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Thread: Draining Question (because of leak)

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    Draining Question (because of leak)

    I have a 15'x48" Intex pool with a 56671eg Sand Filter (2650gph). At the beginning of the season I used the method discussed in other threads that told me how to use an overlapping liner inside of the original intex liner in order to avoid buying a brand new intex liner.

    Now, I have a leak -- which I thought was in the intake/return holes I cut. But then as I let the water level drop, it dropped....and dropped.....and dropped. So needless to say, as the days wore on without being able to run my pump, I now have a GREEN MESS. Not to mention I have no idea where the leak is. I have a lot of issues here, but let's start at square one:

    -- What's the easiest/cheapest way to drain my pool? (Reminder, i have no drain hole because of the overlapping liner.) With the water below the intake, it's nearly impossible to keep the pump primed by hooking a hose up to it. Is it possible to use my sand filter? Or is it absolutely necessary for me to buy a sump pump?

    SIDE NOTE: I need to have this up & running again in 2 weeks for my little girl's birthday pool party.

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Draining Question (because of leak)

    I would continue to let the pool leak until the water stops dropping, your leak will be at that level. Once you find it you can just use a pool vinyl patch kit to fix it.

    Since you pool is not too big, the easiest way to drain is to use a hose as a siphon. Submerge the hose under the water removing all the air in it, then seal one end under the water with your hand and bring that hose end out of the water and lower than the surface, then remove you hand and you should be siphoning.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Draining Question (because of leak)

    Ok thanks so much! Will do. I do have a follow up question(s) then.....

    Once I find the leak, is there any alternative sealant to the generic patch kits you find at Walmart? For example, has anyone used anything like FlexSeal or any other under water adhesive that works well? The reason I ask is because if the hole is in a seam, it can be nearly impossible to fix with a normal patch.

    Second, as I clean the pool and scrub down the walls. Once I start filling it again, I'll probably let the water set for a couple of days to see if we got the leak. However, with it being below the intake/return valves, I'm afraid I'll start getting algae again. Is it ok to treat the pool according to the BBB even if you can't cycle the water?

    Thanks!

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Draining Question (because of leak)

    Not sure about alternate patch methods, but you are right the seams can be troublesome. I would wait to see where yours is, then you can post again if it is on a seam and get some advice.

    If you want to chlorinate without the pump then you need to stir in the chlorine for awhile after adding it. A pool brush is one good way to do this.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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