New Build Quote

Apr 7, 2013
60
NJ
I thought about doing the DIY and subing out everything but with a third child on the way and work I do not think I will have the time or patience to do it myself. So I have been getting quotes from local pool builders. Here is my most recent from a pretty well respected family company here in New Jersey, they have been in business for over 50 years installing and servicing pools.

Mountain Lake shape, free form pool Approx: 40 feet Long by 20 feet wide total surface area of 685 sq ft.
8 feet deep to 3.5 shallow.
All excavation, backfilling, grading and removal of dirt included.
Vericon concrete bottom
3 year parts and labor on all installed equipment.
10 Inch thick 48 inch high Aqua-Krete rebar reinforced 4000psi concrete walls. (life time warranty on walls labor and parts).
1/4 inch thick isomer foam wall cushion on walls.
28/28 mil vinyl liner (25 year blame free warranty).
8 foot wide Concrete steps and 6 foot long deep end seat both covered by vinyl liner.
4 feet of cantilever edge 4000psi fiber mesh concrete around entire pool. ($6 dollars a sq ft for extra).
All Sch 40 PVC 1.5 inch returns 2 inch suction.
2 Skimmers (2 inch).
2 Main drains (2 inch).
4 returns (1.5 inch).
All lines plumed individually
All Sch 80 PVC self-lube ball valves.
Pentair Easy Touch control system
Pentair SD-80 Clear Pro Filter.
Pentair Intelliflo Variable speed 3HP pump.
Pentair IC-40 Salt system.
Nature 2 Mineral system.
One Pentair 500 watt light.
Polaris 9300 Cleaner.
White PVC handrails and steps.
Solid Safety cover and pump.
All Electrical included with upgraded 60 amp sub panel for future upgrades
All Start up chemicals, salt, Mineral cartridge, pools, hoses, skimmers, etc.

Grand Total: $38,725.00.

Any input, criticism, ideas, etc are welcome and needed. Thanks in advance everyone...
 
Get ride of the Nature2 Mineral System, if you search here you will find a decent amount of negative reviews. I'd also put another light in the pool, one is probably not enough for that size. I'd also get a heater, I am in SE PA and have used my heater a bunch so far to keep the pool around 85F, we've got alot of use out of it so far this year.
 
First and foremost ... ditch the Nature 2 and mineral cartridge (search the site if you want to know why).

The filter is too small. That is a 26" sand filter. If the pool is around 27k gallons, we would suggest a 30" at a minimum (although with a shorter season, you may be able to get buy with a smaller one).

I see no variable flow rate requirements, so the VS pump is not likely needed ... and certainly not the 3HP monster. You could certainly get by with a 1 to 1.5 HP 2-speed pump ... especially if your electrical cost is not very high. Or look at the smaller VS pumps that Hayward has (although that could affect your warranty term on the pump).

Seriously consider 2 lights if you think you may convert to colored bulbs in the future (assuming that actually uses a bulb).
 
Thanks for the quick replies. The pool sales guy kept beating me up about getting a second light also, said he would get it at his own house if he was getting this big of a pool. I will do some reviews on the nature 2 system. As for the heater, he is pushing the heat pump on me instead of the gas heater any comments on either?
 
Definitely want more than one light, both on opposite ends facing away from the main party/house area(glare)?
Plumb for future features now if possible (slide, fountain, waterfall, laminar jets etc.)
Your easy touch system should already includes a 125amp sub panel(Easytouch 4 or 8)With the IC40 SWg integration do you really need another 60 amp?
Even if you don't purchase the indoor panel for the Easytouch right now- have them run the conduit from the panel to the house. (you can pull the wire later, simple 22 gauge)
What about outdoor sound or future kitchen area?
Now is the time to put in any electric or water.
Post pics as you progress.
 
Just an update, I had the pool sales guy back out at the house and had him add a second light to the pool package and got the price down to $38,000 including everything listed above, but any additional concrete is extra. I asked about getting a smaller 2 speed pump instead of the intelliflow variable speed but he stated that if I want the 3 year parts and labor on all equipment that I need to keep all equipment Pentair.
 
Question, has anyone installed their own safety cover mesh or solid. The pool company is quoting me 4600 for a solid safety cover which I think is insane. So I am thinking about ordering the cover myself and doing a self install?
 
Technically he is sort of right about the warrant. Pentair extends the warranty from 1 to 3 years when you buy 3 pieces of hardware at the same time. The Easytouch, SWG, and filter would be 3 so they would be extended to 3 years regardless if you got a Hayward pump. Now the Hayward pump may only have a 1 year warranty ... so that is how he is technically right saying "3 years on ALL equipment".

What he is wrong about is saying you have to get the Intelliflo (although maybe he did not say that exactly). Pentair makes small 2-speed pumps and those would certainly qualify for the extended warranty.
 
kjm11379 said:
Question, has anyone installed their own safety cover mesh or solid. The pool company is quoting me 4600 for a solid safety cover which I think is insane. So I am thinking about ordering the cover myself and doing a self install?

Yes, I installed my mesh safety cover. I sent my pool diagram(got it from manufacturer) to the cover company, they fabricated the cover and shipped it to me. (included all the locks/sleeves for the concrete, the springs, the tool to install/remove cover plus instructions)

It was very easy to do, wife and I pulled the cover taunt put cider blocks on it to hold in place, measured per instructions, readjusted numerous times to make sure we were even all the way around. I drilled all the holes, she cleaned them out and tapped in the sleeve/lock screws.

Just make sure you are very accurate with your measurements, wear safety gear and make it happen.
For $4600.00 you should be getting an automatic cover.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Well, the permits have been submitted and the waiting game begins. PB hopes to be digging by the end of July... Here was the first stage of the Pool Build, a DIY (with electrician buddy) electrical service upgrade from 150 AMP service to 200 AMP service. The 150 AMP panel was full and we plan on putting in a heat pump so we are going to need the extra space and AMPs....
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    80.7 KB · Views: 1,063
Yes. We are doing a total of about 450 sq ft of extra concrete in addition to the standard 4 feet around pool...We tried not to get crazy because we have a 650 sq ft raised paver patio above and behind the pool area close to the house.
 
I'm not sure what you mean about knowing how to read the topo. The numbers represent the elevations relative to some chosen datum. Basically, it shows your pool rim about 1 1/2 ft. lower than your patio. In the open areas, the continuous lines with a number in the middle of them indicate that the ground is at the same elevation along it.
 
That was my question how do I determine what my slopes and grade will look like after the pool is in. Will they be sharp slopes, will I need to put in retaining walls or cuts walls, etc. I was unsure what each number stands for and how did they come up with the specific numbers. I think I am starting to grasp it a bit better after your explanation.
 
You have pretty gentle slopes there, almost flat. Steep slopes on a topo map will be indicated by contour lines (that is what the elevation lines are called) that are very close together. The wider the spacing, the flatter it is.

Pool looks pretty sweet by the way. I'm planning to put in my own so I'm going to stick with a full-l and straight sides. That should be enough of a nightmare for me.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.