algaecides

[engrav]

Greetings
from a newbie on Whidbey Island, WA State (not very hot) and pool rarely occupied

1) if pool is balanced and clear, do I need to use algaecides?

looked at BioGuard banish (1qt 39.99) and BioGuard inhibit (1qt 29.99)
both say toxic to fish and other aquatic organisms and other things like remove contaminated clothing and wash before use, etc etc

2) are these prices fair?

3) if I have no visible problem, why put this stuff in the water?

both say for initial application do this and that, for routine maintenance do this and that

4) if I have no visible problem, can I skip the initial directions and just go to the routine maintenance directions?

thank you

 

[JohnN]

1) No, if you maintain proper FC for your CYA level.
2) No idea, never used algecide, never plan to.
3) Only reason I can see if if you want to treat for metal stains, which require you to lower your FC. Other than that, the only reason is to lighten your wallet.
4) No need to use any.

 

[Donldson]

Greetings
from a newbie on Whidbey Island, WA State (not very hot) and pool rarely occupied

1) if pool is balanced and clear, do I need to use algaecides?
Nope

looked at BioGuard banish (1qt 39.99) and BioGuard inhibit (1qt 29.99)
both say toxic to fish and other aquatic organisms and other things like remove contaminated clothing and wash before use, etc etc

2) are these prices fair?
Technically no since you don't need them.

3) if I have no visible problem, why put this stuff in the water?
See answer to question one

both say for initial application do this and that, for routine maintenance do this and that

4) if I have no visible problem, can I skip the initial directions and just go to the routine maintenance directions?
See answer to question one

thank you

Now all of this is assuming you are keeping your pool properly balanced and chlorinated. What are you using to chlorinate and to test your water?

 

[engrav]

Greetings
from a newbie on Whidbey Island, WA State (not very hot) and pool rarely occupied

1) if pool is balanced and clear, do I need to use algaecides?
Nope

looked at BioGuard banish (1qt 39.99) and BioGuard inhibit (1qt 29.99)
both say toxic to fish and other aquatic organisms and other things like remove contaminated clothing and wash before use, etc etc

2) are these prices fair?
Technically no since you don't need them.

3) if I have no visible problem, why put this stuff in the water?
See answer to question one

both say for initial application do this and that, for routine maintenance do this and that

4) if I have no visible problem, can I skip the initial directions and just go to the routine maintenance directions?
See answer to question one

thank you

Now all of this is assuming you are keeping your pool properly balanced and chlorinated. What are you using to chlorinate and to test your water?

Thank you.
Rainbow chlorinator with 3" tabs, tube connected at the top. Taylor test kit K-2005.
free chlorine is 2-3, sometimes get to 5, then I reduce tabs or turn down the Rainbow
combined is always zero
alkalinity is about 80, pH seems stable at about 7.4 with alkalinity 80, if I drive alkalinity to 100 with bicarb pH rises, I then add acid, alkalinity falls and when it reaches about 80 things are stable again (is this CO? outgassing?, pool is 1000 years old so doubt it is new cement)

 

[Donldson]

Tablets huh? Out of curiosity any idea what your CYA (stabilizer) level is?

The alkalinity situation you mention is normal, you can let it sit around 80 so it doesn't raise your pH.

 

[engrav]

Tablets huh? Out of curiosity any idea what your CYA (stabilizer) level is?

The alkalinity situation you mention is normal, you can let it sit around 80 so it doesn't raise your pH.

Thank you, am tired of chasing rising pH and dinking with muriatic acid

as for CYA, I do test FC and pH and TA often but probably should test CY more often but I have these values
Sep 2012 80 CY
May 2013 65 CY

 

[Donldson]

You check this out: pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

You don't need algaecide if you properly chlorinate, but if you are not maintaining the minimum chlorine level for your CYA you can be at risk of algae.

 

[engrav]

You check this out: pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

You don't need algaecide if you properly chlorinate, but if you are not maintaining the minimum chlorine level for your CYA you can be at risk of algae.

thank you
I have been just letting the stabilizer come from the tabs
and if between 30 and 100 as per the Taylor web page, saying "is Ok"
but from the chart would seem CY 65 is high for the FC values
but with tabs not sure how to alter CY

 

[engrav]

You check this out: pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

You don't need algaecide if you properly chlorinate, but if you are not maintaining the minimum chlorine level for your CYA you can be at risk of algae.

thank you
I have been just letting the stabilizer come from the tabs
and if between 30 and 100 as per the Taylor web page, saying "is Ok"
but from the chart would seem CY 65 is high for the FC values
but with tabs not sure how to alter CY

will check CY tomorrow and return
thank you

 

[Donldson]

You check this out: pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

I forgot the "should" in there, I promise I wasn't trying to issue you an order!

have you ever used the pool calculator? calc.html Put in your pool size at the top and enter your current and target levels and it will tell you what to do to make adjustments.

Tablets will always add chlorine and CYA to your pool, most of us do not use them because of this. The only way to lower CYA is to replace water.

I know you have been around a little while, have you browsed the pool school recently? A lot of good information on keeping everything in check and making sure that you don't need to add extra (and overpriced) stuff such as algaecide and phosphate remover. It changed the way I cared for my pool, made it easier and much less expensive!

 

[techguy]

Realistically, if you keep your CYA between 30 and 50, you will have not major issues keeping your pool clear with bleach/liquid chlorine. When your CYA is over 70, for a liquid chlorinated pool, it can be difficult to resolve algae blooms. If you are using a SWG (salt water generator) the CYA range is higher, but blooms are harder to resolve if not addressed early.

If your CYA is over 100, plan on changing out enough water to get you back to the 30-50 range.

 

[engrav]

You check this out: pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

I forgot the "should" in there, I promise I wasn't trying to issue you an order!

have you ever used the pool calculator? calc.html Put in your pool size at the top and enter your current and target levels and it will tell you what to do to make adjustments.

Tablets will always add chlorine and CYA to your pool, most of us do not use them because of this. The only way to lower CYA is to replace water.

I know you have been around a little while, have you browsed the pool school recently? A lot of good information on keeping everything in check and making sure that you don't need to add extra (and overpriced) stuff such as algaecide and phosphate remover. It changed the way I cared for my pool, made it easier and much less expensive!

should? not a problem
pool calculator? have been using the one on the Taylor web page, will try the one above
tabs and CYA? will check CY tomorrow and return on this, maybe time for an adjustment
been around a while? Not. Bought the place in 8/2011 and pool was green and we could walk on it. Sand was dirty. Pump was busted. Chlorinator leaked. No automation. Etc. But now is clear and we swim in it so have moved to the finer points.

again will check CY tomorrow and return
thank you

 

[engrav]

You check this out: pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

I forgot the "should" in there, I promise I wasn't trying to issue you an order!

have you ever used the pool calculator? calc.html Put in your pool size at the top and enter your current and target levels and it will tell you what to do to make adjustments.

Tablets will always add chlorine and CYA to your pool, most of us do not use them because of this. The only way to lower CYA is to replace water.

I know you have been around a little while, have you browsed the pool school recently? A lot of good information on keeping everything in check and making sure that you don't need to add extra (and overpriced) stuff such as algaecide and phosphate remover. It changed the way I cared for my pool, made it easier and much less expensive!

forgot one thing, pool shape is very complex and all records are gone so can only estimate volume, say 25 to 30k

 

[Isaac-1]

If you know it is around 25-30K gallons, just pick a number to feed pool calculator, then when you try using the suggested amounts of chemicals, if you get less than the expected change the pool is larger, and if you get more than the expected change the pool is smaller.

 

[engrav]

If you know it is around 25-30K gallons, just pick a number to feed pool calculator, then when you try using the suggested amounts of chemicals, if you get less than the expected change the pool is larger, and if you get more than the expected change the pool is smaller.

good idea
next time I add something I will use the pool calculator and put in 100% of the recommended amount for a 25k pool

 

[Isaac-1]

What type of pool do you have, and how is your fill water? (it is best to add your ool info to your signature so everyone can see) also add your general location to your profile, it gives us information about your climate, typical pool season length, etc.

pool-school/read_before_you_post

Ike

 

[engrav]

What type of pool do you have, and how is your fill water? (it is best to add your ool info to your signature so everyone can see) also add your general location to your profile, it gives us information about your climate, typical pool season length, etc.

pool-school/read_before_you_post

Ike

thank you, I think done so should appear below this

 

[Isaac-1]

Ok, well if you have a plaster pool I would suggest using CH level adjustment for your size estimation (assuming you don't have very hard fill water) since CH can only be lowered by water replacement, and it usually takes a good bit of hardness increaser to make a small change in pool levels

 

[engrav]

Ok, well if you have a plaster pool I would suggest using CH level adjustment for your size estimation (assuming you don't have very hard fill water) since CH can only be lowered by water replacement, and it usually takes a good bit of hardness increaser to make a small change in pool levels

I guess have wandered off algaecide topic which was answered. Several recommended not routinely. But you all solved that and I now have stuff in the sig so progress.

Tomorrow will get the whole battery on pool and fill water and move to another section.

Thank you.

 

[chem geek]

For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm. So if you have 2 ppm FC per day chlorine usage, then the CYA will rise by 36 ppm per month if you have no water dilution. So when using Trichlor, you need to watch your CYA level and raise your FC proportionately to prevent algae growth and eventually dilute the water to lower the CYA level as needed. Or you can spend more by using algaecides to prevent algae growth when the FC/CYA ratio gets too low. Since you apparently want to avoid having to add acid, you could do a hybrid of using some Trichlor with some separate dosing in the pool of chlorinating liquid or bleach. That should keep the pH stable and have a lower rate of CYA increase.