Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 19 of 19

Thread: SLAM questions

  1. Back To Top    #1

    SLAM questions

    A little background, a few weeks ago my pool turned the dreaded green. At that time I was relying on my pool store to help. So, I kept putting in pound after pound of the shock material I bought from them. It appeared as if all was dead. but the pool was not clearing up. They had me floc it which made the water crystal, for a couple of days. Then, the pH jumped and the water became cloudy. The next day, the green returned.

    I found this site and decided to try to do it myself, based on the SLAM process. Since I did not have bleach yet and wanted to get a jump start, I dumped in a lot of the shock (5 lbs on Sunday morning, another 4 on Sunday night, and 5 more on Monday) without measuring chlorine. Normally this much would add about 28 ppm to my pool. Monday after my wife bought the bleach, the green was gone, replaced with the milky white of dead algae and the FC was only 10. (I was at work at the time.) I had them add bleach to get it to shock level (about FC=18 based on CYA=14). We kept it there all week (brushing sides and vacuuming) until finally we got CC=0 and overnight FC drop was negligible. The water had cleared up a bunch, but was still cloudy.

    So, here we are now. Water is still cloudy, but much better. We can actually see the pool's main drain, but it is still hazy. My questions:

    1. Should I still be maintaining shock levels of chlorine at this point, or can I let it come down to normal level?
    2. When can we use the pool? Do we need to wait for the water to clear up? My kids ask ever day if they can swim. Is there anything I can do to speed up this portion of the process?
    3. We had a bunch of thunderstorms yesterday. When I measured the FC levels, it had dropped significantly during the day. We still had some FC left, but not much. I added bleach to bring it up to normal FC level (FC=8). Could the rain bring down my FC level or do I still have a problem? Do I need to bring it back to shock level?
    4. Not exactly algae, but my pool pH tends to go high. I am adding acid on a regular basis (nearly ever other day) to keep it down. What can be causing this?

    Thanks all for your help in advance.

    Brian
    IG ~27000 gal; sand filter; SE Texas; fiberglass: very old pool; Hayward pump 1 HP (I think)

  2. Back To Top    #2

    In the Industry

    duraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sebring, Florida
    Posts
    30,084

    Re: SLAM questions

    Welcome to the forum.

    1. Yes, you should still be at shock value. You can stop the process when....

    1. Your pool water is sparkling
    2. Your CC's are .5ppm or less
    3. You can hold your FC overnight without losing more than 1ppm.

    2. You can swim any time you like in FC values up to shock level.

    3. Rain has less affect on pools than most people think.

    4. You need to post a complete set of test results for us to comment accurately on your pool water chemistry.

    How did you get a CYA = 14 ppm? None of the dependable tests go that low.

    Depending on what was in the "Shock" you dumped in, that may be contributing to your cloudiness. Done is done but you really should test and dose more carefully to be a BBB'r.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  3. Back To Top    #3
    Charlie_R's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Mexico, MO
    Posts
    2,156

    Re: SLAM questions

    Do you have your own test kit? Or are you relying on the PS for your testing? Where did you get the CYA of 14?

    If your pool is still cloudy, you have not passed the OCLT.

    What was in the "shock" product you were using?

    1. yes

    2. when you can CLEARLY see all of the bottom of the pool

    3. bring it back to shock level

    4. What is your TA and CH?

    Please post valid test results, NOT from pool store or test strips.

    Edit -- Looks like we both posted simultaneously, with essentially the same advice......
    15'x48" 4500 gallon Intex pool, buried 1.5 ft. Pac-Fab Dynamo 3/4 hp pump. Hayward S180T sand filter, bought used. Taylor K-2006 test kit. Rocket mass heater based wood fired pool heater.

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    1,079

    Re: SLAM questions

    Keep SLAMing your pool until you pass all 3 of the tests outlined in the SLAM process.

    Do you know what the chemical composition of the "shock" was?

    Could you post a full set of test numbers? That will do the most to help us assist and to discern what effect the bags of "shock" had on your chemistry. Depending on the contents of the shock bags you may have an even higher target FC for SLAMing.


    TFP Moderator Chris V. ~16K Pool & Spa, 48NSF DE, IG Plaster Circa 2000, Intermatic PE653, Challenger pump with a 2 speed B2984, 20gal stenner chlorine injection, Houston, TX
    One cannot follow Islam and Christianity at the same time, nor can one follow pool store methods and TFP at the same time.
    Pool School -- Pool Math -- TF-Test Kit

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    1,079

    Re: SLAM questions

    Chuckle. 3 posts with basically the same advice less than 10 min from the OP at 6am. There are major software companies that would
    KILL for that kind of tech support.


    TFP Moderator Chris V. ~16K Pool & Spa, 48NSF DE, IG Plaster Circa 2000, Intermatic PE653, Challenger pump with a 2 speed B2984, 20gal stenner chlorine injection, Houston, TX
    One cannot follow Islam and Christianity at the same time, nor can one follow pool store methods and TFP at the same time.
    Pool School -- Pool Math -- TF-Test Kit

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Re: SLAM questions

    Cya was 45. It was a misprint on my part. I have a Taylor kit, I think k-2005.

    The shock product was a 65% available chlorine dichlor product. I used that last week Sunday and Monday morning. Used bleach the rest of the week to keep it at 18 ppm.

    We will increase it back to 18 ppm until we get clear water.

    I will post other numbers later today when I can test them. TA has always been around 100-120 and CH generally at 120-130. I will confirm these later by testing. I will also recheck CYA if I have enough reagent left.

    Thanks for the quick responses. I figured I could count on all of you here for some good fast advice.

    Brian
    IG ~27000 gal; sand filter; SE Texas; fiberglass: very old pool; Hayward pump 1 HP (I think)

  7. Back To Top    #7
    Isaac-1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    SW Louisiana
    Posts
    6,711

    Re: SLAM questions

    Something sounds wrong here, in your size pool every 10 pounds of dichlor will raise CYA by 22 ppm, so far you have mentioned adding at least 15 pounds, and said this was after the pool store had you add, pound after pound.
    Indoor 20x40 35,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump, Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter, 11 4x12 Techno-Solis solar panels w/ Aquasolar controller, Aquabot Turbo T Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and HotSpring Jetsetter
    I use and endorse TFtestKits TF-100 from http://tftestkits.net
    ~Remember TFP counts on your donations to keep this site ad free~

  8. Back To Top    #8

    In the Industry

    Donldson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    NW Ohio
    Posts
    2,637

    Re: SLAM questions

    Isaac-1 is right, if you just added dichlor this weekend the effects probably wouldn't have shown up yet on the test and you may have a level more along the lines of 70. If so your shock level is more like 28 than 18, which would be slowing the process up. You are going to want to get more reagent if you need it, you need to recheck it your level for sure.
    JD - 28' Round Above Ground Pool, 17,000 Gallons. Dual speed Jacuzzi pump with cartridge filter. Dual speed 1 HP pump, Hayward S210T sand filter
    Pool School - PoolMath - HIGHLY Recommended Test Kits

  9. Back To Top    #9
    techguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Antelope, CA
    Posts
    2,687

    Re: SLAM questions

    Right after adding CYA and for about a week, it won't appear in testing but it will effect your chlorine balance. Since you added so much stabilized chlorine you added that much stabilizer. For your shock levels, you need to use the higher FC targets or replace some of the water with fresh, clean fill water.
    -- Guy --
    10K gallons in 21' Round 52 inch wall Aqualeader AG, Hayward Power Flow LX 1.5 HP pump motor, Hayward Perflex EC50AC DE filter w/Cellulose, Wide mouth skimmer, 2013 new Diver Dan (craigslist) to replace the faded old Hayward AquaBug. TF-100

  10. Back To Top    #10

    Re: SLAM questions

    I need to get my facts straight. There were some old containers of dichlor around, but my shock is calcium hypo. That is what I had added.

    Also, it was not last weekend when I added the shock product, it was the weekend before last.

    My wife is trying the cya test. I also am going to pick up more reagent. I think I am going to get a better Cl test as well. Mine is not great for Cl > 5 ppm.

    I will post all test results later.

    Again, thanks for the help so far.
    IG ~27000 gal; sand filter; SE Texas; fiberglass: very old pool; Hayward pump 1 HP (I think)

  11. Back To Top    #11
    techguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Antelope, CA
    Posts
    2,687

    Re: SLAM questions

    You may find the TF100 to be more cost effective than buying CYA reagent and a stand alone DPDFAS test. The TF kit includes a larger amount of reagent than most other brands kits.

    If you were using a CalHypo shock, your CYA sounds like it may be OK, or at least better than feared. When you are doing the CYA, you can fill the tube, make a reading and then pour it back into the slacker and repeat the test as many times as you want, with as many people reading the test as you desire. I normally pour it back and forth 2-4 times. Until I get a consistent reading.
    -- Guy --
    10K gallons in 21' Round 52 inch wall Aqualeader AG, Hayward Power Flow LX 1.5 HP pump motor, Hayward Perflex EC50AC DE filter w/Cellulose, Wide mouth skimmer, 2013 new Diver Dan (craigslist) to replace the faded old Hayward AquaBug. TF-100

  12. Back To Top    #12

    In the Industry

    Donldson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    NW Ohio
    Posts
    2,637

    Re: SLAM questions

    Caught in your own web of lies Let that be a lesson

    Yes, if you were adding cal-hypo then it's not as dire as if it was Dichlor. Running another CYA test is a good idea either way, make sure you are SLAMing at the right level.

    So should I assume your CL test is OTO, as in "50 shades of yellow"? If yes you want an FAS/DPD test.
    JD - 28' Round Above Ground Pool, 17,000 Gallons. Dual speed Jacuzzi pump with cartridge filter. Dual speed 1 HP pump, Hayward S210T sand filter
    Pool School - PoolMath - HIGHLY Recommended Test Kits

  13. Back To Top    #13

    Re: SLAM questions

    My wife says cya is less than 30 (the lowest mark on the tester). But there is some because the test solution is cloudy just not enough to "cover the dot".

    I ordered the tf100 kit. As suggested, it looks more economical than buying the stand alone fas-dpd test.

    I will keep bleach at shock level at least until I get the new test kit.

    Just to confirm, we can swim even with it being a little cloudy without upsetting the SLAM process?

    Once again, thanks.
    IG ~27000 gal; sand filter; SE Texas; fiberglass: very old pool; Hayward pump 1 HP (I think)

  14. Back To Top    #14
    Butterfly's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    10,045

    Re: SLAM questions

    You can swim up to normal shock level, as long as the water is clear enough to see swimmers underwater. Swimming during the SLAM process will just slow it down a little. Rinse off before and after the swim.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  15. Back To Top    #15
    techguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Antelope, CA
    Posts
    2,687

    Re: SLAM questions

    I say swim and keep up your passion for the pool. It will only motivate you as you see it get better looking during the slam process.

    As stated, it's safe to swim up to shock levels for your CYA. Your new kit will allow you to measure down to 20 CYA but for now, assume you have 30PPM for your SLAM targets.
    -- Guy --
    10K gallons in 21' Round 52 inch wall Aqualeader AG, Hayward Power Flow LX 1.5 HP pump motor, Hayward Perflex EC50AC DE filter w/Cellulose, Wide mouth skimmer, 2013 new Diver Dan (craigslist) to replace the faded old Hayward AquaBug. TF-100

  16. Back To Top    #16
    Isaac-1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    SW Louisiana
    Posts
    6,711

    Re: SLAM questions

    Note lighting conditions are critical for good readings on the CYA test, it should be done outdoors in sunlight with the sun to your back, and view tube held at waist level.
    Indoor 20x40 35,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump, Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter, 11 4x12 Techno-Solis solar panels w/ Aquasolar controller, Aquabot Turbo T Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and HotSpring Jetsetter
    I use and endorse TFtestKits TF-100 from http://tftestkits.net
    ~Remember TFP counts on your donations to keep this site ad free~

  17. Back To Top    #17

    Re: SLAM questions

    Again, thanks for the help. Here is my current full results.

    FC ~20
    CC ~0
    pH 8
    TA 90
    CH 130
    CYA <30 (but there is some)

    I should have my new kit tomorrow and can get more precise Cl measurements.

    I can't seem to keep my pH down. But, I do know that bleach is a base, so adding it is part of the reason for the high pH.

    Gonna keep SLAMing until I pass all three tests. Any other advice at this point?
    IG ~27000 gal; sand filter; SE Texas; fiberglass: very old pool; Hayward pump 1 HP (I think)

  18. Back To Top    #18

    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    1,079

    Re: SLAM questions

    Spot on, keep SLAMing. Keep in mind that your pH is probably not 8. The test is not accurate when the FC is in SLAM range. Adjust your pH after the pool comes back out of SLAM if it needs it.
    TFP Moderator Chris V. ~16K Pool & Spa, 48NSF DE, IG Plaster Circa 2000, Intermatic PE653, Challenger pump with a 2 speed B2984, 20gal stenner chlorine injection, Houston, TX
    One cannot follow Islam and Christianity at the same time, nor can one follow pool store methods and TFP at the same time.
    Pool School -- Pool Math -- TF-Test Kit

  19. Back To Top    #19
    Isaac-1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    SW Louisiana
    Posts
    6,711

    Re: SLAM questions

    pH readings will likely be showing a false high reading anytime FC is above 10, our general advice is to ignore pH testing when at shock levels over 10 ppm
    Indoor 20x40 35,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump, Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter, 11 4x12 Techno-Solis solar panels w/ Aquasolar controller, Aquabot Turbo T Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and HotSpring Jetsetter
    I use and endorse TFtestKits TF-100 from http://tftestkits.net
    ~Remember TFP counts on your donations to keep this site ad free~

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •