New pool - New owner -poolstored?

[tcasto]

Hi all! I am very glad I found this site! Taylor 2006 test kit is on its way but until then I was hoping for some advice. First some background - We had pool installed last October and had pool company winterize and open pool this spring. We are hoping to avoid that expense this year by doing it ourselves. The pool was fine. I used the Aqua test strips every once in a while (I did say I was new at this) . The water started to turn the white steps a little yellow so... I bring a sample into the pool store and get a list of things to add to pool including 3lbs of shock 150 pounds of salt and 6.5 pounds of stabilizer. As soon as I add the shock the water turns emerald green! Pool guy says I have too much metal - tells me to purchase 2 bottles of metal out at a more local pool store. After a day or two the water clears up. Aquacheck strips showed everything in the normal range. A day or two later it starts to look a little yellow so I decided to go to local pool guy. Pool guy#2 says my free chlorine is low and that I need 3 more pounds of shock, a half gallon of muriatic acid, and 2 capfulls (out of a $26 can) of Yellow Treat Algicide.
I follow his directions dumping it all in last night and leaving the filter on. This morning the pool looks crystal clear but when I used the Aquachek strips the FC is 10+ a bright magenta and everything else is normal. I left the solar cover off after reading on this site that the sun will help burn some chlorine off.
So.. Another trip to Pool Guy 2 - I tell him I am concerned with the high FC level - he says "yeah I had to knock it down to 1 so it wouldnt throw off the results of the other tests" ????? Does that mean he cut it with water?? He says the high FC is nothing to worry about but wants me to add Proteam Alkalinity Up, and another quart of muriatic acid. I have spent about 150 bucks on pool chemicals in the past few weeks - so I am very interested in the BBB plan
Here are the readings he got which I am doubtful of:
TC 1.3
FC 1.3 (Aquachek Test repeatedly reads 10+)
ph 8.4
TA 85
Calcium Hardness 225
Stabilizer 55
Salt 3240
Phosphate 800

I told him I was not going to add anything for a day or two. (I am waiting for the Taylor Test kit)
So here are my questions:
1. Should I wait until I get the test kit (July2nd) or should I add baking soda and muriatic acid?
2. If I add the chemicals, how much of each - I tried using the pool calculator and it seems to need a "borate" rating and I dont have that from the pool store test.
3. Should I be worried about the high FC level - is it ok to swim in? Pool guy said sure but ..... I have lost faith

Thanks,
Theresa

 

[RobbieH]

So he's having you add Alkalinity Up to get pH up, and then add Muriatic Acid, to get pH down?

That right there should answer your question about being pool stored.

pH is high, and you ONLY need muriatic acid to bring it down. Alkalinity Up is counterproductive.

Are you using salt water chlorine generator?

You need your kit. Strips are unreliable, and as you can see the pool store can be even less reliable than the strips.

Do NOT add anymore "shock" product unless it is liquid chlorine. Your stabilizer number, if correct (and I am skeptical of that), is already getting too high if you are not using your SWCG, and it's a bit low if you are. Since I don't see it on your list, I'm guessing you do not have one.

Enter 0 in the borate fields. Be sure you fill out the Suggested Goal Levels yellow box near the bottom. troublefreepool.com is your source, bleach is your source of chlorine.

It is only safe to swim when you are below shock level. Poolcalculator will help you figure that out.

 

[harleysilo]

Welcome! Are you running your SWG currently?

 

[tcasto]

Welcome! Are you running your SWG currently?

Hi
Yes, I am , at least I believe so - we have a Intelichlor salt water system and the green lights are all in the good zone.

 

[tcasto]

So he's having you add Alkalinity Up to get pH up, and then add Muriatic Acid, to get pH down?

That right there should answer your question about being pool stored.

pH is high, and you ONLY need muriatic acid to bring it down. Alkalinity Up is counterproductive.

Are you using salt water chlorine generator?

You need your kit. Strips are unreliable, and as you can see the pool store can be even less reliable than the strips.

Do NOT add anymore "shock" product unless it is liquid chlorine. Your stabilizer number, if correct (and I am skeptical of that), is already getting too high if you are not using your SWCG, and it's a bit low if you are. Since I don't see it on your list, I'm guessing you do not have one.

Enter 0 in the borate fields. Be sure you fill out the Suggested Goal Levels yellow box near the bottom. troublefreepool.com is your source, bleach is your source of chlorine.
It is only safe to swim when you are below shock level. Poolcalculator will help you figure that out.

Hi
Thanks, I was suspicious of the adding muriatic acid and alk up for the same reasons - seemed crazy.

 

[RobbieH]

It is crazy.

 

[harleysilo]

So how does your water look right now?

Do you know how to adjust your SWG to generate more or less chlorine?

 

[tcasto]

So how does your water look right now?

Do you know how to adjust your SWG to generate more or less chlorine?

The water looks great! clear and sparkly.
And I did notice directions for lowering and raising the chlorine coming from the Intelchlor system but I was afraid I would mess something up. Should I lower it temporarily or just let the sun do its thing? We had a brief downpour of rain this afternoon which I am hoping will help increase the acid.
I am a bit reluctant to do anything until I get the test kit - it is on its way but is not scheduled to arrive until July1-2. I am hoping for earlier

I just did another aquachek strip and the FC is lower - more of a purple than a magenta - possibly in the normal range. The PH, Alkalinity, and Stabilizer are all in the normal range too.

Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[harleysilo]

I would turn up the SWG percentage run time some. And wait for your kit. Or you can manually dose bleach till then. Adjusting run time should be as simple as pressing a button but I don't have your unit. Have you seen the pool calculator yet? It can tell you how much bleach to add.

 

[easttn]

I have used the Aqua Chem test strips for about 3 years now. They always seem to have consistant readings especially the free chlorine reading. The other readings are so hard to tell the difference between 1 shade of color that I agree they are by no means a way to get accurate numbers. I mainly use them to do a quick estimate of my chlorine level.

If you havent added any borates then you would put in borates = 0. If it is purple then you should be good to swim in it but be sure to keep a check on it. Using strips is better than not checking it.

 

[tcasto]

AAAHHHHHHH! HELP!
Just checked pool with aquachek strips and FC is magenta 10+ again. Kids want to swim today- No one used the pool yesterday and I had solar cover on. It rained last night. I turned down the output on the SWG to 40% from 60% this morning to try to help correct high FC - I just took cover off
1. was it ok to turn SWG down?
2. what can i do ASAP to reduce chlorine? we are having guests
3. Would adding water from the hose help? - Pool doesnt really need it but I would put in some to dilute the FC - Should I?

 

[tcasto]

ok - went back to pool store guy#2 who told me to put 3 bags of shock in the pool on Monday nite
Test results
TC 9.0
FC 9.0
PH 8.2
TA 75
Calcium 200
Stabilizer 0
Salt 3210
Phosphate 300

He gave me a "little bit" of Chlorine Deactivator (about 1 cup of clear crystals)
I put it in skimmer

He told me to bring back a sample this afternoon and to turn down or off the SWG - I tried turning it down to 20% but it keeps resetting to 60%

Any thought out there?

 

[RobbieH]

Why are you going back to the pool store?

You are going to have to figure out which way you are going to go. You can let the pool store assist you, or you can let us assist you. Mixing the two is not going to work.

FC is going to go down on its own, there's no need to purchase a product for this. Adding shock is going to just continue to drive UP your FC, which is what he just sold you a product to bring DOWN. Again, you are getting POOL STORED. A product to bring something down, and a product to bring something up a the same time. They continue to show that they don't know what they are doing, unless their goal is to take all your money.

Turning off the SWG will let your FC float down on its own, just as it should.

 

[tcasto]

Why are you going back to the pool store?

You are going to have to figure out which way you are going to go. You can let the pool store assist you, or you can let us assist you. Mixing the two is not going to work.

FC is going to go down on its own, there's no need to purchase a product for this. Adding shock is going to just continue to drive UP your FC, which is what he just sold you a product to bring DOWN. Again, you are getting POOL STORED. A product to bring something down, and a product to bring something up a the same time. They continue to show that they don't know what they are doing, unless their goal is to take all your money.

Turning off the SWG will let your FC float down on its own, just as it should.

Hi I know, I know (picture head hanging in shame)
I really didnt want to go back - especially because his advice to dump all that shock etc into the pool on Monday night is what caused the problem in the first place. But was desperate for a quick solution so the kids and guests could swim today
The FC is now down at 1.3 (according to a second trip to pool store) so the kids and guests can use it. Aquachek strips say the same.
The SWG is running at 60% which seems to be its pre-set setting. ( I wasnt able to change it - every time I pushed the button to move it down lower, it reset to 60%. I am going to have to find the manual for it.)
My test kit should arrive in the mail by Friday so I will be able to use the pool calculator and get things running smooth using BBB after that.
I appreciate the help and have every intention of taking care of the pool myself because I have gotten conflicting advice and spent $$ to undue what I am told to do.
Thanks again

 

[harleysilo]

Okay so first of all, i can understand wanting to get your chlorine levels right for your kids and guests.

Problem is on the 25th you have CYA tested at 55, and then today it's ZERO!!!! Impossible.

If CYA is 55 you are fine to swim at FC level of 9, if CYA is zero than that level is too high. Who knows what it really is....

If i were you i'd call your SWG manufacture now, during business hours, ask for technical support and get some help adjusting it, that will be the fastest thing to do.

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

Have you decided to get a test kit? If you do you have three choices. 1) get a kit we recommend that is complete. 2) get an ok kit locally and add what is missing to it - this is less cost effective but slightly quicker to get started 3) Get an inadequate kit and waste even more money.

I recommend going with the recommended kits. The idea is for you to have the tools you need to be successful and to buy a cost effective choice.

Once you have a kit and accurate repeatable reliable numbers for CYA and FC as well as all the other relevant numbers then we can get you on track. In the meantime try walking through pool school and learn a bit about how the methods here work.


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[Medic3]

Think about it, the pool store is in business to sell products. They have 1-2 persons working at the counter. On this site there are multiple persons helping other people without motive. Or should I say, their motive is the enjoyment of pools and to help see other people succeed. There is far more collective knowledge and wisdom on this site than any pool store. The best advice I can give you is to read Pool School, follow the great advice here, and be patient. It will all work out, we promise!

 

[Medic3]

I believe she ordered a Taylor 2006 kit.
By the way OP, I believe a lot of us were "pool stored" in the beginning.

 

[easttn]

If you want to save yourself alot of headache, you will want to take time to read the pool school section and understand what it is telling you. Everything you put in the pool has some other side effect by raising or lowering something else. Bleach is the least problematic because all it does is add a little bit of salt with chlorine. You can also play with the pool calculator to see what these side effects are and also it will tell you exactly what you need to do if you know your correct numbers.

Covering the pool will not allow the FC to drop as fast because the sun is not directly hitting the water and it will not let the Combined Chlorine go away as fast. You will have to take this into account when figuring chlorine.

Your pH is way too high. I have to add acid about every 3 days to lower 0.2 points just to give you an example. Make sure your FC is below 10ppm before checking the pH level. A SWG is supposed to aerate the water causing the pH to rise quicker than not aerating, so you may have to adjust pH sooner than what I do it. Just keep an eye on your TA because acid will cause it to drop. All of this is covered in pool school.

Just because you read pool school and understand it does not mean you will not have questions.

Another good idea is to use the pool calculator (when you figure out how to work it) and make you a chart that tells you how much of each chemical (bleach, acid, etc) will raise or lower this and that and print it out.

With all that being said, you will probably want to work on lowering your pH immediately while keeping the FC somewhere in between 3 and 10. You should be fine with the test strips if you can halfway read it. When you get your test kit you will definately want to check out your numbers, especially the CYA and I dont see any reason why you need to go back to the pool store until you use your test kit to see what you really need.

 

[tcasto]

Hi again - Thanks for being there while I get a handle on things..
I got the Taylor 2006 test and used it this morning. I left the solar cover off of the pool the past two nights - It rained and I figured it might help my numbers a bit if i just left it off. I followed the directions on the kit as closely as possible - I want to get this right. I read the directions last night and watched how to videos before I did it this morning.

Here are the results:
FC 7.0 and 7.5 did the test 2x with 2 different samples
PH 7.0
TA 90
CH 170
CYA 95

The CYA worries me - From what I have read on here the only way to lower it is to drain some water. Yikes!
Am I correct in assuming that the CYA got that high because of all the "shock" cr-p the pool stores told me to dump in the pool? Isn't it a by product of that?

Any thoughts on my numbers? Am I in trouble? Is draining in my future? I have a SWG so are my FC ok? Am I going to have to spend a small fortune in bleach to keep the numbers up because my CYA is so high?
I am going to fish around the pool school and the pool calculator for info now that I have my numbers.
Thanks for the help
T