I have a Jandy Aquapure EI(plug in version) arriving today. I have no outlet at my pump pad. Where should I wire in an outlet? Can I tie into the Intermatic timer box, or should I somehow tap into the breaker box? Thanks for any help.
Where should I wire in an outlet for my SWG?
- Thread starter gullzway
- Start date
The power for the SWG should come off the LOAD side of the timer so that it can not be on when the pump is off.
Based on those wire colors ... your pump appears to be 230V ... so neither of those are "negative" {I think you mean "neutral" when talking about 115V}
So if you SWG is only 115V, you may have to run a neutral from the panel (if there is not one already) and then power the SWG off EITHER the 2 or 4 terminal. EDIT: But honestly I am not sure if that is a good idea as it would result is mismatched current through the 2 LINES coming from the pump breaker.
So if you SWG is only 115V, you may have to run a neutral from the panel (if there is not one already) and then power the SWG off EITHER the 2 or 4 terminal. EDIT: But honestly I am not sure if that is a good idea as it would result is mismatched current through the 2 LINES coming from the pump breaker.
Or can I tie the outlet into the green wire, which is coming from the neutral bar in the breaker box?
EDIT: Just saw your edit about mismatched current tying into one of the 120 lines. I'll tie into the breaker box, Thanks!!!
EDIT: Just saw your edit about mismatched current tying into one of the 120 lines. I'll tie into the breaker box, Thanks!!!
I am just not knowledgeable enough to know if running the SWG off one leg of the 230V pump circuit is OK or not.
Most SWG usually are hardwired and designed to be wired for both 115V or 230V. You should check and if yours could be rewired for 230V, I would recommend tieing it into the timer for the safest installation.
Most SWG usually are hardwired and designed to be wired for both 115V or 230V. You should check and if yours could be rewired for 230V, I would recommend tieing it into the timer for the safest installation.
The first thing I notice is that I don't see any gfci breakers in that panel. They should be.
You shouldn't tie the neutral wire of the swg into the ground wires in the timer. You could run a neutral from the panel to the timer box and run it that way.
There are a couple of ways to run the pump and swg from that timer.
1. Run a neutral wire from the panel to the swg through the timer and hook the hot of the swg to terminal 2 or 4.
2. Run a neutral wire and a hot wire from the panel to the timer and then remove the wires from terminal 3 & 4 (even the white one) and wirenut them together. Then run the neutral to the swg and hook the hot to terminal 3 and the swg hot wire to terminal 4.
3. Leave the pump hooked up like it is now and run the swg to the panel and hope the flow switch shuts it down every time.
I don't recommend #3!
You shouldn't tie the neutral wire of the swg into the ground wires in the timer. You could run a neutral from the panel to the timer box and run it that way.
There are a couple of ways to run the pump and swg from that timer.
1. Run a neutral wire from the panel to the swg through the timer and hook the hot of the swg to terminal 2 or 4.
2. Run a neutral wire and a hot wire from the panel to the timer and then remove the wires from terminal 3 & 4 (even the white one) and wirenut them together. Then run the neutral to the swg and hook the hot to terminal 3 and the swg hot wire to terminal 4.
3. Leave the pump hooked up like it is now and run the swg to the panel and hope the flow switch shuts it down every time.
I don't recommend #3!
2 is a pretty good idea basically making the timer have 2 SPST switches instead of 1 DPST switch (you would need to add a new SWG breaker) ... although some would argue that you should turn both legs of the 230V to the pump off with the timer to be "safer". Although I would not be messing with the wires without throwing the breaker off anyway 
Still not sure #1 is recommended ... in fact if you change the pump breaker to a GFCI, I am pretty sure #1 would cause the GFCI to trip since it monitors the current through the 2 legs for a difference.
Still not sure #1 is recommended ... in fact if you change the pump breaker to a GFCI, I am pretty sure #1 would cause the GFCI to trip since it monitors the current through the 2 legs for a difference.
I forgot to say that #2 is the preferred choice.
#1 will not work as JB points out, if you change the breakers to gfci (which I highly recommend).
#1 will not work as JB points out, if you change the breakers to gfci (which I highly recommend).
One is labeled GFCI, it runs over to my Koi pond.Bama Rambler said:
Why would tying into the ground of the timer(which comes straight from the neutral bar in the breaker box,) be any different from running another wire to the neutral bar?
That is probably just saying it has a GFCI outlet on that circuit. None of your breakers are GFCIgullzway said:
It just isgullzway said:
Granted it would work, but that would not be correct or to code. It could result in engerizing all the ground wires.
SWG must be last. What type of flow meter? It might be ok to put before the filter and not get clogged.
jblizzle said:
It just has a little black paddle in it in the flow path. When I ordered the unit it wasn't pictured, so I didn't know it came with it.
Oh! You mean the flow switch/sensor for the SWG not a separate flow meter.
Should be fine before the filter, verify the plumbing requirements in the manual.
Should be fine before the filter, verify the plumbing requirements in the manual.
Got it installed, thanks for the help. I'll have to test and see if it's making chlorine, but so far so good. I ran a neutral wire from the breaker box to the outlet, and ran the positive from terminal 4. So I guess that was option #1, option #2 confused me, working good so far!
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
Attachments
gullzway said:
Just FYI, you can but it is against code. Household appliances (Dryers, electric stoves, etc) generally use 220V for heating and 110V for the controls. You could wire them with 2 hots and a ground, and the 110V side would use the ground as the neutral. This works, but the problem is the bare ground is now carrying current. The NEC decided that was bad (it is) so starting around 1993 required 2 hots, a ground and a neutral. This is why electric dryers have a 3-prong or 4-prong plug. The difference is the separate neutral. When I bought my house I found that the 110V condensate pump for the air handler in the basement was using 1 leg of the 220V supply and the bare ground for the air handler as a neutral. It worked fine, it was just dangerous.