels and don't lose battle ground with the algae.
It appears that one of the important tests is CYA, which is a bit subjective to know what my actual shocking level is. I also ran out of that reagent, so I can only use the level I last measured as my basis, which was at 60ppm.
I really appreciate all the support you guys have provided, and will try to follow the SLAM process a bit more closely.
Sorry for any trouble.
Bob
I was away over the last weekend and came back to a green pool, and it's been that way ever since. I understand this all takes time, and because I have a sand filter, I understand it may take longer. I will use some DE to help it along.
I will try to find the FAS/DPD titration reagent locally so I can stay on top of the FC levels and don't lose battle ground with the algae.
It appears that one of the important tests is CYA, which is a bit subjective to know what my actual shocking level is. I also ran out of that reagent, so I can only use the level I last measured as my basis, which was at 60ppm.
I really appreciate all the support you guys have provided, and will try to follow the SLAM process a bit more closely.
Sorry for any trouble.
Bob
No trouble, just gentle reminders. From our own experiences, and that of others that have gone before.
If you haven't added any of the solid pucks or granulated shock that use dichlor or trichlor, then it is highly probable that your CYA is still around 60 ppm, so go with that.
Most of the recommendations I've seen on adding DE to the sand filter say to do it after the water turns blue and cloudy, not while it's still green.
Most of the recommendations I've seen on adding DE to the sand filter say to do it after the water turns blue and cloudy, not while it's still green.
I finally got the algae under control, and now I just need to get the water cleared up.
I just returned from my local pool supply store and a guy was telling me about algal blooms resulting from phosphates in the pool water. I've done a little research on it and wanted to hear what you guys have to say about it. I don't see anything in the "pool calculator" or the test kit I got from you to even check for it, nor what to do about it if the levels are high.
Is there a product that you recommend to reduce phosphates levels?
The water in my pool comes from an on-site well, which I use to water the lawn. I am on Long Island where and my well water has very low TDS to start with. I don't believe that the phosphates are coming from my well water. The main problem with it is the pH, which is quite low (~5.4).
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Bob
I just returned from my local pool supply store and a guy was telling me about algal blooms resulting from phosphates in the pool water. I've done a little research on it and wanted to hear what you guys have to say about it. I don't see anything in the "pool calculator" or the test kit I got from you to even check for it, nor what to do about it if the levels are high.
Is there a product that you recommend to reduce phosphates levels?
The water in my pool comes from an on-site well, which I use to water the lawn. I am on Long Island where and my well water has very low TDS to start with. I don't believe that the phosphates are coming from my well water. The main problem with it is the pH, which is quite low (~5.4).
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Bob
Think of phosphates as food in the cabinet/refridgerator. If no one is there to eat it, does it matter if it's there or not?
That is why the experts here keep saying the phosphate levels don't matter to the pool owner, but do matter to the pool stores. Phosphate reducers are a high profit margin product that nobody really needs except in extremely rare cases.
That is why the experts here keep saying the phosphate levels don't matter to the pool owner, but do matter to the pool stores. Phosphate reducers are a high profit margin product that nobody really needs except in extremely rare cases.
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