Electrical run to pool questions

Re: Silly question

Some voltage drop on each wiring run is expected, and is designed into the system. Heavier gauge wire is used on longer runs to keep the voltage drop roughly the same as what it would have been on a shorter run with lighter gauge wire.
 
Re: Silly question

Sorry! :oops:

I was actually trying to add to the topic by sparking discussion through posing another question that I felt was very much related to the OP's original inquiry.
I felt what would be discussed as a result may have further benefited the OP.

I do apologize for my misjudgement.
Thank you for moving the post so it didn't interfere in any way. :thequeen:

With that said, since this is now a separate thread. I have been meaning to ask about burying wire. Is it advised in cold climates to bury it below the frost layer, if so, how do you go about determining frost layer depth?

Edit: With residential homes that have a pool out back and the home's electrical panel on the inside of the garage, at the front of the house. How is an electrical run most effectively and easily accomplished in this situation? One of which I imagine is rather common.
The power drop comes in underground and up through large pvc conduit into the meter box all on the outside of the garage. Then from there, through the garage wall and into the one and only panel on the inside of the garage.
I have an outdoor electrical outlet on the backside of the house already. But IIRC, It's not its own circuit. So that may not work to tie into it.

Note: I changed the title of the thread so it more closely relates to the discussion.
 
The burial depth has much to do with being deep enough that they won't be cut by common yard events, for example a rototiller, and nothing to do with frost line depth.

The wire has to go from the main box to where the pool is. The best way to accomplish that varies dramatically in each situation. Typically it runs some distance indoors, and then transitions to outdoors. The indoor run is frequently convoluted, to match the structural constrains of the building, while the outdoor run will tend to be as much straight line to the destination as possible.
 
For all such electrical issues I would strongly suggest contacting a local electrician, there are some strange rules in the NEC about how things can be ran from sub panels in a garage, and depend on if the garage is a separate structure from the house, if it is considered an occupied or unoccupied structure, etc. Not to mention requirements for local disconnects to be with in line of sight of the equipment, etc.
 
Thanks for the tips and the advice. I know a few electricians of whom would be more than happy to consult for me while I do much of the work.

I was just curious as to how they transitioned from the structure's internal wiring down into the ground to buried wiring was all.
I think I was on the right track from what I was told.

What's the deal with pool lighting. Can you do an IGP style light on an AGP steel walled pool? Obviously you have to cut the hole in the steel and liner. The wall seems straightforward, but what about the liner, how do you get it to seal?
I see the lighting comes in 2 types,12v vs. 120v, advantages, disadvantages?

What about the weight of the light housing that'll be mounted to and through the steel wall. Is that wall thick enough to support it on its own without bowing, or bending out and making a funny indentation on that side of the pool? Or do you have to build an outside support bracket?
 
Y not, for me one electrician recommended the shortest straight run after picking a spot that wouldve avoided digging under the driveway. The next electrician recommended a better location, a little longer but the run wasstraight and it avoided flowerbeds etc. The longer run also provided a better place for an outside junction box for future use, definitely worth the extra digging (bur rhe was extremely hard).
 
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