Metal framed pool and SWG

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KrisIL

KrisIL

LifeTime Supporter
Apr 3, 2012
469
Illinois
Pool Size
21000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello Guys
I have a summer escape metal frame pool which I take down every year. Over the weekend I did put it up again. Now I cannot decide if I should use the SWG this year because last year it give me a looooot of problems. If remember correctly then it was an error 91 . What I remember for sure is that I have to clean the plates every 3-4 days otherwise I get the error.
Do you guys think I should give it a try this year also? Maybe somebody have a good step by step to make sure the unit works as it should?
Let me ask. Should I first do the steps described in Pool School -> Water Balance for SWGs and then stick with BBB method?
 
Looking at your thread from last year I think it is possible much of your problem had to do with your very high TA causing build up on the plates. Were you able to get your TA down then?

How do your plates look? Is there any buildup on them/between them?
 
Linen I took down the pool for winter. Past weekend I set it up back again and will finish fill it up tonight. I would love to use the SWG system so since this is a new set up can you guys help me from beginning so I will be able to use the SWG?
What I should do first after I finish filling up the pool?
 
Have you reviewed this pool school article this year?: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/water_balance_saltwater_generator

Where you able to get TA lower last year? I think that will be the key to having less build up on your swg this year. My TA coming out of our well is typically up in the 300 ppm range. If I don't drop it down into the recommended range (in the doc linked above), I will also have scaling.
 
Yes I did read the article (couple times) and I just wasn't sure if this should be my first procedure. I purchase last year TF100 test kit and will test the water chemistry tonight. After that will post the results here.
Linen may I ask you a question on why you have your copper bars disconnected?
 
Pysiek said:
After that will post the results here.
Click to expand...
Do that and then we can suggest an approach.

Pysiek said:
Linen may I ask you a question on why you have your copper bars disconnected?
Click to expand...
I didn't want staining or my swimmers blond hair to turn green. Basically there is no need for adding copper to a properly chlorinated residential swimming pool.
 
linen said:
I didn't want staining or my swimmers blond hair to turn green. Basically there is no need for adding copper to a properly chlorinated residential swimming pool.
Click to expand...
So do you recommend it if I will be able to stabilize everything?
 
I supposed to take measurements last night but instead my wife let me do some stuff :-( . But anyway I was able to start the pump and put salt in. Should I take measurements before I run SWG? Or after? My concern is that is TA is too high again I would like to bring it down first before I start my SWG. Do not want to clean the cells before friday :)
 
You will need to get your pool balanced BEFORE turning on the swcg. There isn't a generator out there that will bring up the FC fast enough from 0.0 to prevent algae.

Your best course of action is use the start-up procedures outlined in Pool School, Lower your TA, then think about turningon the swcg.
 

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Charlie_R said:
You will need to get your pool balanced BEFORE turning on the swcg. There isn't a generator out there that will bring up the FC fast enough from 0.0 to prevent algae.

Your best course of action is use the start-up procedures outlined in Pool School, Lower your TA, then think about turningon the swcg.
Click to expand...
Okay. Hopefully my wife will leave me alone tonight :whip:
 
Keeping it uncovered will help. More importantly doing something purposeful like turning up a return so that the water breaks the surface or going even further and setting up a fountain/spray from your return will speed ph rise due to aeration. You have a lot to do.
 
I'm planning to make a water fountain out of PVC later that will attach to return. Now my return is pointing downward because I put salt last night in the pool and I want it to dissolve.
 
This is my first attempt at a water director for my pool. I was still using the small pump that came with the pool at the time. I have since made another one without the copper tube.



Using that same idea and PVC pipe, here is the aerator I used last year to lower my TA.

 
That was still the small Intex molded in return. The larger return fittings still have the smaller threads inside the larger threads. Yours may have that since your pool seems to use the same style larger pump/filter/hoses.

I used the small return eye, just removed the rotating part and opened the hole to use a threaded fitting from the inside into a threaded elbow. I did have to shave the inner fitting a bit to allow room to screw it onto the return.
 
I did not know you can remove the middle rotating "eye" . Will try hopefully tonight and design a fountain. But I was also thinking of making a PVC return pipe from SWG to the pool so I will be able to put a "T" connector and make the fountain from the side of the pool. Something like this guy here: http://www.troublefreepool.com/download/file.php?id=25815
 

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