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Thread: new owner

  1. Back To Top    #1
    jameslvuk
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    new owner

    Just buy a house that has a "beautiful" green pool. I live in Vancouver, new to the pool but have done some research about clean the maintain the pool. But the house will be left empty over the winter until spring. My question is shall I start to the turning green to blue process now or leave it until I come back?
    Also how long should I keep the pump/filter running daily? Can I turn it off if I am away? The filter is Haward sand filter, it seems quite costly the electricity if keeping running all day.

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    Charlie_R's Avatar
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    Re: new owner

    If you are going to be there for several months, and have the time to work with it, I'd go ahead an clean it up. When you return, you can open it with much less work.
    15'x48" 4500 gallon Intex pool, buried 1.5 ft. Pac-Fab Dynamo 3/4 hp pump. Hayward S180T sand filter, bought used. Taylor K-2006 test kit. Rocket mass heater based wood fired pool heater.

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    y_not's Avatar
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    Re: new owner

    You definitely need to read up on the SLAM process in Pool School, see link in my sig.
    Also read PS (PoolShool), lots, then read some more... when you're tired, walk away, chew on it... then come back and read some more.
    See other link in my sig for our recommended test kits and purchase yourself one of those.
    The TF100 is the best bang for the buck, yeah, it's a little bit more but it has a much better carrying case, you can fit things like a "speed stir" in it, which you'll really want sooner than later and the reagents are a better value, being more for your money because they're larger bottles.

    Once you get your kit and test the water, start SLAMing that bad boy!

    The longer it sits, the worse it gets and the more work, time and money it'll take when you do finally start it.

    Post here as you go along and we'll help you. But we can't do much without a proper test kit.

    EDIT: The pump should run 24/7 while you're SLAMing the pool. Once you get it all cleared up and you finish the SLAM process, then you can settle into a nice rhythm of just running your pump the minimum amount needed to keep your pool properly filtered so it's clean & clear & stays that way with daily testing & occasional maintenance. Once you learn the "rhythm" of your pool, you'll be able to gauge things more easily and have to test less often and simply be down to just adding CL+MA on a regular schedule. Just like a pet.
    I highly suggest cleaning your sand filter before you get started. That is.. assuming you have a sand filter. See my sig for instructions on this. It's quite important, otherwise it won't filter at its peak efficiency or in some cases, which isn't rare, filter very poorly, hindering your progress and speed.
    I would also look @ the article in PS on adding DE to your sand filter so you understand how that works, so you can be prepared for it by having it on hand. Again, it speeds the filtration process up which is nearly the longest part in many "swamps".
    I highly recommend cellulose powder over DE, for many reasons. Home Depot has a GREAT deal on a 3lb bag of the stuff, free shipping to any store. *See link.
    how-much-water-should-i-drain-t64974-20.html#p541198

    Before you start all this, definitely post test results so we can point you down the right and best path for your pool and your pocketbook.
    Cheers!
    Thanks for reading... - Tony
    Da' Pool: Intex 15'x42" 3284gal AGP EasySet (Inflatable Ring) - (Summer 2014: 27' round EW /w 6.5' deep end @ 22,500gal)
    Pump & Cart Mod: 1000gph Cart. 5ft² - 2 nylons, 24/7 OP. Traps bugs/bits, lasts longer/cleans easier = Happier Pool Owner!!
    The Bible for a "Trouble Free Pool" life = PoolSchool, the BBB method a TF100 test kit(Recommend Kits Compared). - Cleaning a Sand Filter
    Water looks like GLASS, if yours doesn't...SLAM IT! Feels nice and never been happier!!! :D

  4. Back To Top    #4

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    Re: new owner

    Since you are in Canada, it will be more difficult (and expensive) to get a good test kit. I know someone around here just posted saying that they may be able to help Canadians get a one, I will see if I can find it.
    John
    7 year old ~13,500 gal 24' AGP with 1.5 hp Proline pump, 150 sqft Pleatco cartridge, filled with well water with pH of about 4.5.
    Wanda the Whale pool vacuum, home made heater, Taylor K-2006
    Cloudy Pool? 1) Order test kit. 2) Follow SLAM
    New to TFPC? Read Pool School a few times, then post questions. PoolMath will help with chemical additions.

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    Charlie_R's Avatar
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    Re: new owner

    Link to the thread JohnN was talking about -- finally-got-it-t66366.html
    15'x48" 4500 gallon Intex pool, buried 1.5 ft. Pac-Fab Dynamo 3/4 hp pump. Hayward S180T sand filter, bought used. Taylor K-2006 test kit. Rocket mass heater based wood fired pool heater.

  6. Back To Top    #6
    jameslvuk
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    Re: new owner

    Thanks. Will try to get the test kit. And post the result once available. Another question is that this forum seems not recommend using of any algaecide. While I saw from some YouTube video that it can be quite helpful for the turning green to blue stage.

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    duraleigh's Avatar
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    Re: new owner

    While I saw from some YouTube video that it can be quite helpful for the turning green to blue stage.
    Not really. Actually, somewhat the opposite. Algaecide can be effective prevention, but once algae has a foothold, nothing does as well as chlorine to get it green to blue.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  8. Back To Top    #8
    linen's Avatar
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    Re: new owner

    Welcome to tfp, jameslvuk

    Algaecide can be a good way to separate you from your money when turning a green pool clear

    Have you looked at this pool school article yet?: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...efeating_algae
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  9. Back To Top    #9
    jameslvuk
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    Re: new owner

    Am I allowed to mention the brand name here? Whatever, I heard one algaecide "yellow trine" from YouTube. It seems have a good name for defeating algaecide.
    Do not know what it is based?
    Edit: it only take 20bucks and seems needs few Ozs to work.

  10. Back To Top    #10
    Charlie_R's Avatar
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    Re: new owner

    http://www.poolwater.com/msds/all/Appli ... wtrine.pdf

    Not sure I'd want that in my chlorine pool.
    15'x48" 4500 gallon Intex pool, buried 1.5 ft. Pac-Fab Dynamo 3/4 hp pump. Hayward S180T sand filter, bought used. Taylor K-2006 test kit. Rocket mass heater based wood fired pool heater.

  11. Back To Top    #11
    jameslvuk
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    Re: new owner

    So it's sodium based

  12. Back To Top    #12
    Charlie_R's Avatar
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    Re: new owner

    Bromine based. with who knows what else in it, due to "proprietary mixture". Anytime a pool chemical company hides behind that, you can be sure the "other ingredients" are things you don't want to be swimming in.

    That is the whole point of the BBB method. Knowing what your pool needs and not adding unnecessary/unknown chemicals to your pool.
    15'x48" 4500 gallon Intex pool, buried 1.5 ft. Pac-Fab Dynamo 3/4 hp pump. Hayward S180T sand filter, bought used. Taylor K-2006 test kit. Rocket mass heater based wood fired pool heater.

  13. Back To Top    #13
    jameslvuk
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    Re: new owner

    understood, thanks.
    I suppose that using algaecide may speed up the process and just for one time use. Am I wrong?
    Will post the test result after I get the test kit.

    Thanks for your help guys

  14. Back To Top    #14
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: new owner

    Algaecide is better at helping to prevent algae than it is at clearing it out. Stick with liquid chlorine, it is usually the cheapest option.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  15. Back To Top    #15
    techguy's Avatar
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    Re: new owner

    The biggest challenge with using something...one time.... that you don't know what's in it can have lasting effect that are hard to resolve. One example are products that have copper. Once you get too much copper, you can have staining or green water. This is common with "algaecides".

    This product is full of bromine that conflict with your chlorine and is difficult to get rid of. You would have now have a bromine pool.
    -- Guy --
    10K gallons in 21' Round 52 inch wall Aqualeader AG, Hayward Power Flow LX 1.5 HP pump motor, Hayward Perflex EC50AC DE filter w/Cellulose, Wide mouth skimmer, 2013 new Diver Dan (craigslist) to replace the faded old Hayward AquaBug. TF-100

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