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Thread: clarrification on TFP shock procedure

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    clarrification on TFP shock procedure

    I got my TFT-100 and already love the precision of the FAS test.

    I used the calculator and put in my bleach to shock and hit my target right on when checked in 2 hours. Plan to check water in AM before sun gets to pool.

    I was reviewing the overnight test and shock procedures and have a 2 questions:

    1. Does it matter what the FC level is for the OCLT? Can I measure it at shock level or should I let the sun burn it down to 5 or so to do the test? I doubt I will be able to keep the shock level through the day tomorrow (forecast over 100 degrees sunny) and I'll be at work.

    2. My CC is reading 0.5 (just 1 drop re-cleared) - did I read the shock procedure correctly that if I drop no more than 1 ppm FC and my CC is STILL 0.5 then I'm "done with shocking"? I thought I wanted 0 CC - in fact that's why I went ahead and shocked without doing an OCLT first. My water is very clear but I have recently had a few little green algae spots on the steps; so I assumed it needed shocking.

    In other words, is it ok to have a pool with CC (0.5 or less) if the overnight drop in FC is less than 1 ppm? And is the OCLT just as valid at a starting value of 16 as it would be at a level of 5?

    Thanks in advance.
    25,000 gal in-ground gunite with spa and waterfall, Jandy Aquapure 1400 SWG, Jandy CL580 cartridge filter, Raypak gas heater

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: clarrification on TFP shock procedure

    1. I prefer the OCLT to be done at an elevated FC or shock valve. So no reason to wait for it to drop.

    2. It is completely normal to have some CC show up sometimes. If you only see 0.5ppm, then it is nothing to worry about.

    Sounds like this may be a VERY short shock process.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    jcowart's Avatar
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    Re: clarrification on TFP shock procedure

    You can do the over night test at any FC. Just looking for less than 1ppm drop. Look at .5 as zero. and water clear.

    EDIT: Dang your fast.
    17500 gallon Doughboy AGP, Hayward DE filter, waiting for the 1.5hp DB pump to go out.
    Learn to take the advice here and be trouble free or use the pool store's advice. "You can't do both and get very far"

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: clarrification on TFP shock procedure

    Quote Originally Posted by jcowart
    EDIT: Dang your fast.
    what do you mean ... you had 9 minutes to beat me on this one
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
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    Re: clarrification on TFP shock procedure

    ok, thanks guys
    25,000 gal in-ground gunite with spa and waterfall, Jandy Aquapure 1400 SWG, Jandy CL580 cartridge filter, Raypak gas heater

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    Re: clarrification on TFP shock procedure

    A follow up question:

    OK so my FC stayed at shock value (16 for cya of 40) and CC stayed at 0.5 and my water is clear so I think I'm done shocking.

    My question is that I got a late start last night any raised the FC up at about 9 PM, confirmed shock level at 11 PM, and then my AM test for the OCLT was at 6:40 AM - so the "OVERNIGHT" delta time was 11 PM to 0640 or 7 hours, 40 mins - was this long enough to see the 1 ppm drop if I were going to?

    Thanks (again)
    25,000 gal in-ground gunite with spa and waterfall, Jandy Aquapure 1400 SWG, Jandy CL580 cartridge filter, Raypak gas heater

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: clarrification on TFP shock procedure

    Yes. You are done shocking
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

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    Charlie_R's Avatar
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    Re: clarrification on TFP shock procedure

    I am just curious, did you actually have an algae problem? Or were you shocking your pool just because that seems to be the routine suggested by almost every pool store?

    If it was a "routine shock", I think you will find that if you keep good control over your pool chemistry, you will almost never have to "shock" your pool.

    Now that you have a great test kit, you will be able to watch your balance a whole lot better than if you were relying on PS testing.
    15'x48" 4500 gallon Intex pool, buried 1.5 ft. Pac-Fab Dynamo 3/4 hp pump. Hayward S180T sand filter, bought used. Taylor K-2006 test kit. Rocket mass heater based wood fired pool heater.

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    Re: clarrification on TFP shock procedure

    Charlie_r:

    I have another thead on my saga. Was posting here because it was shock question. I had begun to see little round spots of slimey green algae. My SWG was broken. I was pool stored and wound up with way high cya. I did a partial drain refill and it rained 8 inches that day and only then did my water turn cloudy. I fohnd this place and decided to use bleach until I fix the SWG. So I had to order tft-100. I used left over lithium hypochlorate to shock in meantime and that did clear water but cojld not measure fc over 5 so not sure if it completely worked so thats why I shocked once I got the tft 100 and did oclt per pool scool
    25,000 gal in-ground gunite with spa and waterfall, Jandy Aquapure 1400 SWG, Jandy CL580 cartridge filter, Raypak gas heater

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    Charlie_R's Avatar
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    Re: clarrification on TFP shock procedure

    Thanks for the brief summary. That will teach me to check for other threads first.
    15'x48" 4500 gallon Intex pool, buried 1.5 ft. Pac-Fab Dynamo 3/4 hp pump. Hayward S180T sand filter, bought used. Taylor K-2006 test kit. Rocket mass heater based wood fired pool heater.

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