Bright blue, cloudy pool and how i should clear it?

Jul 16, 2013
25
Winchester, KY
Hey guys, this is my first thread here and after reading sooooo many stories of others on this site over the last few days, im really looking forward to the advice you all can give me.

So my parents own an in ground pool, the one listed in my sig, and for years they have used trichlor pucks and "shock" bags to try to keep the pool clear. They also used algecide and clairifier when trying to clean a green pool. I cant remember a single year really, when i was growing up that the water was completely clear from more than just a few weeks out of the season. It didn't always get an algae bloom and go green but it was almost always slightly cloudy. Well they went on a trip to Alaska and few weeks ago and asked me to watch the pool in that time. I had never maintained it before so they gave me the run down on their method, keep 2 pucks in the skimmer and if it starts turn green, use 1 or 2 bags of "shock" and a bottle of algecide. Long story short, that didn't work. After the pool turned cloudy green, i began doing research and luckily found this site. I read everything in pool school in just a few hours and went through thread after thread absorbing useful information. I've been enjoying every bit of reading I've done here as well.

*Takes Breath*

So now to the point. I began slamming the pool according to what I've read in pool school. I didnt have a proper test so I got a test done from our pool store in town, they used a test strip. I was skeptical to use those numbers but didnt have much of a choice at the time. So i talked my parents into ordering a TF50, they didnt want to spend the extra money on the TF100 and they already had an OTO test kit for chlorine and ph. But while waiting for that kit to arive, i began raising the FC to between 12 and 13ppm because i was told my CYA was at 30 by the pool store. I stayed on top of the chlorine, by using 10% liquid chlorine, and kept the FC level, at what was only my best guess of 12 or 13. I measured using an OTO test and test strips, and used 50% diluted pool water and just multiplied those results by two. And i used both test just to double check the accuracy. In about 24 hours, and about 10 gallons of bleach, the pool had gone from green to light blue (still extremely cloudy though, couldnt see more than a foot into the water) over night. And over the next two days Ive only had to use about 6 more gallons to maintain shock level. But now that the pool is blue, the cloudyness seems like it might be going away, but if is has changed any, its been very little the last two days.

Now today, which is day 4 of this, my TF50 came in, felt like christmas in July. Tested my water and here are the results.

FC 19
CC 1
TC 20
PH 7.2 (i think. Im not ever good at judging the color of the ph test.)
TA 120
CH 120
CYA 21

What would you say the Ph is?

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Needless to say, im in the process of letting my FC come down to the shock level for cya of 21. Also, yesterday i took another sample of water to a pool store the next town over and had them test it. They use a drop test that analyzes it with a computer and here were their results from yesterday.

FC 7.88
TC 7.88
CC 0
PH 7.8
TA 89
CH 122
CYA 21

A few things are different in my test and the pool stores, But there was about 24 hours between their test and mine. So i guess in a pinch I can feel a little better about going to them for a test since the only difference we really had was in TA.

But do you all have any advice for me to use? Any idea, based on what ive said, about how long it might take to start seeing a clearer pool? Im brushing it once a day and backwashing as needed. I backwashed before i started slamming and the water really didnt look too bad. I did it again about 2 days later and the water that time looked so dark and cruddy. So i guess im actually doing something right.

Thanks in advance for the advice that anyone is willing to give me!!!!
 
Sand filters will take a while to "clear" the water. Keep the pump running 24/7 till it clears, backwash it if needed. Patience! You might want to bump that cya level up to 30 to slow down the chlorine burn off daily and raise your minimum level for it if it's in mostly sun all day. I votw 7.3 or 4 on your PH picture. Hard to tell if it's inside lighting.
 
Welcome to the forum. :lol:

Excellent first post. You provided very pertinent information. You have grasped very quickly what we teach and you are on your way to a clear pool.

The slow process from cloudy blue to crystal is maddening for many. I believe it has a lot to do with filtration capacity. That filter is really a bit too small for a 26k pool and is likely slowing your clearing process.

Have you seen the suggestion for adding DE to the filter? If not, post back and we'll explain. That might be valuable in your particular case.

I would call your pH 7.6
 
Should I bump the cya while I'm slamming? I had planned to raise it to 30 after I was done, but if I should raise it now, could I use some of the extra bags of triclohr "shock" that my parents still have laying around?

And yes I have heard of adding DE to the filter. Ive been reading a lot on that as well, and actual just had our pool store order some so I could give it a shot. BTW, I think it would be helpful to update the section in Pool School about adding DE to the sand filters. I think it would be nice if it specifically said that you should use pool grade DE. I see that is says not to use gardening DE, but there is also food grade DE, and we actually have much of that at my house so I had to stop myself from going out and using it.
 
JohnN said:
Try taking a picture of your pH test held up to the sun with a white paper background. Just to add to the confusion, to me the pH looks like 7.2

Ill get a better picture of it tomorrow. I took that picture inside because it started pouring the rain here while I was playing with my shiny new test kit. Hopefully that will help bring the FC down some as well.

wmorge said:
Hi Punkbuddy, Here is my 2 cents.. With just finishing up a month long slam process a week ago. Use the D.E!!! I went like 2 weeks without any change in my cloudy blue water until I used the D.E. my water quickly cleaned up after that. Best of luck!

Thanks. I like hearing from people that have tried these things first hand, and had positive results. It give me more confidence.
 

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jblizzle said:
Try adding either one less or one more drop in the pH test and see if that heps ID the color.

The extra drop will not change the color (hue) just the how dark the color is (saturation)... Thanks to ChemGeek and DuraLeigh, I know this.
This applies to both the OTO and pH tests.
 
With this TF50 test kit, is there a bit of a learning curve to getting it right? Using the FAS-DPD for test for FC im getting slightly different readings. I just tested the FC to see if it had come down from the 19ppm that it was at this afternoon. I tested it 3 times. The first time i got 14.5 I think. I started talking and forgot to write down the number so i tested again, and that time i got 10. So I tested one last time to verify the number, but I got 12 this time. All three of these tests took place in about 10 minutes.
 
Try adding a second scoop of the powder. If you run out of the powders effects during testing, you will get low readings. If you know/expect your FC is high (like 20 is) you need to add a second scoop.

You cannot have too much powder, you are looking for the reaction, pink/clear
 
My FC has come down now. Its at 9 right now so Ill raise that back up to 11 as suggested by the pool calculator for a pool with cya 20. Im not going to worry about raising they cya just yet because although my FC went from 19 to 9 in just a day, I think that was mostly because we had a hard rain for a while yesterday, so i dont think it was the sun using it up. I tested my FC last night around 11pm and it was at 10 or 11 maybe (still getting the hang of this test kit, but Im more consistent tests now) and this morning around 10:30 it was 9. I raised the FC back up to 11 and just tested it at 3pm and its at 9 again. My CC is 0 however. So I think most of that FC loss was from the sun since its very bright today. So like i said, I might just wait to raise the CYA until after Im done SLAMing, because I would like to just buy some stabelizer and oly raise the CYA rather than have to adjust my FC and PH with the bags of trichlor we have left over from before we switched to BBB. By the way, does walmart accept returns on pool chemicals if they haven't been opened? We have a 60 dollar tub of trichlor pucks and that money could be spent elsewhere *cough* my birthday coming up *cough*.

Also my CH is 110 so should that be raised or just left alone? Its lower that what the instruction sheet with my test kit says is the suggested range, but ive seen other posts saying that in a vinyl pool, low CH doenst mean a thing really but its high CH that will give issues.

And one last question for right now, can anyone explain how aerating raises the PH levels? Aeration is achieved by having the water splash back into the pool, or something like that, right? Just curious how splashing can do the same thing that a chemical reaction from borax or soda ash does.


Thanks all the suggestions and answers everyone!
 
No idea about the return.
And OCLT will let you know if the FC loss is the sun or somthing in the pool.
low CH does not matter for vinyl pool.
The aeration allows carbon dioxide out-gassing with raises the pH (I can not explain the WHY though ;) )
 
I have a question about clairifyers and flocculants. If I was passing the oclt and my CC was under .5, basically I'm just waiting on the filter to do its job so would there be any harm in using either of those products to speed the process of clearing a pool?

I'm still waiting for the DE I ordered to come in so I can add it to my filter. So that's why I'm wondering if there is anything to help clear the cloudiness while I wait for the DE.
 
The problem is that sometimes they help and sometimes they make everything worse, so we do not generally recommend them. Your filter should be able to handle it, especially with a little DE added.
 

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