I have another post I need some help with if you could take a look when you get a chance regarding countertops ... also - is it necessary to tape and thinset the bottom durock panels ?
Thanks!
Wayne
Thanks!
Wayne
Outdoor Kitchen Build - Kansas
- Thread starter webdad
- Start date
Wow, how time flies. Since my last post, I have completed the countertops and the tiling. The project is now done!
Here is an updater from my post over in the Primo Grill forums.
I made the countertops as cast concrete with white/green/blue/turquoise glass chips. Polished from 50 grit to 3200 grit. Never did this before, but now my wife has a list of countertop projects around the house as long as my arm.
I used the Stone coloring from Cheng Concrete for color.
The largest countertop weighs in around 400 lbs, so friends and family came over one Friday night to get it in place
That same weekend it was a mad dash to get the tiling done before leaving on vacation the following week
After fitting the drawers and doors, and some caulking it was ready for the Primo
There we go:
While this was 10 months in the making, it was a great project. I had never done anything like this before - steel studs, concrete countertops, permabase, etc. Even so, after spending some time studying, it went amazingly well and I think it turned out great.
I just pitty the fool who buys the house out in the distant future and thinks he is going to rip it out.
Here is an updater from my post over in the Primo Grill forums.
I made the countertops as cast concrete with white/green/blue/turquoise glass chips. Polished from 50 grit to 3200 grit. Never did this before, but now my wife has a list of countertop projects around the house as long as my arm.
I used the Stone coloring from Cheng Concrete for color.
The largest countertop weighs in around 400 lbs, so friends and family came over one Friday night to get it in place
That same weekend it was a mad dash to get the tiling done before leaving on vacation the following week
After fitting the drawers and doors, and some caulking it was ready for the Primo
There we go:
While this was 10 months in the making, it was a great project. I had never done anything like this before - steel studs, concrete countertops, permabase, etc. Even so, after spending some time studying, it went amazingly well and I think it turned out great.
I just pitty the fool who buys the house out in the distant future and thinks he is going to rip it out.
Nice setup! I really like how the counter tops came out. I plan to do something similar. I just started researching this and had a question on the framing. This may be a dumb question but I am wondering if the u-channel fit into each other? For example, your vertical supports look like they fit into the bottom u-channel then its screwed on each side. Or is it u-channel cut and overlapped? Also, is the dryvit available at my local hardware store? I have never seen that stuff before.
rodog123
0
How did you secure the concrete countertops to the cement board? Adhesive?
Looks great man!
Looks great man!
I got the steel studs from Home Depot. There are studs (the ones with the holes cut in them every so often) and then there are the channels that have walls that are not quite as high but they are solid. The channels are made slightly wider so the studs will sit inside of them. Once you start working with them, it is actually pretty easy. it is basically like you are building miniature walls and cubes using the process from the Symphony BBQ ebook. That was easily the best $10 I spent on the project. They say the connection options are pop rivets or screws. I did screws and they were easy.
For DryVit, I had to do a dealer search on their website. It isn't available at any of the chain hardware stores. I found it at a contractor supply type place in a warehouse park near here. They asked me what color I wanted and then mixed it and had it waiting for me when I arrived. There are some videos on YouTube about how to apply it. I first tried brushing it on, since it is somewhat brushable, but it wound up being easier to just trowel it on (even though I had never really troweled something like this before).
- - - Updated - - -
While the right side counter top weighs in at 400 lbs, and probably isn't moving anytime soon, the others were not as heavy. After they were in place and level, I just lifted them up a bit and my wife shot a couple hits of concrete adhesive in at spots along the front / sides. Just enough to keep them from shifting.
For DryVit, I had to do a dealer search on their website. It isn't available at any of the chain hardware stores. I found it at a contractor supply type place in a warehouse park near here. They asked me what color I wanted and then mixed it and had it waiting for me when I arrived. There are some videos on YouTube about how to apply it. I first tried brushing it on, since it is somewhat brushable, but it wound up being easier to just trowel it on (even though I had never really troweled something like this before).
- - - Updated - - -
While the right side counter top weighs in at 400 lbs, and probably isn't moving anytime soon, the others were not as heavy. After they were in place and level, I just lifted them up a bit and my wife shot a couple hits of concrete adhesive in at spots along the front / sides. Just enough to keep them from shifting.
The glass chips came from American Specialty Glass. They have all kinds of sizes and colors. I was about to order a variety sample set when I noticed that they will send you up to 4 samples free, just send them an email with the colors and sizes. I asked for 4 different colors and a couple sizes so I could judge what I wanted. I wound up with 4 colors and 2 different sizes of each color (#1 and #2).
For the molds, I did most of my concrete research at Cheng Concrete. He recommends molds with a base of Melamine particle board and then sides (2" to 2 1/2" high) of either strips of melamine or Styrofoam. Couldn't find Styrofoam in that square shape, but I did find solid plastic brick mold at Lowe's that had a 2" flat side on it. I used that and screwed it into the surface of the melamine using decking screws. That worked perfectly and kept me from having to rip strips of melamine -- saving lots of time. Once the mold was formed, I lined the seams with silicone caulk.
That PrimoXL is sweet!
Your next toy: cyberq wifi.
Control your primo from anywhere on the www! Work, pool, phone, bed, couch, etc. It is beyond awesome!
Here is the link to order one, don't forget the fan.
http://store.thebbqguru.com/weborderentry/CyberQ WiFi
Your next toy: cyberq wifi.
Control your primo from anywhere on the www! Work, pool, phone, bed, couch, etc. It is beyond awesome!
Here is the link to order one, don't forget the fan.
http://store.thebbqguru.com/weborderentry/CyberQ WiFi
I've had the cyberq Wi-Fi for about a year and a half. It is awesome and one of the reasons for the outlets on the back wall ☺
Thanks so much for sharing your work! Your results look great!
I'm trying to make my own and have a question. It doesn't appear that you did any sealing (e.g. DryVit) of the bottom. How is that holding up? Would you recommend any sealing?
Is there anything you wish you had done differently now that a few years have passed?
I'm trying to make my own and have a question. It doesn't appear that you did any sealing (e.g. DryVit) of the bottom. How is that holding up? Would you recommend any sealing?
Is there anything you wish you had done differently now that a few years have passed?
I am glad this thread got bumped up, very helpful. I am designing my ODK, have all of my stainless pieces and will soon start on the frame. I just wanted to add a note on the ebook mentioned here. I ordered it and read it today, it is indeed very helpful, especially if you are using a free standing cart grill and building an island around it. Since I have an existing high quality grill of this type that is exactly what I am doing so, again, the book was very helpful, thanks!