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Thread: Plumbing renovation, checking for leaks and need to backfill

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    Join Date
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    Plumbing renovation, checking for leaks and need to backfill

    Additional info, it took 2&1/2 days from 930 til dark, 60 feet of PVC, 13 street elbows, 28 normal 90s, and all the valves.

    I like the simplicity to run the spa from the everyday operation. Only need to turn two valves.

    Check it out.



    Tfpools,

    I'm replumbing, and gonna start next week. I've attached before shots.
    Current problems include:
    chlorinator runs through all returns including spa, so when heated and not chlorine turned down or off spa water gets super chlorinated,
    Booster pump breaks off before spa, so when spa running booster valve must be closed else spa drains.

    Plans include:
    Jandy 3 way, 2 ways, and checks
    Hayward unions

    Spa vs. all other suctions with 3 way
    Dual skimmers with 3 way
    Wall drain with 2way
    Close unions on pump and multiport valve
    Heater diverted with 3-way and check
    3-way to separate spa return from others
    Booster pump pulled from returns after spa diverter
    Then chlorinator, then 3 way to wall returns

    Using the mitre saw for cuts, red hot PVC cement for glue (Oatey or Christy's)
    Plenty of Teflon tape and magic lube II

    Other tips are welcomed.

    Dan
    Thanks,

    Dan
    18' x 36' and 8' to 3' D vinyl, 26,500 gallon Cl- 8.25% Bleach, Pro 244T, 2HP Super Pump, PB4 Booster for a 280

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Plumbing renovation

    Welcome to tfp, danringer

    The first thing that comes to mind when looking at your plan is I wouldn't worry about moving the chlorinator. That is a trichlor puck chlorinator, and constant use will quickly raise your cya level high. Here at tfp we do not recommend trichlor feeders as the regular source of chlorine. See this pool school article: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-..._chlorine_pool
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Plumbing renovation

    To me it looks like the positioning of the plumbing is going to make some of your plans hard if not impossible. I don't see how your going to isolate the spa vs all other suction with a 3 way. I would use a 3 way to divert one side to spa/skimmer and wall drain/broken skimmer. Then a 3 way to divert between spa and skimmer and another for wall drain and broken skimmer. i would have the same set up on the return side. Since your not automating, you have to go turn the spa valves anyway, so i dont really see what the problem with closing the booster too.

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    duraleigh's Avatar
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    Re: Plumbing renovation

    This is just a bit off the main point, but however you end up re-plumbing, I suggest you switch to Jandy or Pentair valves and get rid of those cheaper ball valves. I initially installed the ball valves and each one of mine became unusable after about 4 years. I had to replace them all and have been troublefree since.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Plumbing renovation

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    Welcome to tfp, danringer

    The first thing that comes to mind when looking at your plan is I wouldn't worry about moving the chlorinator. That is a trichlor puck chlorinator, and constant use will quickly raise your cya level high. Here at tfp we do not recommend trichlor feeders as the regular source of chlorine. See this pool school article: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-..._chlorine_pool
    50 lbs of 3" sticks lasts me a season May-October in South Jersey, how much liquid Cl- would I need in a typical season for 18000 IGP? and can I purchase it at once for the whole season? My CYA has never been out of control with these 99% 4.5" sticks. But I like liquid Cl- for opening and fixing problems fast.
    Thanks,

    Dan
    18' x 36' and 8' to 3' D vinyl, 26,500 gallon Cl- 8.25% Bleach, Pro 244T, 2HP Super Pump, PB4 Booster for a 280

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    Re: Plumbing renovation

    Quote Originally Posted by keene3b07
    To me it looks like the positioning of the plumbing is going to make some of your plans hard if not impossible. I don't see how your going to isolate the spa vs all other suction with a 3 way. I would use a 3 way to divert one side to spa/skimmer and wall drain/broken skimmer. Then a 3 way to divert between spa and skimmer and another for wall drain and broken skimmer. i would have the same set up on the return side. Since your not automating, you have to go turn the spa valves anyway, so i dont really see what the problem with closing the booster too.

    I'm gonna dig, and make the impossible possible! I definitely want to entertain automation for the future, so the single 3 way to plumb out the spa (suction and return) is a priority. I want to make the switch from pool to spa easy enough for my wife to use when I'm at work, I'd like to minimize the valves necessary and leave it automation ready for the next year or two.
    Thanks,

    Dan
    18' x 36' and 8' to 3' D vinyl, 26,500 gallon Cl- 8.25% Bleach, Pro 244T, 2HP Super Pump, PB4 Booster for a 280

  7. Back To Top    #7
    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Plumbing renovation

    Something does not add up

    50 lbs of trichlor will raise your 18000 gallon pool to 182 ppm cya...an extremely high amount On top of that, it is unlikely you are starting very low in the spring if this is your standard method of chlorinating, so you end of season cya level is likely even higher than that

    And here is another confusing part of the equation...as your cya goes up the amount of FC needed to maintain (safely) a algae free pool also goes up. Lets say at the beginning of the year, due to draining for the winter and other water changes getting pool ready, you are at 100 ppm cya at that point you need to maintain a minimum FC level of 8 ppm. At the end of the season with 100 + 182 = 282 ppm cya you need to maintain a minimum FC level of 21 ppm

    Quote Originally Posted by danringer
    how much liquid Cl- would I need in a typical season for 18000 IGP?
    If you shot for a reasonable cya of 50 ppm, dosed to 6 ppm everyday to stay above 4 ppm (assuming 1/3 lost to the sun), then I approximate it might take about 51 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine for 6 months.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Plumbing renovation

    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    This is just a bit off the main point, but however you end up re-plumbing, I suggest you switch to Jandy or Pentair valves and get rid of those cheaper ball valves. I initially installed the ball valves and each one of mine became unusable after about 4 years. I had to replace them all and have been troublefree since.
    I've replaced 7 of them and 3 more need to be replaced now ( barely turn without a wrench). I bought 5 jandy neverlube 3-way, one 2-way and 1 jandy check valve.

    thank you all for contributions so far

    -Dan
    Thanks,

    Dan
    18' x 36' and 8' to 3' D vinyl, 26,500 gallon Cl- 8.25% Bleach, Pro 244T, 2HP Super Pump, PB4 Booster for a 280

  9. Back To Top    #9

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    Re: Plumbing renovation

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    Something does not add up

    50 lbs of trichlor will raise your 18000 gallon pool to 182 ppm cya...an extremely high amount On top of that, it is unlikely you are starting very low in the spring if this is your standard method of chlorinating, so you end of season cya level is likely even higher than that

    And here is another confusing part of the equation...as your cya goes up the amount of FC needed to maintain (safely) a algae free pool also goes up. Lets say at the beginning of the year, due to draining for the winter and other water changes getting pool ready, you are at 100 ppm cya at that point you need to maintain a minimum FC level of 8 ppm. At the end of the season with 100 + 182 = 282 ppm cya you need to maintain a minimum FC level of 21 ppm

    Quote Originally Posted by danringer
    how much liquid Cl- would I need in a typical season for 18000 IGP?
    If you shot for a
    reasonable cya of 50 ppm, dosed to 6 ppm everyday to stay above 4 ppm (assuming 1/3 lost to the sun), then I approximate it might take about 51 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine for 6 months.
    wow! Local pool store always says my stabilizer is low and says my sticks are ****, i by them online from intheswim.com and not from him, he even sold me 4 lbs of CYA to bring it up this year. I recently denounced using the local pool store, bought your tftestkit, and while I'm learning the kit I still use the dip sticks to compare.

    Today's tftestkit:
    pH=7.2
    FC=7ppm
    CC=0.5ppm
    TC=7.5ppm
    TA=75
    CH=415
    CYA=70

    Dip stick:
    pH=7.2
    FC=5-10 (pad color between 5-10)
    TA=120
    CYA=30-50 (between pads)

    I do lower the level pretty far to winterize, and vacuum to waste when opening and top off with well water (filtered) maybe that accounts for the low CYA with these sticks or they may be **** like the guy says and not have enough stabilizer which may make them behave better by not overrunning the pool with CYA
    Thanks,

    Dan
    18' x 36' and 8' to 3' D vinyl, 26,500 gallon Cl- 8.25% Bleach, Pro 244T, 2HP Super Pump, PB4 Booster for a 280

  10. Back To Top    #10

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    Re: Plumbing renovation, checking for leaks and need to back

    Had to make a new post for the rear pic. Over the file size limit.
    Thanks,

    Dan
    18' x 36' and 8' to 3' D vinyl, 26,500 gallon Cl- 8.25% Bleach, Pro 244T, 2HP Super Pump, PB4 Booster for a 280

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