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Thread: FIrst time TF100 results- HIgh FC

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    FIrst time TF100 results- HIgh FC

    I took the advice and purchased the TF100 test kit
    Here are the #
    FC 10
    CC .5
    TA 120
    CA 200
    PH 7.8
    CYA 100
    Salt 3200
    Was having trouble keeping chlorine in water before! Heat wave took pool to 90 degrees. pool store reading for CYA low so added 12lbs. still losing chlorine though. water got cloudy and I slammed pool without knowing actual numbers.
    Not sure what to do now. SWG on 70% output. Filter run time 9 hours. Water clear
    Thanks for any and all help
    42K, IG, Plaster,Hayward DE 6020 , Converted to Hayward SWG in June 2012

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    mikemass's Avatar
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    Re: FIrst time TF100 results- HIgh FC

    Looks like you over shot your CYA a bit with the 12lbs. I wonder how low it actually was, because you have a nice size pool there at 42k Gallons. It's fine, just going to have to keep your FC a little higher. Get the CC closer to 0.0 and I think as long as you staying clear, things are fine. Remember, the FC levels is a little less forgiving with the SWG.. reference in chlorine/CYA chart: pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

    FYI, you didn't provide a pH reading.
    25 + year pool owner. Current pool (going on 11th year) - 38K gallon in ground Gunite/White Plaster, Spillover Spa, Hayward Cartridge Filter, Hayward 450k BTU NG Heater, Hayward Goldline Aqua Logic control with T-Cell-15 Salt Water Cell, Dolphin Explorer.
    You Need: Bleach, a A Test Kit & a Bookmark to "Pool School". Now what's your question?

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    Re: FIrst time TF100 results- HIgh FC

    Have you passed all 3 of the requirements of the SLAM process? You have passed 2 of them with clear water, CC is .5 or less, but did you pass the OCLT?

    How long has it been since you SLAMmed the pool and what did you use to chlorinate it? To make sure the CYA is 100 and not too much above 100, do the test over with half the water added from the pool and the other half from the tap. You will then multiply the result by 2 to get the CYA value. It should read 50 if the CYA is close to 100.

    You will want to drain enough water to lower the CYA to 70-80 range and maintain the chlorine between 4-6 ppm, never below 4 ppm if the CYA is 80.

    You did not list the pH, but 7.5/7.8 range is preferred. If the pH rises too fast for you, we suggest to target the TA in the 60-80 range while using a SWG. The pH should be fairly accurate with the FC measuring 10, but it will start reading high when the FC is above 10. You will want to check your CSI with the Pool Calculator to make sure you are not too negative with the lower TA level since your calcium level is on the low end.

    Here is a link to the Pool Calculator if you haven't found it, http://www.poolcalculator.com/. Plug in all your values and the values you want to target and the calculator will tell you how much of each chemical to add.
    16k gal plaster with raised spa, Jandy DEV60 filter, 2 HP 2-speed SHPF Jandy Stealth pump
    Hayward Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG, Jandy LXi 400k BTU NG heater, 350 sq.ft. of Sun Star solar panels, TF-100 Test Kit, Dolphin s300i Cleaner
    Test Kits . Pool Math . Chlorine/CYA Chart . The SLAM Process

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    Re: FIrst time TF100 results- HIgh FC

    I was so anxious to get the accurate FC reading I bypassed ph test
    PH 7.8
    re did cya as suggested with 1/2 tap water and got @ 50 reading.
    slammed July 21 with 1 packet shock from pool store and 8 gallons regular bleach which is 5.25%
    42K, IG, Plaster,Hayward DE 6020 , Converted to Hayward SWG in June 2012

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    mikemass's Avatar
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    Re: FIrst time TF100 results- HIgh FC

    So you really have a CYA of 100.

    1. Stop adding any chlorine products that might contain CYA like tri- or dichlor... (I don't know what these "packet shock" packs are that you bought.

    2. If you don't want to have to go through the whole partial drain/refill at this point, just do lots of cannonballs close to side and top off ocassionally...

    But seriously, you need to get that CYA down eventually. If it were me at this point in the summer (depending on where you live), I would just make sure to keep the chlorine a little extra high (maybe maintain 7.0 ish with your SWG) and when you lower the water line for the winter, go a little lower than normal. Next season when you top off, hopefully it will have diluted your CYA enough.

    Mike
    25 + year pool owner. Current pool (going on 11th year) - 38K gallon in ground Gunite/White Plaster, Spillover Spa, Hayward Cartridge Filter, Hayward 450k BTU NG Heater, Hayward Goldline Aqua Logic control with T-Cell-15 Salt Water Cell, Dolphin Explorer.
    You Need: Bleach, a A Test Kit & a Bookmark to "Pool School". Now what's your question?

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    Re: FIrst time TF100 results- HIgh FC

    We are in NY. Always close pool @ middle September. So I don't have to worry about high FC ? It will just drop and I need to make sure it doesn't fall below 7?
    We had algae last year and started off again this season with some. Also have phosphates in water @1000ppm. Used one shock packet from leslies pool store.
    42K, IG, Plaster,Hayward DE 6020 , Converted to Hayward SWG in June 2012

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    Re: FIrst time TF100 results- HIgh FC

    With the CYA at 100, the FC is not high and is in the recommended range for a liquid chlorinated pool. Start reading in Pool School and you will learn all that we teach. Here is a link to the recommended ranges, pool-school/recommended_levels and a chlorine/CYA chart, pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock.
    16k gal plaster with raised spa, Jandy DEV60 filter, 2 HP 2-speed SHPF Jandy Stealth pump
    Hayward Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG, Jandy LXi 400k BTU NG heater, 350 sq.ft. of Sun Star solar panels, TF-100 Test Kit, Dolphin s300i Cleaner
    Test Kits . Pool Math . Chlorine/CYA Chart . The SLAM Process

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    mikemass's Avatar
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    Re: FIrst time TF100 results- HIgh FC

    Well. According to the Chlorine/CYA chart (link in my earlier post), if running a SWG and CYA of 80, you should have FC between 4-6. And for non-SWG pools, the 100 reading is 7-12. So that's why I said 7. Personally, based on my experience, I think if you even around 5.0 you will be fine. But play it safe. And NO. You do not have to worry about a high FC as long as you don't have a chlorine block (when CC gets into that 1.0 area and higher) which you don't.

    If you want to perform and see if you pass the OCLT test, go ahead and try. I'd say you are fine there.

    I am going to look up that Leslie's shock pack now and see if contains any CYA. Like I said, if it does. Stop using that. Will get back to you after I check.
    25 + year pool owner. Current pool (going on 11th year) - 38K gallon in ground Gunite/White Plaster, Spillover Spa, Hayward Cartridge Filter, Hayward 450k BTU NG Heater, Hayward Goldline Aqua Logic control with T-Cell-15 Salt Water Cell, Dolphin Explorer.
    You Need: Bleach, a A Test Kit & a Bookmark to "Pool School". Now what's your question?

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