First test results

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tmrobinson

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Jun 13, 2013
23
Central VA
I just got my k-2006 test and these are the results I got. My pool is cloudy, I can see the bottom of the shallow end but not in the deep. We just moved into this house two weeks ago and the pool was green when I started. I didn't know better and went to the pool store recommended by the previous owners. So far everything the store has had me try has not worked so I decided to do some searching online myself and ended up here.

CYA 30 I am not really sure about this, I could still see the black dot at the bottom of the tub but it was full so I am guessing this is the lowest reading the test allows

Ph 7.8
FC .4
CC .6
TA 110
 
Assume your CYA is zero. Buy enough to get it to 30 ppm. Put it in right away.

read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School, then read "How to Shock Your Pool" .

Lower your pH down to around 7.2

Start the shock process using only bleach. The shock process is rather involved so follow that article explicity and ask questions rather than guess or assume something.

It may take a few more days, but your pool will clear.
 
Where can I buy CYA?

duraleigh said:
Assume your CYA is zero. Buy enough to get it to 30 ppm. Put it in right away.

read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School, then read "How to Shock Your Pool" .

Lower your pH down to around 7.2

Start the shock process using only bleach. The shock process is rather involved so follow that article explicity and ask questions rather than guess or assume something.

It may take a few more days, but your pool will clear.
Click to expand...
 
You need to follow the shock process, pool-school/shocking_your_pool.

Is the CYA test tube cloudy at all or is it clear when filled to the top. If it is cloudy, consider your CYA to be around 20, if it is nice and clear you have zero CYA. It is best to have the CYA between 20-30 to start. If you need to add CYA, put it in a sock and suspend it over a return. If you add it to the skimmer it will get backwashed out before it dissolves.

Start off by lowering the pH to 7.2 and then start adding liquid chlorine. Your target FC level will be in the link above and keep it there as long as possible. You will be finished with the shock process when the pool passes three criteria: water is clear, CC is .5 or less, and the pool passes the OCLT pool-school/overnight_fc_test.

To save on reagents for testing FC, use 10 ml of water for the FAS-DPD test and count each drop as .5 ppm.
 
When filled to the top the tube is a little cloudy, it is not clear so should I add some CYA or just start the shock process? Also, to lower the pH I add the muriatic acid but how much? I am guessing that is where the pool calculator comes in and I have looked at it a couple times but it is really confusing me.

ping said:
You need to follow the shock process, pool-school/shocking_your_pool.

Is the CYA test tube cloudy at all or is it clear when filled to the top. If it is cloudy, consider your CYA to be around 20, if it is nice and clear you have zero CYA. It is best to have the CYA between 20-30 to start. If you need to add CYA, put it in a sock and suspend it over a return. If you add it to the skimmer it will get backwashed out before it dissolves.

Start off by lowering the pH to 7.2 and then start adding liquid chlorine. Your target FC level will be in the link above and keep it there as long as possible. You will be finished with the shock process when the pool passes three criteria: water is clear, CC is .5 or less, and the pool passes the OCLT pool-school/overnight_fc_test.

To save on reagents for testing FC, use 10 ml of water for the FAS-DPD test and count each drop as .5 ppm.
Click to expand...
 
You can start the shock process now and add enough CYA in a sock to raise it by 15 ppm which should be 50 oz.

According to the pool calculator you should be needing 108 oz of full strength MA. To get this number, make sure you enter 25,000 in the size of your pool at the top of the calculator page. Enter 7.8 on the left side of the pH which is the now amount and enter 7.2 to the right of it for your target or goal amount. Looking to the right of that it has your options for the different types and strength of acid to use and it calculates how much you need.
 
Ok, I did a little shopping and just want to double check before I start putting stuff into my pool.

I picked up some muriatic acide from Lowes and with the pool calculator and the % I got off the bottle it says I should add 68 oz to drop my pH from 7.8 to 7.2. Is this the right stuff?
http://www.lowes.com/pd_206474-34228-CR ... facetInfo=

I went to Walmart and found Stabilizer that says the active ingredient is CYA and again with the calculator I need 50 oz. to go from a 20 to a 35 which I think is the whole bottle. I put this in a sock and hang it in front of the returns?
 

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It is easiest for me to pour it slowly straight from the jug into the pool over a return with the pump running. Some people like to mix it in a bucket of water first then pour it over the return. The bucket can then be filled with water from the pool and dumped into the pool to kind of help distribute the acid some more. That step is not needed, but I have used it myself in the past and it doesn't hurt anything. It also washes out the bucket. Measure the pH about half an hour later to see what it reads and if it needs more adjustment you can go ahead and add more acid.

Your calculations are correct for the amount of acid to add and that is the full strength acid. I messed up earlier by having borates in the calculator which would require more acid than what you need.
 
Yes, you can vacuum during this process. Make sure you are brushing everyday also.

It is best to raise the FC to shock level as often as you can. Hourly adjustments are best if you can manage. At the start of the shock process, the FC will be consumed the fastest and will need to be replenished often. Once the chlorine gets ahead of the algae you wont have to test or adjust as often. At the beginning you need to constantly hit the algae hard to win this battle. The more time you stay at shock level, the faster the water will clear.
 
ping said:
Yes, you can vacuum during this process. Make sure you are brushing everyday also.

It is best to raise the FC to shock level as often as you can. Hourly adjustments are best if you can manage. At the start of the shock process, the FC will be consumed the fastest and will need to be replenished often. Once the chlorine gets ahead of the algae you wont have to test or adjust as often. At the beginning you need to constantly hit the algae hard to win this battle. The more time you stay at shock level, the faster the water will clear.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks. I will check more often, had to run out to the store (under estimated the amount of bleach I would need) and fix lunch for the kids so it went a little longer.

Vacuumed what I could see and then brushed the whole pool. FC had only dropped to 10.5 from goal of 12 so just had to add a little more bleach. The pool really didn't get much cloudier than it already was when I brushed the bottom of the deep end that I can't see. When I did this last week it turned the whole pool almost back to green.
 
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