NL100 driving me nuts

Jul 14, 2013
5
Hi. New member here. I've learned a lot by reading this site. I have a 28' aboveground pool(2009), and after the first year, I found the old pool forum site and switched to BBB and never looked back. I find as long as I run my filter 16 hours/day, I stay trouble free. My problem is with night swimming. The pool dealer sold me a 50W in-wall light. I think it's sta-rite or something. It's always worked fine, but I want it a bit(a lot?) brighter. I ended up buying a SmartPool NL100 nightlighter and put it on the pool wall opposite the 50W light. The lighting is perfect. The only issue is, the light has always turned off anywhere from 8 to 30 minutes after poweron and requires about 8 minutes before it will turn back on. I've troubleshot this thing extensively and SmartPool was willing but not ultimately much help. They even sent me a light they tested for the full 3 hour cycle. Still no dice.

I'm almost positive it's not thermal or water leakage related, after multiple tests. I'm convinced it's this "fuse protection circuitry" the light has. Question: Since the other light works fine, and overall, my house(1990) has no known electrical issues, what might cause this light to reset? I assume the fuse protection is just protecting the fuse against a spike/short because the fuse is not serviceable, but it seems awfully touchy if that's the case. Anyone else have an NL100? Options for aboveground pools are limited if you don't want another hole in your pool wall. Floating lights aren't powerful enough, and since my 50W light is right near my return, I really want a light I can put on the opposite side for better coverage, so that rules out return lghts. Sorry for the book...
 
It's actually the third. Yes, it's at the correct water depth. I've tested in a pickle bucket as well at different outlets at my house as well as at my work. At my work, it goes the full cycle, but not at my house. Sometimes i'll get 40 minutes, but usually it's like 10 minutes and then it shuts off. the transformer is not getting any hotter than when it was at my work and I've made sure water is not getting in the light fixture, so that leaves me with this fuse protection logic. Somehow, the electricity at my house makes this thing jumpy. Can't understand it though.
 
I don't have any other known electrical problems. :) I do have a line conditioner I use for my band. Maybe i'll plug the light into it to see if it passes the test. The light, as you know, is compeltely sealed and impossible to get a reading on without modifying it a bit. I'd love to see what's going on with the amperage when the light shuts off. At least that might give me a clue. Thanks for the help. This one might not get solved i'm afraid. I may have to buy a Pentair aqualuminator and put up with both my lights facing the same wall. It should add light, although not ideal like the NL100.
 
I use it when we gig for clubs with crappy power. But you make a good point I haven't thought of. Maybe the NL100 is getting confused as to when it's been 3 hours. Smartpool's product manager is supposed to call me this week. I'll ask him how the light tracks time since power on. thanks!
 
Smartpool was unfortunately again no help. They just think the transformer's getting hot and tripping the thermal. Do you know how the auqaluminator compares to the NL100(or the colored version you have)? Is it about the same brightness?