Pentair IC40

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desert-ginger

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May 12, 2013
14
Phoenix, AZ
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Uh oh. We just had one of these installed when we remodeled the pool 2 months ago. I've been reading this site as we are doing the startup now. I feel stupid for asking this, but how do you turn it off completely? I haven't been able to figure that out and I fear it's been running all this time when the pump runs despite not having any salt in the water while the pebble cures. The only way I can figure out would be to unplug it's power supply. We sort of regret spending the money on the IC-40 because the pool has been so easy to maintain since the remodel using just liquid chlorine and acid (prior it was a plaster diving pool built in 1975 that had never been remodeled/resurfaced).
 
Thanks! Have a test kit on order. Meanwhile relying on pool store testing. Unfortunately, I'm getting inconsistent CYA readings from them (80, 50, 38), so I think I'll wait until the TF-100 arrives before I worry about CYA levels. Chlorine level is hovering around 4-5. We did dump a bunch of chlorine in before we added the salt and also adjusted the pH. It was a tad low to start (7.2) and is rising (~7.7 this morning).
 
Ok. Apparently I can't even get consistent salt readings. I took a water sample to Leslie's and to a local shop. I got 3200 ppm from Leslie's and 3700 ppm from the local shop. They both use digital meters but different types. Should I just wait until I get the salt test strips I ordered? The indicator light on the unit shows the level is "good".

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The salt measurement made by the SWG is the one that really counts. As long as the SWG is happy it doesn't really matter what the other tests say.

The only thing to watch out for is when the cell is nearing the end of it's lifetime. Right near the end it will report the salt level as low, even when it is fine. Adding additional salt will work for a while, but if you keep doing that it will still fail, and leave you with a very high salt level.
 
Ok, thanks. I guess I was going for the 200 ppm over the ideal (3400 ppm in the manual) as stated in the Pool School SWG section. Since it's brand new, I hope the cell will last us a few years. Luckily, between the shops and our tiny home test kit, chlorine and pH levels were all consistent. Chlorine is around 3-4 at the moment and pH is 7.6. Going to run the SWG for the day at 40% and see where we're at this evening. Since I have no idea what my CYA levels are (today's reading at Leslie's was 90! Local shop just told me I was "a little low") I'm not going to do any other tinkering until we get the TF100.
 
Ok, it seems the swg isn't happy afterall. It's flashing low salt again. I got the test kit yesterday and ran all the tests. The salt test strips measured at just barely 3400 ppm. That should be ideal and yet, it is flashing low salt. So, I guess I'll add another bag?

Also, here are the other test results (water is 92'F):

FC: 6
CC: 0
CYA: 50
TA:120
CH: 290
pH: 7.6

Do I really need to add CYA if my FC seems good (it's actually a little high)?

This weekend we will drop the pH and run the waterfall to try to get the TA down.

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