Help me please. I think my pool is starting toget algae

[c5-1]

Just purchase a home with a pool and still learning how to maintain the pool. I have an inground pool with plaster a hayward superstar clear cartridge filter system with a sta-rite max-e-pro 2 hp pump. Not sure on the pool size. It is a kidney type pool and when I tried measuring it I got about 28' long x 18' wide on one side and 10' wide on the other. 8' deep and shallow side is about 4.5'. I am guesstimating that I have around 20-25 thousand gallons. I live in Modesto CA which is an area that can get pretty hot...were now in the 90's expecting a high of 106 all week.

I have been reading the pool school section for the past couple of days, but I need help NOW given that my pool is starting to get a greenish tint to it. The water is still clear and I can see all the way though the deep end...on the shallow end the water actually looks better with a clear blueish tint.

I have a cheap test kit that I purchased from Orchard supply (and by reading at the school...I will buy a better quality one).

The pool was perfect with clear water and blueish tint a couple of days ago. Not sure if this contributed to my issue, but I cleaned the cartridges on Sunday morning (water was still perfect) and Monday morning I noticed the greenish tint. On monday i did a test and readings showed almost no clorine. I added 2 more 3" tablets to the dispenser and dumped 3 gallons of liquid chorine. This morning I retested...chlorine was fine but ph was very high so I added muriatic acid and now that I re tested I have

FC: 2.5
PH: 7.6

Like I said I am still learning and I think the chlorine and ph are where they need to be, but my pool water still has a greenish tint. Im having family over this weekend...is it safe to swim in it...can I fix this before then?

 

[linen]

Welcome to tfp, c5-1

I would guess your pool volume is close to 17000 gallons, but we will need more detail to be sure (a picture would help).

If the water is clear but tinted, that is often metals (such as iron) in the water. Has the pool been filled recently and if yes, is the fill source a well? Do you know if the previous owner used any metal sequestrant?

As to using trichlor tablets to chlorinate, they also add cya which when it get's too high is a problem. See:http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/types_chlorine_pool Do you know what your cya level is?

Most likely you have too little chlorine in your pool, since you likely have higher cya. But until we know the cya level we won't know what your target should be. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_water_chemistry

 

[c5-1]

Im having trouble attaching the other pictures. I can email them to someone that is more tech savy. The picture attach shows the water condition when I first moved in...now it has a greenish tint to it.

I have not added any water to the pool. The only conditions that have been different in the last month is that I cleaned the cartridge filters a couple of days ago and we are in a current heat wave of about 106 as a temp high all week.

I have no idea what the previous owner did or didnt do (i have been here only a month by the way).

I dont know the cya level...like I said I only have a cheap tester that only test chlorine, ph and acid demand.

I will try to take a sample to the pool store later to see if they can tell me.

 

[linen]

That is a great looking pool

If the water is just tinted but still clear, then it is likely metal (probably iron or copper). See this article for recommended sequestrants: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/metal stains

Post your test results when you get your kit. You need to know you cya asap to know what FC level to keep the pool at. Many of us have the TF-100 since it is the best value. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison

 

[c5-1]

FAC 5
TAC 5
CH 400
CYA 100
TA 90
PH 7.3
Copper 0
Iron 0
Phosphates 300

They are recommending phosfree to reduce the phosphates. Anything else I need? Will this eliminate the greenish tint?

 

[Richard320]

FAC 5
TAC 5
CH 400
CYA 100
TA 90
PH 7.3
Copper 0
Iron 0
Phosphates 300

They are recommending phosfree to reduce the phosphates. Anything else I need? Will this eliminate the greenish tint?

You need chlorine - lots of it. With the CYA 100 (and it's probably higher than that, the testers only go that high) the bare minimum FC level is 8!! You should be targeting about 11, and you're only at 5 right now.

That being said, if you have an algae bloom, you need to get to shock level and keep it there for several days. Shock level for your pool is at least 25.

Sadly, without a proper test kit, there's no way to get trustworthy test results to know what the CYA level is, and to track the FC level during the shock process. So take the money you would have wasted on phosfree and buy one of the recommended test kits. It's in Pool School.

Here's some people who cleared up worse messes than yours. Read how they did it.

first-time-shocking-with-bleach-t45074.html
pretty-black-pool-t58442.html
first-time-pool-owner-t61565.html
a-little-encouragement-for-those-with-algae-and-new-to-bbb-t57137.html
frog-filled-green-swamp-to-oasis-work-in-progress-t48213-20.html be sure to look at page 2
before-and-after-t36785.html
a-final-picture-set-of-how-well-the-bbb-method-works-t33199.html

 

[linen]

There is no need to reduce phosphate in a properly chlorinated pool.

On top of that, pool store results are very unreliable. cya is one the get wrong the most. If their result is right on cya, you would be best served doing a partial/drain refill to get your cya level down to 50 ppm, and stop using the trichlor tabs to chlorinate. However, I would not do that until you confirm it with your own appropriate test kit (in the link above) just in case their result was higher than actual.

If you cya level is 100 (it could easily be higher since most cya test are not very accurate up that high), then you should be maintaining a Free Chlorine (FC) level that is no lower than 8 ppm. The tester you have can only read up to 5 ppm Total Chlorine (TC). Total Chlorine= Free Chlorine + Combined Chlorine (CC...the bad stuff).

 

[c5-1]

I was thinking of getting the TF-100 tester, but given that I need to shock the pool right now as mentioned above is there a store where I can purchase this instead of online. I have people coming over this weekend and I would hate to have algae bloom by then

 

[c5-1]

without a proper tester how much chlorine should I add 5-10 gallons. since the chlorine dissolves with time and sunlight I figure I can add a bunch just to avoid an algae bloom.

 

[linen]

I was thinking of getting the TF-100 tester, but given that I need to shock the pool right now as mentioned above is there a store where I can purchase this instead of online. I have people coming over this weekend and I would hate to have algae bloom by then

It is unlikely you can find anything locally that has the FAS-DPD chlorine test (not to be confused with the DPD test). Dave at tftestkits.net (username duraleigh) has fast shipping and you might have it in 2 days.

without a proper tester how much chlorine should I add 5-10 gallons. since the chlorine dissolves with time and sunlight I figure I can add a bunch just to avoid an algae bloom.

Since you have the OTO Chlorine test, it is difficult to do much more than keep the level over 5 ppm the best you can. Use poolcalculator.com to calculate your dosing.

 

[c5-1]

I ordered the TF 100 test kit and unsure when it will arrive. So what should I be doing now to make sure I dont get algae. I already removed the chlorine tablets...according to pool school the tablets will increase cya levels.

so how often should I add liquid chlorine? How much?

I really do not want to drain the pool and I can shock with my cheap OTO testes...so what should I do? just keep adding liquid chlorine?

 

[c5-1]

I think I have algae but no reliable tester what should I do

Merged threads. Please keep all posts in this thread until the pool is completely cleared. Folks need to have the history to better answer questions. Thanks, Butterfly


I ordered the TF 100 test kit and unsure when it will arrive. So what should I be doing now to make sure I dont get algae. I already removed the chlorine tablets...according to pool school the tablets will increase cya levels.

2 days ago my pool started to show a greenish tint to it, so I suspect i am starting to get algae
The water is still clear and I can see all the way though the deep end...on the shallow end the water actually looks better with a clear blueish tint.

test results from pool store

FAC 5
TAC 5
CH 400
CYA 100
TA 90
PH 7.3
Copper 0
Iron 0
Phosphates 300

so how often should I add liquid chlorine? How much?

I really do not want to drain the pool and I cant shock with my cheap OTO tester...so what should I do? just keep adding liquid chlorine?


Just purchase a home with a pool and still learning how to maintain the pool. I have an inground pool with plaster a hayward superstar clear cartridge filter system with a sta-rite max-e-pro 2 hp pump. It is a kidney type pool and when I tried measuring it I got about 30' long x 18' wide on one side and 10' wide on the other. 8' deep and shallow side is about 4.5'. I am guesstimating that I have around 17-18 thousand gallons. I live in Modesto CA which is an area that can get pretty hot...were now in the 90's expecting a high of 106 all week.

 

[jblizzle]

Re: I think I have algae but no reliable tester what should

Well with a CYA arty least 100ppm, you really should start replacing a lot of water. If the water were clear you might be able to keep it that way by maintaining the FC up above 7ppm at all times. But if algae is present, you need to lower the CYA.

You can try diluting the OTO test with distilled water and scaling the reading, but not very accurate.

You should have the TF100 before the weekend if you ordered early today.

 

[jblizzle]

Re: I think I have algae but no reliable tester what should

Ugh. And now I see you have multiple threads about the same thing. Keep them together.

 

[c5-1]

Re: I think I have algae but no reliable tester what should

Sorry about the multiple threads.

So your saying that if my water is clear I should just keep adding chlorine to keep it above 7ppm. The water right now is very clear (i can clearly see the bottom in the 8' section) It is between blue and a blueish greenish tint...it could go either way

 

[Jeetyet]

I ordered the TF 100 test kit and unsure when it will arrive. So what should I be doing now to make sure I dont get algae. I already removed the chlorine tablets...according to pool school the tablets will increase cya levels.

so how often should I add liquid chlorine? How much?

I really do not want to drain the pool and I can shock with my cheap OTO testes...so what should I do? just keep adding liquid chlorine?

I'm definitely no expert as I'm still learning myself, but, given your circumstances, a history of using Trichlor pucks, with guests coming on the weekend, and not knowing when your test kit will arrive I would probably attempt to get a "head start" on things without too much risk of going overboard.

First, some assumptions. You estimate pool volume at about 20K gallons, another poster at 17K. Split the difference and lets go with maybe 18.5K. Secondly, you have no way to test CYA and don't know whether pool store results are anywhere near accurate. I would suspect their results might be on the low side of actual CYA, but lets do some figuring assuming CYA of 100 and some assuming a level of 50 just to be on the safe side of things. Target levels of FC are about 6 for 50 CYA and 12 for 100 CYA. Shock levels would be 20 and 40 respectively. Given that, one might assume that if you dosed with chlorine at a level below shock level for CYA of 50 and also slightly above normal target level for CYA 100 then you shouldn't be anywhere near "too much". So somewhere between 12 and 20. Again, split the difference, roughly, yielding a target level of around 15.

According to the Pool Calculator each 96oz jug of plain unscented 6% bleach would bump your level (given the volume assumption) by about 2.5 so 6 jugs should get you to 15. I would dump that in now while waiting for your kit to arrive. I would probably also add another jug every day until then assuming that the sun will burn some off and some might be consumed fighting algae. I would also keep checking the chlorine levels the best way you can in the mean time whether using your own testing or the pool store's, possibly both, and that might give you some rough guess of the results of your dosing. IMO this regimen might give you that head start on things while waiting on your kit with the possibility that you could cure your green water before the guests arrive without much risk of being at a chlorine level too high to swim.

If your kit arrives in time and you can get some accurate testing then you might not have to do too much to get things sorted for the weekend and you can work on getting things straightened out the right way afterwards. :-D

 

[Isaac-1]

If the water has a color tint, but is not cloudy your problem may be metals in the water, not algae (metals typically come from either fill water, or from usually un-needed pool store chemicals). For now I would suggest keeping your FC level up and wait for the TF-100 to get there then post updated test results, if the pool store numbers are to be believed (a big IF there), you will need to replace over half your water to get the CYA down to manageable levels, however that only becomes an emergency if you have an algae outbreak, until then all is ok if you maintain proper FC/CYA ratio. You can use your current OTO chlorine test, dilute your pool water sample 1 to 1 with chlorine free water (bottled water will work) then multiply your results by 2 to read in the 5-10 ppm range, maintaining your chlorine levels in the 8-10 ppm range for now. While doing this sort of extended range stretching of the OTO test sort of works the accuracy does suffer, taking this technique and extending it to measure shock level which is at least 39 ppm at a CYA of 100 simply opens up too much range of uncertainty, also shocking with such high FC levels is often economically impractical, compared with the relative cost of water replacement to low CYA then shocking with more attainable FC levels.

Ike

p.s. note if it is metal visibility it may get worse if your raise your FC or pH level another reason not to attempt to shock until you get your test kit. If your going to do anything acting on the side of caution for the weekend events, I would plan on doing considerable water replacement, this will lower your CYA level, as fill water is always CYA free.

 

[c5-1]

Ok I think I figured out how to add the pictures.

I just wanted to show you guys how my pool color is changing

[URL=http://s1292.photobucket.com/u.../albums/b571/c5-1/photo_zps4f785f01.jpg[/img][/url]

[URL=http://s1292.photobucket.com/u...albums/b571/c5-1/photo3_zpsb21cb473.jpg[/img][/url]

[URL=http://s1292.photobucket.com/u...albums/b571/c5-1/photo4_zpsaf507f07.jpg[/img][/url]

[URL=http://s1292.photobucket.com/u...albums/b571/c5-1/photo5_zpse25ec342.jpg[/img][/url]

The first and last picture shows the pool color about a month ago. The greenish tint appeared about 3 days ago.

Im still waiting on the test kit so for now I will add 121oz of the clorox bleach 8% every day (as adviced mentioned above). I did a test with the OTO tester and the color right now is a dark orange...its above 5ppm but unsure by how much. The water smells like chlorine also.

Anything else I should be doing????

 

[Richard320]

Wow! Great looking pool!

 

[duraleigh]

I believe that is iron precipitation, caused by the temporary high pH in your pool. My suggestion is to do nothing. If your pool acts like mine, the green will lighten up each day as the filter removes the precipitated iron and your pool will be back to blue in a few days.

That said, you still have some unrelated big issues with CYA. You should spend some time in pool school learning to understand your pool water chemistry so you can manage this pool with the good test results the TF-100 will give you.

read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry".