Can't seem to get rid of CC

[gucu]

New to pools and this site but have been reading everything I can here. I'm trying to use the BBB method. Here's where I'm at:
FC - 12.0
CC - 1.5
pH - 7.5
TA - 120
CH - 30
CYA - 30

Pool went to zero FC and got slightly cloudy so I brought the FC up to 6 and noticed that I had 1.5 CC at that time. I've been going through the shocking process, 2 days now. Pool is crystal clear right now. FC only dropped 1ppm last night but CC is still high. What's next? The kids want to swim but I want to hold them off until I can let the FC go down to normal. Thank you!

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

Continue what you are doing and follow the now newly named SLAM Process until you get the CC to drop and verify with another OCLT.

BTW, it is safe to swim with the FC up to the shock level for your CYA ... some once the CC drop, you will be able to swim pretty quickly.

 

[JohnN]

Just keep at it. Keep getting FC up to 13 as often as you can, and the CC should start to come down. Those test results are from a TF-100 or K-2006, correct?

 

[Cloudbusting]

like the others said: keep on doing what you are doing, the sun will start burning off the CC, the clorine smell will disappear and once CC shows <= 0.5 it's time to jump in!

 

[Bluechip]

I like the new terminology! SLAM hopefully will avoid the confusion with the pool store "shock". Great idea

 

[jblizzle]

I like the new terminology! SLAM hopefully will avoid the confusion with the pool store "shock". Great idea

That was the idea of the contest to rename it.

 

[gucu]

Ok, will stay with it. Kmart is happy to see me every few days. And yes, I am using a TF-100. Thanks for the help.

BTW, what is OCLT?

 

[jblizzle]

OCLT = the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test ... there is a link to it also in the SLAM Process article.

 

[RobbieH]

To help a little, the SLAM process can take a week, two weeks, three weeks, or even more. In your case I do not believe this will be the case, but to finish in 2 days would be rare.

 

[gucu]

FC drop was less than 1ppm last night and CC seems to be at or below .5ppm. Going to keep it up 1 more day to be sure.

A few questions: Will the CC readings change due to the time of day or temperature?

Also, when doing the FAS-DPD test the kit says to use a heaping spoonful of the powder. How critical is the amount of powder used? I like to be exact for consistency and this is a somewhat loose measurement.

I am going to target my CYA at 40 which will require a 3-7 on FC levels. Does this require me to use the FAS-DPD test every day instead of the basic test due to the higher FC levels? Or should I keep the CYA lower?

 

[Smykowski]

FC drop was less than 1ppm last night and CC seems to be at or below .5ppm. Going to keep it up 1 more day to be sure.

A few questions: Will the CC readings change due to the time of day or temperature?

Also, when doing the FAS-DPD test the kit says to use a heaping spoonful of the powder. How critical is the amount of powder used? I like to be exact for consistency and this is a somewhat loose measurement.

I am going to target my CYA at 40 which will require a 3-7 on FC levels. Does this require me to use the FAS-DPD test every day instead of the basic test due to the higher FC levels? Or should I keep the CYA lower?

If CCs are 0.5 or less consistently, consider them at 0. There will always be CCs in the pool if you have people in the pool. CC stands for combined chlorine, which is another word for chloramines. Chloramines are the byproduct of Free Chlorine oxidizing bather waste (specifically Nitrogen compounds like sweat, pee, spit, sunscreen). In an otherwise clean pool, the CCs will disappear quickly because they are either broken up by the sun/UV rays or further oxidized by more chlorine. For us, .5 CC = 0 CC.

For normal maintenance levels, if you put in a heaping spoonful, and it turns pink, you're fine. If it flashing pink and goes back to clear, you need more. The only time you really need to worry about not putting in enough is if you're in the middle of the SLAM process.

Your last question is a great question because it means you are 100% in tune with your pool's chemistry. The level you maintain for CYA will vary by pool size/surface area and sunlight. I like to run mine up between 60 and 70, but that's because I have a lot of surface area absorbing those chlorine destroying UV rays. As a result, I know I have to watch my FC like a hawk because I never want it to get close to the minimum, because I never want to SLAM the pool. In my case, I use the FAS-DPD test all the time; in fact, I've never used the simple chlorine test because I need the precision, and frankly, I want it. TC above 5 isn't good enough for me. If your minimum is 3, you could use the comparator test, and if it gets below 5, bump it up to 7. That would leave enough buffer. If you run the CYA any higher, you'd probably need the FAS-DPD test every time.

 

[duraleigh]

How critical is the amount of powder used? I like to be exact for consistency and this is a somewhat loose measurement.

There is no exact amount required. A heaping scoop will turn your water pink if you have chlorine.

 

[gucu]

Just to follow up and thanks for all the replies and help, happy pool now:
FC - 7
CC - .5 or less
PH - 7.6
TA - 110
CH - 30
CYA - 40

I found my problem and wanted to share with any other new pool owners. It was my ladder. I didn't clean it well enough before putting it in. The previous owner of the house had left it outside in the weather and I pressure washed it before I put it in. I should have taken it apart and bleached it like I did yesterday. There was all kinds of green hiding in it. From what I've read here, undisturbed algae is tough to get rid of. This winter the ladder is coming apart and will be stored in a shed...

 

[techguy]

If you have a light, that is the other "repeat offender" for algae hiding places. There is a thread going on to prove this.

think-i-may-have-found-my-fc-demand-issue-t65957.html