Chemicals balanced, green pool!!

Jul 8, 2013
11
Wharton Texas
I've had this pool since June and have spent more on chemicals than I spent on the pool purchase. I've tried yellow out, chlor brite, metal free, pool perfect, bought a new sand filter, and continuously check the water. I made another trip to the pool store today and purchased Pool First Aid. I was told this should remove the green but I'm not so sure. I don't know what else to do. The water has been clear but is still an olive green color. Please please please help me! :cry: Today's readings are:
FAC 3
TAC 3
CH 290
CYA 80
TA 100
pH 7.4
Pho 0
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! :wave:

You are what we referred to as pool-stored. You are blindly spending money and likely making the problem worse.

I would highly recommend spending some time reading Pool School (button at the upper right of the page). There is an article outlining a method of maintaining small pools: pool-school/temporary_pool_guide

But, that assumes you are starting from scratch. You are starting from a mess. Honestly the cheapest method is likely draining and starting over. If you are going to try to understand the chemistry and clear up the pool, then you are going to need one of the Recommended Test Kits {which would be a good idea to have any path you choose to take}.

Based on those test results (which we do not typically trust), you FC is too low based on your high CYA. Looking at this chart: pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock with a CYA of 80ppm, your FC should NEVER be less than 6ppm to prevent algae from starting.

There is no need to yellow out or any algaecides, just chlorine is all you need ... although you seem to be indicating a problem with metals ... have they been confirmed present in your pool? If so, you need to consistently be adding a sequestrant as described here: pool-school/metal%20stains
 
Welcome to TFP :wave:

Is the water a transparent green or a murky pond-like green? What is the source of your fill water (well or municipal water)?

maristone said:
FAC 3
TAC 3
CH 290
CYA 80
TA 100
pH 7.4
Pho 0
The FC level of 3 ppm is too low for your CYA of 80 ppm and algae may be getting a foothold. At that CYA level, you need to maintain a minimum FC of 6. Chlorine gets depleted each day due to sunlight and as a by-product of doing its job as a sanitizer. Therefore, FC needs to be tested and replenished daily during the swim season. I recommend testing and dosing FC in the early evening after all sunlight is off the pool. Recommend using plain, unscented liquid bleach for chlorination. When dosing, aim for an FC of about 9 to make sure it does not go below 6 ppm. Read Chlorine CYA Chart for more information on the FC/CYA relationship.

None of those other products the pool store sold you are needed. Managing FC and using liquid bleach is all you need for adequate sanitation - it is really that simple.

All of your other numbers look good, BTW. If you don't already have one, you will need a good test kit to properly manage your pool. Here is a comparison of the recommended Test Kits.
 
Sorry to hear it's been such an awful process. We'll help you fix it.

1. You MUST buy a good test kit. No way around it. You were willing to blindly spend what the pool store told you to buy. If you follow us on this one, I can pretty much guarantee you'll save money in the long run. It will certainly be cheaper than what you did already. And it won't be blindly following us...we'll teach you along the way.

2. Read Pool School. Then reread it. Then take a break. Then read some more.

3. Head over to the "Defeating Algae" threads for some inspiration. Richard320 has a list of recent success stories I'm sure he'll provide shortly.

4. Go back and read Pool School again. At this point a lot of it should start making sense.

5. By now you should have your test kit, and we'll help you take back the pool.

Welcome to the forum!
 
Thank you for the quick responses! The pool is filled with well water and changes form transparent to slightly murky. I believe the green color of the water is due to metals present in the water but the money hungry salesmen at the pool store tell me that they are no longer present. I believe metal free is a sequestrant and will not completely remove the metal from the water. I'm almost certain the only way to get rid of the metals is to have the pool filled with municipal water. We bought this pool for our children because we knew we would be unable to do much this summer because I'm in nursing school and with the amount of money we've spent on chemicals, we could have taken a small trip somewhere. We just want to enjoy this pool and not be so embarrassed by our hillbilly pool. :(
 
Sequesterants have to be added periodically as you guessed. If mini water is an option then drain and refill when it makes sense.

You can own this pool...rather than the pool owning you.

Sent via Tapatalk...
 
We added the pool first aid before I joined this site and the water went from clear and green to green and cloudy. Today I'm going to add bleach and see how that goes. I'm hoping to drain about 38% of the water and fill with municipal water.
 
I can atest to TFP helping you out. There are two important things to remember at these early stages that might not have been mentioned yet.

1.} Stay the course (be patient, no need to rush and waste even more money!)
2.} Aside from Chlorine. no need to rush and add tons of chemicals

just my 2 pennies worth!
 
Aside from maintaining proper chlorine levels to prevent and control algae, my biggest problem is metal in the water. What is the best way to test for metals other than taking a after sample to the pool store? At this time I'm not sure if the green is from algae or metal. I think i have a good understanding about pool chemistry, I just need to get a good water testing kit instead of constantly taking water samples to the pool store. They always talk me into buying this or that.
 
Metal tests are expensive, so letting the pool store do it is fine. Metals will give the water a tint, but it can still be clear. I think you have algae and metals to deal with.
 

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jblizzle said:
I think you have algae and metals to deal with.
So do I. All the evidence point to it: FC that is too low for your CYA, water that is getting cloudy, and the metals.

maristone said:
At this time I'm not sure if the green is from algae or metal.
It is probably some of both, given what I stated above. There is a test called the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT) that you can run using one of the recommended test kits to see if your pool has algae or some other organic contaminant.

I would strongly suggest that getting a recommended test kit should be Priority #1. Little else matters without that.
 
NO!!!!! Leslies will NOT have the recommended test kits. {Well unless you are going to a commercial supply and not a retail store}.

Get one of these Recommended Test Kits. In fact just trust us and get the TF100 from tftestkits.net

The DE is there to help clear the cloudiness ... AFTER ... you are close to completing the SLAM Process.
 
maristone said:
Thanks for the info! I plan on purchasing the kit from Leslie's pool supply tomorrow. I'm also considering adding DE to my sand filter. I read in Pool school how to do that. Any suggestions on that?
It's unlikely, though possible, that they'll stock it. The kit you want is this: http://www.lesliespool.com/Home/Pool-Ch ... 81329.html

Do NOT let them sell you 81330 - It is NOT the same. It doesn't have the critical FAS-DPD test -that's why it's cheaper.
 
I have a question, the green is gone from my pool and it is pretty clear until the stuff that has settled on the bottom is stirred up. They are tiny tiny yellow particles that do not dissolve. I noticed them on my white ultra fine leaf skimmer. Any idea what this could be and does anyone have any suggestions what kind of vacuum would be good for this pool? I've back washed the filter/pump once even though the psi hadn't changed much. The water was filthy dark brown when I back washed. Any input is greatly appreciated!
 

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