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Thread: First Tests

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    First Tests

    Probably like a lot of other newbies poppin up around here I found you all via the latest Costco Connection. This is my first pool, we bought the house next door via shortsale last year. The pool was in rough shape so we had it replastered in December and replaced the 3/4 HP pump and 100 sqft filter in May. I had been using pucks in a floater since it was replastered and have put maybe 6 bags of shock in since the new equipment was installed. My test kit arrived today and here are the results:

    FC 9
    CC .5
    PH 7.7
    TA 200
    CH 370
    CYA 70

    I am not very confident in the PH but my wife came up with the same guestimate looking at the color. Where do I go from here?

    Max
    11K, IG Plaster, Pentair CCP420 cartridge, 3hp Intelliflo VS, Approx 1974, re-plastered 12/2012

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    Re: First Tests

    I would say that your first priority should be to start working that TA down to avoid scaling. Lower the pH to 7.2 to 7.3 and keep it down by adding acid as needed. Maintain FC at 5 ppm minimum. Read through pool school for more information.

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    Re: First Tests

    +1 what JamesW said. What does your water look like?
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: First Tests

    My water is clear and "sparkly". Does the fact that the pool has been recently replastered have any bearing on the TA level?


    Max
    11K, IG Plaster, Pentair CCP420 cartridge, 3hp Intelliflo VS, Approx 1974, re-plastered 12/2012

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: First Tests

    Quote Originally Posted by Muckmuck
    Where do I go from here?
    Swimming.

    When the pH hits 7.8 (or now, if you're just dying to play with the kit) lower pH to 7.2. That will help lower the TA.

    You DO realize that you're done with pucks and powders for the season, right? CH is already up there, and it will get worse through evaporation, and CYA is already a bit high, even for Las Vegas heat and sun. Costco has decent prices on Chlorox, but shop around a little. Sometimes the big hardware chains or even pool stores have a better price per %-oz on 10 or 12.5% chlorine.

    You will need to keep FC up high enough for that CYA level, as stated above. But if you do, you can pretty much be sure you will never need to "shock" the pool. The good news is, when the water cools down in the winter, and there's less sun, you use a lot less bleach than you do in the winter.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: First Tests

    Does the fact that the pool has been recently replastered have any bearing on the TA level?
    Not much. Regardless of the cause, you need to bring it down either by doing what JamesW suggests or following the article for reducing it in pool school.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: First Tests

    What are the pH, TA and Calcium Hardness of your fill water?

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    Re: First Tests

    Quote Originally Posted by JamesW
    What are the pH, TA and Calcium Hardness of your fill water?
    I will test the fill water tomorrow, our water here is very hard.



    Max
    11K, IG Plaster, Pentair CCP420 cartridge, 3hp Intelliflo VS, Approx 1974, re-plastered 12/2012

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    I'm Back!!!

    I measured the TA of my supply water and it is 170, silly me forgot about measuring the PH and CH of it though. Thursday morning my levels were:
    FC 5
    CC .5
    PH 7.7
    TA 210

    I added 1 quart of 10% Chlorine and 2 quarts of Muriatic Acid which brought my levels to:
    FC 9
    CC .5
    PH 7.0

    I turned on the feed to my slide to aerate and let it go until today. The levels this morning were:
    FC 2
    CC .5
    PH 7.3
    TA 140

    Then I added a quart of Muriatic acid and 1 1/2 quarts of 10% Chlorine which resulted in these levels this afternoon.
    FC 7.5
    CC .5
    PH 7.1

    What should I be shooting for in regards to levels once I get the TA down to a reasonable level?

    Max
    11K, IG Plaster, Pentair CCP420 cartridge, 3hp Intelliflo VS, Approx 1974, re-plastered 12/2012

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: I'm Back!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Muckmuck
    What should I be shooting for in regards to levels once I get the TA down to a reasonable level?

    Max
    http://www.poolcalculator.com/ can help. Plug the pool size into the top. Put your readings into the now column. Down at the bottom of the table, select the pool surface, chlorine source, and troublefree. Boom! NBow you have recommended levels. But not quite....you will never be able to maintain recommended CH levels in Vegas. Well, not without constant water replacement. But you will see a figure called CSI. If your now column shows it between -.6 and +.6, you're okay. Closer to zero is better. Play with pH and TA figures if you need to adjust CSI into range.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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