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Thread: Liquidator up and running

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    revstriker's Avatar
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    Liquidator up and running

    After much research on this site, I decided to order the 8 gallon liquidator. It arrived on Thursday, and I installed it on Friday. I was able to use the hole where the unused chlorine puck used to connect on the input side, and I was able to connect to the basket drain on the output side. Got the adapters at the home store. I initially did not install any check valves. Was able to reach full pressure (5). I did notice when the pump shut off the liquidator would drain through the input hose. I wasn't too worried about it, but decided to try out the check valve. This stopped the draining, and had no effect on pressure. Now I just need to play with it to figure out what setting works best.

    While I was at the home store, I also picked up a cover for it. I got the Weber grill cover (the kind that goes over the round charcoal grills) and it fits perfect! Cost about 10 bucks, and I use a bungee cord around it to keep it in place.

    Question for those with the liquidator: Do you find yourself having to constantly adjust it based on how sunny it is, or have you found a setting that that works no matter what? I know that the amount of bleach I used to add to the pool would vary daily based on how sunny it was. I used to always bring the FC level up to 5 ppm every night. Sometimes it would only drop to 4, and other times it would be down to 2 (with zero CC, so I don't think it was anything other than UV burning up the FC).

    Second question: Would running my pump during the day, when the sun is out and burning up the FC be more effective than running it late in the evening or over night? Just wondering if replacing it as it's being burned off is any better than replacing it after it's been burned off.
    10K White Plaster Pool Built in 2007. Hayward Pump and DE Filter, Hayward Navigator, Liquidator (Removed due to issues), Solar Blanket, BBB user.

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    Just wondering if replacing it as it's being burned off is any better than replacing it after it's been burned off.
    I'll tackle that one. It is my opinion, and that opinion is getting stronger, that the LQ can give similar results to an SWG (running lower chlorine levels) if the FC is kept at the most even level possible.

    In other words, the LQ ideally should put a little chlorine in the pool several times daily.

    As an experiment, I have been running my LQ for two weeks maintaining my FC around 2or so ppm with a CYA of 60ppm. (I know, I know it's too low....it's an experiment) For those two weeks, the pool has been spotless and continually test less than 1.0 CC's.

    I have the pump running three hour cycles starting @ 9:00AM, 2:00PM. and 10:00PM for a total of 9 hours daily.

    I have no idea if this procedure will give me good results all summer but it's off to a good start and as long as my test results are good, I'll continue this schedule.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    revstriker's Avatar
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    Interesting. I"m interested in seeing what results you end up getting. I may try to do this as well, but first I'll have to pick up some more on off switches for my timer (I only have one of each right now).
    10K White Plaster Pool Built in 2007. Hayward Pump and DE Filter, Hayward Navigator, Liquidator (Removed due to issues), Solar Blanket, BBB user.

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    I am on season two with my Liquidator as well and have found that for myself, the best schedule is as Duraleigh has described. I run four separate two hour sessions evenly spaced throughout the day/night. I keep the flow set at a specific rate (2 in my case) and never change it. I fill the Liquidator all the way and shoot for CL level when it is full to be on the higher end of the accepted range for my CYA level and then as the Liquidator empties and the CL concentration delivered weakens, the CL in the pool tapers down to the lower end of the accepted range. If I experience heavy usage, I toss a cup or two of bleach into the pool afterwards. I would resist tinkering with the flow rate after you have it tweaked as it really isn't necessary.
    6000 gal inground fiberglass
    1.5hp pump / sand filter
    Liquidator

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    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    Just wondering if replacing it as it's being burned off is any better than replacing it after it's been burned off.
    I'll tackle that one. It is my opinion, and that opinion is getting stronger, that the LQ can give similar results to an SWG (running lower chlorine levels) if the FC is kept at the most even level possible.

    In other words, the LQ ideally should put a little chlorine in the pool several times daily.

    As an experiment, I have been running my LQ for two weeks maintaining my FC around 2or so ppm with a CYA of 60ppm. (I know, I know it's too low....it's an experiment) For those two weeks, the pool has been spotless and continually test less than 1.0 CC's.

    I have the pump running three hour cycles starting @ 9:00AM, 2:00PM. and 10:00PM for a total of 9 hours daily.

    I have no idea if this procedure will give me good results all summer but it's off to a good start and as long as my test results are good, I'll continue this schedule.
    Dave -

    I wanted to follow up on your post here....hoping you'll report your progress and analysis while you are running this experiment. I am into my 3rd week (I think....too many hours of work and too many nights of interupted sleep with the 7 month old) with my LQ. I'm finding that if I measure my FC during the day, it appears to be really low if measured from pool....typically around 1.5 - 2ppm. If I measure from the sheer decent return, I get around 5ppm FC with my flow control on about 3.5 and using 12.5% chlorine. My CYA is about 40 right now. The water is clear and I have ZERO CC's. When measuring the FC ar about 8 in the evening, it is showing at 2 to 2.5, typically. (I did have a couple of days where the flow control was removed from the LQ and the FC shot up way high, around 10ppm, if memory serves me. It seems to me that if the water is circulated for the better part of the day and is chlorinated to the levels appropriate for the CYA level, that the lower FC reading in the pool is OK....but I'm certainly not the expert on the chemistry. I'm focused on this right now as we will be away for a week in a few weeks and I don't want to come back to a project.....guess I could drop a floater in, but rather not if I do not need to.

    As a side note, I have noticed that my water feels much softer over the last 3 weeks. My PH is pretty consistet at about 7.3 (little darker than the 7.2 orange, but lighter than the 7.5 orange).
    28,000 gallon gunite/white plaster with 30ft RBB and 2ft sheer descent, 100 sq ft thermaledge, 50sq ft spa w/ 6 jets
    2HP Jandy pump, 60sq ft Jandy DE filter, 400,000 BTU Jandy LX Nat Gas Heater, 2 Jandy color lights + Jandy color spa light, Jandy Aqualink RS6, Jandy AquaPure 1400

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    Re: Liquidator up and running

    Just wanted to update this thread since some of the posts were lost during the forum upgrade.

    LQ is running fine, but I have noticed particles were in the output line to the pump, and that they had caused the ball in the gauge to not work anymore. However, flow seemed to be fine. A quick look in the LQ tank showed that there were tiny particles floating in the tank, and I suspect that is what is in the output line and the gauge. The input line is completely clear. I removed the top of the gauge and stuck a screwdriver in to free up the ball. It seemed to work again, but by the next day it was stuck again. I am speculating that the particles might be residual that was on the inside of the LQ tank when I installed it (maybe tiny plastic shavings from the manufacturing process?). It could also be something that was in the bleach (I'm using Walmart brand 6% Bleach). I've decided to let the bleach run down, and then remove the tank and give it a cleaning and then reinstall. Since I had just filled it with bleach, I don't think I will be able to do this for at least another week. However, the flow IS fine, and the adjustment valve does work. It's just the gauge that doesn't work, which I'm not too concerned about.

    For the past week I've been playing with the adjustment valve trying to find the "perfect" setting for my pool. For anyone new to the LQ, or thinking about getting one, I will say that this can take a little bit of time, so be patient. But all in all, I am extremely happy that I decided to purchase the LQ and have recommended it to others as well.

    And finally (for this post ) I want to say that my experience with Dave (duraleigh) has been outstanding! My order was shipped extremely fast, and he has been available via TFP to answer questions (not just mine).
    10K White Plaster Pool Built in 2007. Hayward Pump and DE Filter, Hayward Navigator, Liquidator (Removed due to issues), Solar Blanket, BBB user.

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    Re: Liquidator up and running

    I am considering getting the LQ (So be ready Dave, I am a hard to please customer ) I was wondering if anyone has any pics of the set up?(install) I just can not get it through my thick stubborn skull how this thing works. Also Mine would be for an ABG, any ABG owners care to say how well it works on ABG? I have heard that with flex hose and being below water level is a problem.
    27' Round AG, 17,200 gallons, sand filter

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    Re: Liquidator up and running

    I'm also considering getting the Liquidator. How many of you are using the Liquidator and are you happy with it?
    Also since liquid chlorine has a high PH, will it raise my PH considerably? This seems like a foolproof solution to my chlorine problem.
    Thanks
    My pool is a 10,500 gallon (420 Sq Ft ) kidney shape. A hand made sheer decent waterfeature. STA-RITE HRPB30, Sand filter 30" 98 GPM,
    1 HP Maxi-Glas 2 pump, BBB Method, Taylor K-2005 test kit, 50 Watt 12V low-voltage pond light illuminates the pool at night for a nice soft glow.
    250 gallon stand-alone hot tub. Got it FREE!

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    Re: Liquidator up and running

    Quote Originally Posted by revstriker
    I was able to use the hole where the unused chlorine puck used to connect on the input side, and I was able to connect to the basket drain on the output side. Got the adapters at the home store.

    Hi
    Do you mean the adapters for the 3/8" holes? Did you have any trouble using those 3/8" fittings and clamps supplied with the Liquidator? I have had leak problems with those.
    This is my ticket for Heaven (when all's working..) :
    22k Gal gunite IGP, 38 SF Anthony DE filter, 1 HP Hayward Super Pump
    380k BTU Raypak Natural Gas Heater (Model RP405A) and solar cover
    8 gal Liquidator w/ 12% bleach, Dolphin Diagnostic Advantage robotic cleaner. 3800 ppm salt, 50 ppm borates.

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    Re: Liquidator up and running

    Can anyone tell me how difficult the install of the liquidator is, I am looking at possibly buying one for the beginning of next season; I can't say that I am the most capable person when it comes to that sort of thing but I can definitely follow directions.
    20k gal, vinyl, Sta-rite 1 HP Dyna-Glas pump, Sta-rite System 3 300 Sq ft. Cartridge Filter

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    Re: Liquidator up and running

    Quote Originally Posted by Water_man
    Quote Originally Posted by revstriker
    I was able to use the hole where the unused chlorine puck used to connect on the input side, and I was able to connect to the basket drain on the output side. Got the adapters at the home store.

    Hi
    Do you mean the adapters for the 3/8" holes? Did you have any trouble using those 3/8" fittings and clamps supplied with the Liquidator? I have had leak problems with those.
    No. My Chlorinator had a hose which connected to an adapter that was threaded into the pipe. In order to connect the Liquidator to this, I had to buy a reducer, and then the adapter with the hose nipple. Not sure what the "correct" terms are. I was able to hook up both hoses without needing to drill a hole in my piping and without using any of the supplied clamps.
    10K White Plaster Pool Built in 2007. Hayward Pump and DE Filter, Hayward Navigator, Liquidator (Removed due to issues), Solar Blanket, BBB user.

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    Re: Liquidator up and running

    Quote Originally Posted by revstriker
    LQ is running fine, but I have noticed particles were in the output line to the pump, ...... A quick look in the LQ tank showed that there were tiny particles floating in the tank, ....... I am speculating that the particles might be residual that was on the inside of the LQ tank when I installed it (maybe tiny plastic shavings from the manufacturing process?). It could also be something that was in the bleach (I'm using Walmart brand 6% Bleach).
    I think those particles are from your bleach. The LQ will separate the CL from all the mineral salts and other dissolved solids and allow it to fall out of solution and remain in the unit for disposal. That is why you need to s - l - o - w - l - y pour the bleach in and not allow it to disturb the crud at the bottom. This happened to me and I had to take it apart and clean the LQ, lines and flow valves. Now I pour the bleach into a pitcher and pour it in slowly.
    20x40 24,000 gal IG plaster/CircuPool RJ45 SWG/2 skimmer/2sp 2.5hp Jandy Stealth/340sq ft cart filter/600sqftHeliocol Solar Panels/6ft semi circlr tanning ledge/25ft deep end bench/5ft sheer descent/2 lion head water features/1300sqft travertine paver/2 Colorlogic lights/Hayward Navigator/3step 2ft raised bond beam

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    Re: Liquidator up and running

    Quote Originally Posted by JCJR
    I think those particles are from your bleach. The LQ will separate the CL from all the mineral salts and other dissolved solids and allow it to fall out of solution and remain in the unit for disposal. That is why you need to s - l - o - w - l - y pour the bleach in and not allow it to disturb the crud at the bottom. This happened to me and I had to take it apart and clean the LQ, lines and flow valves. Now I pour the bleach into a pitcher and pour it in slowly.
    I'll take that into consideration. When I added my bleach, I did poor it pretty slow. It didn't appear to stir things up when I poured it in, and the separation happened almost instantly.

    Maybe I'll try to rig up something which will add the bleach much slower (I'm thinking maybe a McGyver'd drip irrigation line or something). I'll have to think about that one. Maybe even putting a piece of cheese cloth over the funnel to pre-filter any particles out of the bleach. Once the current load of bleach has been used up in the LQ, I think I will empty and clean it out good, clean out the gauge which is still not working, and probably replace the lines (instead of cleaning them; I bought 20 feet of line at the Home store for under $4).
    10K White Plaster Pool Built in 2007. Hayward Pump and DE Filter, Hayward Navigator, Liquidator (Removed due to issues), Solar Blanket, BBB user.

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    Re: Liquidator up and running

    Well, I got home today and checked my FC level and it was only 1.0. I went to check the liquidator and discovered that there was no water running though the tube to the pump. I opened the valve all the way, and still nothing. Looking at the gauge, I could see that it was all clogged up. I removed the gauge and I had flow once again. Took the gauge into the house and looked at it with better lighting and could see that there were hard salt (?) deposits. I could not get the ball to move no matter what I did.

    So now I am running just the tube with a valve. But I'm now starting to worry about the valve clogging up. I wonder if there is some way to filter the line? Any thoughts?

    I still like the Liquidator, but over a week later and it is turning out to be more work than just adding bleach to the pool everyday.
    10K White Plaster Pool Built in 2007. Hayward Pump and DE Filter, Hayward Navigator, Liquidator (Removed due to issues), Solar Blanket, BBB user.

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    Re: Liquidator up and running

    I have to believe that there are some weird contaminants in the bleach you are using or some chemical anomaly in your pool. I have not heard of a single other person having such severe and quick buildups. What bleach are you using? Perhaps you should switch brands as a test.
    6000 gal inground fiberglass
    1.5hp pump / sand filter
    Liquidator

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    Re: Liquidator up and running

    I've been using the Walmart brand Ultra Bleach Regular (6%). I've been using BBB in my pool for 2 years, so I'm not using anything out of the ordinary.

    I don't know if it makes a difference, but the way I had the tubing, it came up to where the gauge was (I tied it to a horizontal pipe) and then it ran down to the drain plug on the pump. Not sure if the build up happened because of this high point.
    10K White Plaster Pool Built in 2007. Hayward Pump and DE Filter, Hayward Navigator, Liquidator (Removed due to issues), Solar Blanket, BBB user.

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    Update:

    I had shut off the valve on the LQ because my FC level was high. This was on Monday night. On Tuesday evening at 6pm, I checked FC and it was at 3.0. I turned the LQ on to the lowest setting I could get where I could still see that the water was flowing though the tubes. I went out at 9pm, right before my pump shut off (I run it noon to 9pm) and the level had risen to 4.0. So that's 1 ppm in 3 hours, which would mean the LQ would supply around 3ppm of FC during the run time (yesterday evening was over cast, so I discounted any loss to UV during this test, but I realize there may have been some). This should be a good setting then, based on my experience with the pool. I'll give it another check when I get home tonight, around 6pm again, and see what the change, if any, is from the night before.

    Once again, my set up is with one check valuve on the inlet side only, and I have also removed the bubble gauge as that got clogged up with what appears to be salt.
    10K White Plaster Pool Built in 2007. Hayward Pump and DE Filter, Hayward Navigator, Liquidator (Removed due to issues), Solar Blanket, BBB user.

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