Coping Glue Help

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T

toofast

0
May 9, 2013
993
North East Ohio
I have a NEW INSTALL and the dang COPING keeps loosening up. My PB insists it is because the "decking" is not poured and when it does it will firm up.

I think that is garbage...how will a "caulk" joint prevent the coping from loosening up ? (Ignore the lovely carpet, it is simply a temp thing to prevent us from killing ourselves around the pool)

Attached area few photos...with that in mind, does anybody have any guidance on what is the BEST "glue" to use to keep these suckers in place. I just want to give the PB some options and/or do it myself.

[attachment=1:3nsltj1j]Coping 1.jpg[/attachment:3nsltj1j]

[attachment=0:3nsltj1j]Coping 2.jpg[/attachment:3nsltj1j]
 

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harleysilo said:
I didn't expect you actually meant glue. I would have expected those stones to be set in thinset mortar of some type. Can't wait to see what others think.
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As did I, but the PB "INSISTED" this "GLUE" is the best way to go...not quite sure I agree with him. As far as I can tell, it is some special type if "liquid nails" or at least that is what the PB claims it is.
 
Have you seen http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/for ... ?forumid=1 ?

That is my go to site for all things tile/stone to bad there aren't more pool build threads there.

The glue is not poping off the beam, or the back of the coping is it? The bond is breaking in the glue bead, right?

What material is the coping, looks like stone with a finished edge.

I can't tell from pictures, is their grouting between coping joints?
 
It honestly seems like the "glue" is failing to itself. Meaning some is on the fiberglass and concrete; then some is on the actual stone.

They are called artistic pavers -this is the site where they came from. http://www.artisticpavers.com/coping.php

There is no grout between the coping, they are a very tight fit.

Ok, since he was supposed to use thin set, but did not...and he WON'T remove them all and redo with thin set - do I have any other options ?
 
http://www.artisticpavers.com/coping.php installation diagram clear shows Mud under coping piece.

page 2 here http://www.artisticpavers.com/downloads ... Coping.pdf

Their installation video's won't load for me.

Have you called them and asked? Can you do glue, what type would you use? I bet they say no, get that in writing.

If they are already poping, it's unacceptable. You'd want some guarentee in writing that he keep fixing them since he didn't follow manufacture instructions.
 
harleysilo said:
:mrgreen: The two HOA hating users are the only ones posting in your thread....LOL :lovetfp:
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Funny - and to be clear - I agree, many HOA are managed by folks that need power. Our HOA is simply to keep the neighborhood LOOKING like those who bought into it wanted in the first place. So - the issue with many HOA hatters is they don't know what they signed up for...

Anyways, hopefully more (both HOA HATERS and LOVERS) will give me some more advice!
 
but the PB "INSISTED" this "GLUE" is the best way to go
Click to expand...
How's that workin' out fo ya'? :mrgreen:

Pavers are typically laid loose on a very accurately prepared sand bed with something around all borders to contain them within that sand bed.

Obviously a "paver" installation won't work as coping because there is nothing to keep the sand bed and paver from working over and falling into the pool.

I believe you will need to remove all tiles, mechanically AND chemically remove that mastic, mechanically and chemically remove that mastic from the back of each tile and then go forward.

What is the blue surface at the water's edge? Is that the bond beam behind the blue stuff?
 

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harleysilo said:
I assumed that was the top edge of his fiberglass pool.
Click to expand...

Yes the pool is fiberglass, that blue is the lip of the pool, the grey is the concrete ledge that the "coping" lays on.

The only way they will all be removed is for me to sue the PB and I don't have the $$ for that at the moment. So I gotta try "something" else.
 
Well, I completely overlooked that the pool is fiberglass....sorry.

That's why he has to use mastic instead of thinset. There is simply too much movement for thinset to work.

Mastic is the correct product to use in that application but it is normally a 2-part epoxy that, once put down, never (and I mean never) comes loose. He is apparently either using the wrong stuff or applying it incorrectly.

If you have no financial leverage over your PB, you will have to deal with however he fixes it.
 
That looks like the stuff I used for the capstone on my paver seating wall. Think the masonry adhesive I used was made my "Dap". I had one or two pop off over the first week, so I used it liberally and have never had another problem.

An epoxy like stated above is probably the best bet for your application.
 
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