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Thread: tri-Sensor Simulator (How to use?)

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    tri-Sensor Simulator (How to use?)

    i have not been able to resolve my "check flow" warning. And before I order a new Tri-sensor with a new Manifold (the new manifold because it's easier than removing and replacing the tri-sensor with the old)... i decided to buy a Tri-Sensor Simulator. Once this comes in the mail...how do i use it? will instructions come with it? any experience with this? Will it help me narrow down the proble of the "check flow"...(which works sometimes and other times not...in recirculation or in filter mode)

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: tri-Sensor Simulator (How to use?)

    A trisensor simulator isn't all that likely to help you resolve this problem. It will reveal if the error is in the main unit, but the odds of that being the problem are quite low.

    The trisensor simulator gets plugged into the main unit where the trisensor would normally plug in. It then has switches that allow you test to see if the main unit detects all of the various error conditions. It is designed for use by service techs, so you may well find it confusing.
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    Re: tri-Sensor Simulator (How to use?)

    Any tips on what I should look for once its plugged in

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: tri-Sensor Simulator (How to use?)

    The main thing to check is to make sure the main unit does not give check flow errors when the simulator is set to indicate that flow is present. If it does give check flow errors when the simulated tri-sensor is set to indicate flow is present, the main unit is broken and needs to be repaired.

    By the by, have you been checking the strainer built into the manifold when you are getting flow errors? It is easy to overlook that strainer (inside the first union on the manifold). If you have been checking it, then just ignore this, but if you have not that could well be your underlying problem.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: tri-Sensor Simulator (How to use?)

    Thanks. Will check it when it arrives. Flow is great so thinking must be tri sensor again.

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    Re: tri-Sensor Simulator (How to use?)

    You should get a good flow condition, 2400 ppm salt, and 78 degrees temperature. It will help determine if the problem lies in the power supply or the tri-sensor. is your trisensor a new style, in which the cord is permanently attached to the tri-sensor, or are they two separate components? If they are two components, check the connection points between the two. If the pins in the tri-sensor is/are bent, it can cause these issues.
    Other flow related issues, check your manifold screen. Ensure the cell is not scaled. Finally, locate the manifold base check valve and identify the red gasket on the inlet side of the check valve. With the pump on, you should see this move opened. Then turn the pump off and sesure that it closes fully when the pump is off. If it stays opened, it will allow too much water to bypass the upper portion of the manifold and give the low flow error. Also, check your pump and skimmer baskets and make sure the filter is clean.
    Sean Assam - Sean@teamhorner.com
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    Re: tri-Sensor Simulator (How to use?)

    so following the instructions of the "Tri-Sensor Simulator" ...the Water temp read 79 not 78. The Salt read 2200 but was flashing add salt as mine is set between 2800-3100ish. The flow was good allowing for the Salt Cell to work at either a % or on Boost. So with this information I'm reading that it is a tri-sensor issue and should be replaced.... thoughts? thanks

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    Re: tri-Sensor Simulator (How to use?)

    That's very possible. The Tri-sensor simulator determines if the problem lies in the power supply, or the tri-sensor itself or an actual flow/plumbing related issue.
    There are a few other areas to check on the manifold before determining that the tri-sensor is bad.
    - On the Manifold base there is a check valve where you should be able to see the RED Gasket on the inlet side of the check valve. When you turn the pump on and off, you should see the red gasket deflect. if it's stuck in the opened position, you may be getting too much water through the base and not enough through the top, where the flow switch is.
    - Is the Tri-sensor a two piece old style sensor? If so, make sure the pins in the connector are all straight and none are bent.
    -
    Sean Assam - Sean@teamhorner.com
    National Accounts and Commercial Products Manager
    AquaCal Heat Pumps www.aquacal.com
    AutoPilot Salt Chlorine Generators www.autopilot.com

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