Help for a variety of Problems

RoccoJay

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2013
7
Concord, CA
I am not sure where to begin, so I will list my tests from this morning and then describe what is happening.

FC - ~0-0.5
CC or TC - ~0-0.5
pH - ~6.9-7.0
TA - ~180-200
CH - ~250
CYA - ~100-125

These are my tests after adding 10 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine last night. I have been adding liquid chlorine religiously and the pool won't hold any overnight. The strange thing is that the water is actually crystal clear (when not foaming from aeration, see below).

I have been trying to reduce the TA by adding acid and then aerating, and after only one dose of acid and 24 hours of aeration my pH has not really budged. Also during aeration my pool is producing a foam that looks like a bubble bath and when the wind blows it actually flies around the yard.

My plan is to just keep adding liquid chlorine until it starts to hold and hopefully stops the foaming, and to reduce TA using the acid/aerate method. I am worried though because as of yet the pool's pH has not risen from aeration at all after about 48 hours straight. Below is a picture of the aerator I built with the help of the folks here sharing their experience, that I include in case there is something I should do to make it more effective.

Any help or advice would be appreciated and if I need to provide further information let me know. Thanks.

[attachment=0:3cvjvnos]0711130850.jpg[/attachment:3cvjvnos]
 

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10 gallons of 10% should have gotten you to 29 PPM of FC. Your high CYA should have helped keep it there.

Why did you add so much?

(sorry i've never done what you are attempting with aeration or i'd comment on it)
 
For right now I am using a combination of tests while awaiting the arrival of my TF-100 test kit.

For FC and CC/TC I am using two different brands of test strips (AquaCheck and Leslies) and a drop test kit all of which seem to have a consistent result.

For pH I am using the test strips, the drop test kit, and an Oakton digital pH meter called pHTestr2 all of which seem to have a consistent result.

For TA I am using the drop test kit and the test strips, the drop test kit seems to show a higher TA than the test strips.

For CH I am using the AquaCheck test strips.

For CYA I am using the test strips, which seem to have a consistent result.
 
I added 10 gallons of chlorine because it is my understanding (which may be incorrect) that 10 gallons would be the correct amount to shock the pool with a CYA of 100-125 and that since the pool is not holding chlorine overnight that there is likely something living in there (bacteria or algae, etc.) that is causing a high chlorine demand.
 
Can you post the details of the chlorine you are adding? It isn't anything that's labeled "outdoor" or "splash-proof" or anything like that, right? Honestly I've never seen 10% be anything but pure, but since you have a bubble bath, I figured it was something to ask anyway.
 
Have you read the SLAM process yet? pool-school/shocking_your_pool

You are going to be told that your CYA test results are not to be trusted. If they were accurate shock level would be something higher than 39 PPM, which 10 gallons of 10% wouldn't achieve.

When you get your tf-100 we can see what the real CYA level is and make a decision. How difficult would a water change (some % to be determined when we know CYA level) be for you?
 
RobbieH said:
Can you post the details of the chlorine you are adding? It isn't anything that's labeled "outdoor" or "splash-proof" or anything like that, right? Honestly I've never seen 10% be anything but pure, but since you have a bubble bath, I figured it was something to ask anyway.

The chlorine I am using is Kem-Tek, I have been getting it at Lowe's because it is cheaper than any bleach I have found. Also the bubble bath thing was happening at the start of the season when there was a plumbing leak on the suction side (now repaired) and also before a partial drain, when my dad (it's actually his pool, but have done so much work on it that I now have a sense of ownership) was using trichlor to chlorinate the pool, hence the high CYA and the drain and switch to liquid. So I don't think the chlorine is causing the foam.

Attached is the MSDS for the chlorine
 

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harleysilo said:
Have you read the SLAM process yet? pool-school/shocking_your_pool

You are going to be told that your CYA test results are not to be trusted. If they were accurate shock level would be something higher than 39 PPM, which 10 gallons of 10% wouldn't achieve.

When you get your tf-100 we can see what the real CYA level is and make a decision. How difficult would a water change (some % to be determined when we know CYA level) be for you?

I will read that now, thank you.

I assume the CYA is going to be high because of the prolonged use of trichlor (by my dad) before the partial drain. The TF-100 should arrive tomorrow.

I already did a 50% drain and refill this season, but if that is what it takes I can get it done.

I was using the Pool calculator to determine the shock level, is the chart linked to the SLAM article more accurate?
 

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Short answer, you should do a drain and fill. I would say to replace at least half of your water. Based on what I know about Concord, your fill water is clean and cheap.

You could confirm when you get you test kit. I would say your CYA goal should be less than 50ppm if you intend to use liquid chlorine.
 
JohnN said:
I believe some algaecides can cause foaming, do you know if any of them were added?

Some had been added in the past, but not in almost a month. I believe it was PoolBrand Algaecide 40 from Sam's club and the main ingredient is Alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride. Again I ceased using this product after a partial drain and refill.
 
Algaecides are the primary culprit when foaming occurs. I'm a bit surprised that you would still see the effect of that but I would still suspect it as the cause.

The good news is that your elevated chlorine levels will cause it to slowly dissipate with no harm done.

I would not use them anymore......you really don't need them.
 
duraleigh said:
Algaecides are the primary culprit when foaming occurs. I'm a bit surprised that you would still see the effect of that but I would still suspect it as the cause.

The good news is that your elevated chlorine levels will cause it to slowly dissipate with no harm done.

I would not use them anymore......you really don't need them.

Thank you for your comments, I have already stopped using them and will no longer be using them, especially that one. From what I have read I am surprised also that it would still be foaming, but I think I will scoop the foam this weekend to see if that speeds up the breakdown process.
 
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