Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: What to adjust first for new pool water

  1. Back To Top    #1

    What to adjust first for new pool water

    So glad I found this forum. We've had our pool for three and everything has gone along swimmingly until this year. Then the chlorinator cell failed sometime during the winter. We had iron scale removed and the pool water could never recover. I've paid a service to care for the pool up until this point but the pretty much said the water needs to be replaced. Now I'm taking control and going to do it myself. I've read everything in pool school and many posts here in the forum. The pool was just filled with brand new clean water. Using my brand new my TF100 test kit I get the following results before doing anything to the pool:

    FC 1
    CC 3
    TA 60
    CH 40
    CYA 0
    ph 7.8
    salt 0

    This is where I think I need to be:
    FC 4
    TA 70
    CH 280
    CYA 70
    ph 7.5

    So what should I adjust first?
    20 bags of salt (this is not new plaster)
    2 cups muriatic acid
    2 lb dichlor
    142 oz stabilizer
    885 oz calciu, chloride

    Thanks for any assistance.
    Greg
    IG,34k 20X40,Pebble,cartridge, AquaPure SWG, Jandy stealth 2 hp

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Isaac-1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    SW Louisiana
    Posts
    6,711

    Re: What to adjust first for new pool water

    With CC levels of 3 ppm you likely need to go through the shock process before doing anything else, to complete it you may need to get your CYA level up to about 30 so you don't loose all your FC during the day, once you complete the shock process you can adjust the rest of chemicals levels.

    see
    pool-school/defeating_algae

    p.s. note both CYA stabilizer and dichlor are acidic so you may not end up needing to use any muriatic acid, also you should probably go ahead and get that CH up first so as not to harm the pool finish
    Indoor 20x40 35,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump, Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter, 11 4x12 Techno-Solis solar panels w/ Aquasolar controller, Aquabot Turbo T Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and HotSpring Jetsetter
    I use and endorse TFtestKits TF-100 from http://tftestkits.net
    ~Remember TFP counts on your donations to keep this site ad free~

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Re: What to adjust first for new pool water

    Thanks. I'll start this morning.
    IG,34k 20X40,Pebble,cartridge, AquaPure SWG, Jandy stealth 2 hp

  4. Back To Top    #4
    Isaac-1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    SW Louisiana
    Posts
    6,711

    Re: What to adjust first for new pool water

    Also note that CYA can take a week from the time it fully dissolves to show up on the test, so don't over dose because it does not show up right away. It is also very slow to dissolve so we suggest hanging it in an old sock in front of a return, and squeezing from time to time to speed the process along.

    Ike
    Indoor 20x40 35,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump, Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter, 11 4x12 Techno-Solis solar panels w/ Aquasolar controller, Aquabot Turbo T Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and HotSpring Jetsetter
    I use and endorse TFtestKits TF-100 from http://tftestkits.net
    ~Remember TFP counts on your donations to keep this site ad free~

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: What to adjust first for new pool water

    Can I use liquid stabilizer instead? I'm assuming it dissolves immediately.
    IG,34k 20X40,Pebble,cartridge, AquaPure SWG, Jandy stealth 2 hp

  6. Back To Top    #6
    BoDarville's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    DFW, Texas
    Posts
    3,840

    Re: What to adjust first for new pool water

    +1 to what Issac-1 has suggested. Those directions will put your water in good shape in preparation for the shock process.

    Only thing I will add is once you start the Shock Process, focus on testing FC and CC levels - don't worry about messing with the other parameters until you have completed this process. Chlorine will be consumed rapidly during the shock process, especially in the early stages - that's an entirely normal result of the chlorine doing its job. Therefore, you will need to test and replenish chlorine several times a day to keep FC within the shock range for your CYA (see Chlorine CYA Chart).

    Although you have a SWG pool, you will need plain liquid bleach as your chlorine source during the shock process. The SWG will not produce the amount of chlorine needed for the shock process.

    BTW, you can use liquid stabilizer if you don't mind the fact that it is considerably more expensive and a bit harder to find than granular stabilizer.

    Oh...and...Welcome to TFP
    Gold Supporter, TFP Lifetime Supporter, 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
    A good test kit is an investment, not an expense.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •