ECO-matic may need replacement?

[Elgrecus]

We have a new pool and I am just getting started sorting things out. The water chemistry is looking good (got the TF-100) but my ECO-matic system is still having trouble even though the salt level is set to the manufacturer's recommended level. It starts out with both lights green but after a few hours light #2 turns red. I believe the cell may be up to eight years old. That's when the house was built. Are there any other reasons the light would be turning red? I just finished shocking the pool about a week ago so the FC level is still high (around 8.0 ppm), so I don't know if the salt system is actually producing chlorine or not. I haven't tried cleaning the cell with diluted acid, but based on a visual inspection it looks pretty clean. Should I just keep going until the FC level drops to around 3.0 ppm and see if the ECO-matic keeps the level up? How will I know if it needs replacing otherwise? Lastly, I've read that the ECO-matic can be more finicky than other systems. Is there any truth to that? Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[Bama Rambler]

With an 8 year old cell it may be failing.
I would clean the cell and see what that does.

 

[Elgrecus]

Thanks. I just got some muriatic acid today. I've noticed very intermittent warning lights. Sometimes everything will be working fine (I think) and other days I get the second red light on quit frequently. And clean the cell and see how it goes.

I guess a better question would be, if it does have to be replaced, should I stick with ECO-matic or go with another maker? I've heard good things about Pentair and Hayward. I'd like to know if others have thoughts on the pros and cons of each manufacturer.

 

[Bama Rambler]

I have no experience with the eco-matic, but any of the major mfgs make good units.

 

[Elgrecus]

Just a little update. I pulled out the cell, and sure enough, it was covered with scale. I cleaned it three times in muriatic acid diluted with water until it came out looking good. Turned on the unit and I've had all green lights for a week now. Now I know another reason why we got rid of the pool guy we hired when we first moved into our new house. He never checked the salt level, didn't clean the cell, and left us with a leaking filter after replacing the cartridges. I did a lot of research here at TFP and our pool is looking really nice. Thanks!

 

[stang50gt95]

I also have an Ecomatic ESC 36 for the last three years. Just FYI (which I wish someone had told me), the MINIMUM salt level is 3000, which means it won't work below that level. But, everything online I have ever read and everything I have learned myself is that it runs better (produces more chlorine) with 4500-5000 salt level. For the first year I had mine, I kept it between 3000-3500 and I would have to keep it max'd out at 100, but when I added more salt, it was producing so much chlorine I had to turn it down to 60. Also most people post that it will help extend your cell's life. Just thought you'd like to know.

 

[Elgrecus]

Thanks for the information. I read the owner's manual and have the salt level at 4,500 ppm. It makes the water pretty salty, but I wanted to started with the manufacturer's recommendation. I shocked my pool last month and the FC level was pretty high. I let it come down a bit and then cleaned/turned on the ECO-matic. I figured that the FC level would slowly drop to something reasonable however it is still pretty high. I think you've identified what is going on. The ESC-36 is cranking out too much chlorine. I'm going to turn it down like you suggest and let the FC drop some. Thanks again.