CYA very high

:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! :wave:

Next step is to re-test the water and find out where you are at. So you should order one of the Recommended Test Kits ASAP.

I would not try to balance anything until you can have reliable, repeatable tests. IT just so happens that the CYA test is the one the pool stores are the worst at getting right ... so maybe you needed to replace 50% ... or maybe more ... or maybe less.
 
Step one, order one of the test kits we recommend (see my signature), step 2 read the pool school link in the upper right of this page, step 3 reread pool school, step 4 ask questions, by then you will know step 5, 6 7...
 
^ What they said.

My experience with pool store vs. my testing using a TF-100 is that the CYA test has the biggest variance. I have taken a few samples to the pool store, just for grins. Each and every time, their CYA result was twice what mine was. If I didn't know any better, I would have needlessly drained & refilled water several times.
 
BoDarville said:
^ What they said.

My experience with pool store vs. my testing using a TF-100 is that the CYA test has the biggest variance. I have taken a few samples to the pool store, just for grins. Each and every time, their CYA result was twice what mine was. If I didn't know any better, I would have needlessly drained & refilled water several times.
Thanks for the advice I just ordered the test kit
 
jblizzle said:
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! :wave:

Next step is to re-test the water and find out where you are at. So you should order one of the Recommended Test Kits ASAP.

I would not try to balance anything until you can have reliable, repeatable tests. IT just so happens that the CYA test is the one the pool stores are the worst at getting right ... so maybe you needed to replace 50% ... or maybe more ... or maybe less.
Thanks I just ordered the test kit thanks for the help
 
Re: CYA now at 52

I brought another sample to the pool store after my refill and it tested CYA at 52 so they suggested 2 gallons of shock and 1/2 gallon of algecide. What do you think? my test kit won't be here for a few days and I'm trying to get it fixed for Father's day. Bottom of pool is green.
 
Algaecide is not needed. You just need liquid chlorine ... how much depends on your current FC level.

Please add your pool details and location as described HERE to your signature as it will help us help you.
 
jblizzle said:
Algaecide is not needed. You just need liquid chlorine ... how much depends on your current FC level.

Please add your pool details and location as described HERE to your signature as it will help us help you.
I live in upstate NY test results (from pool store ) FC .2ppm TC .2ppm combined chlorine 0ppm Ph 6.3 hardness 60ppm CYA 52
 

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Since you don't have the test kit yet but you know you have green water, start with that and your pH.

According to the poolcalculator.com If your pH is that low, that would require about 399 oz of Borax (in the laundry aisle at Wal-Mart and other stores). Do you have a drop CL/pH tester with the test tube block? This would be more reliable than most pool stores.

Sounds to me like you need at least 8-10 gallons of bleach/liquid chlorine (garden center at the Wal-Mart or Home Depot). I think I would start with two gallons in the pool and scoop every bit of junk out of the pool you can. Keep adding until the pool looks better. Add when the tester block show lemon yellow or less color, 4ppm. It is possible for it to bring the chlorine level back to 4 ppm or less in a couple hours with a green pool. It's a good project to do while you are weeding the yard. Weed, drink water,check the levels, weed, drink some water, check the levels.
 
techguy said:
Since you don't have the test kit yet but you know you have green water, start with that and your pH.

According to the poolcalculator.com If your pH is that low, that would require about 399 oz of Borax (in the laundry aisle at Wal-Mart and other stores). Do you have a drop CL/pH tester with the test tube block? This would be more reliable than most pool stores.

Sounds to me like you need at least 8-10 gallons of bleach/liquid chlorine (garden center at the Wal-Mart or Home Depot). I think I would start with two gallons in the pool and scoop every bit of junk out of the pool you can. Keep adding until the pool looks better. Add when the tester block show lemon yellow or less color, 4ppm. It is possible for it to bring the chlorine level back to 4 ppm or less in a couple hours with a green pool. It's a good project to do while you are weeding the yard. Weed, drink water,check the levels, weed, drink some water, check the levels.
I do have a tube style test kit for Chlorine and PH so I'll do that in the morning and just regular bleach is ok? Should I have the pump running while I'm doing this? Pool is clean of debris except green on bottom. Thanks
 
jblizzle said:
You need to run the pump at least for an hour before you test and an hour after adding chemicals ... but during the shock process you should try to keep the pump on 24/7
I have been running the pump since putting in the shock I'll start adding bleach and let you know tommorow how I'm doing. Last question tonight will the green turn white when I add enough bleach and do I then vacum it out? Thanks again for your help.
 
If you can add the chlorine tonight, you would be better off. Adding the CL during the day allows the sun to drive off the CL. CL at night will be more effective in killing the algae. Even it it just what is in the laundry room.

Turn on the pump, Pour in the bleach, run the pump for an hour.

YES... it will go from dark green, the green/grey to grey, to white to blue/white with several set-back when you stir up the stuff on the bottom. Brushing often also helps get the stuff off the floors and walls.
 
It does not always turn white immediately. We do not recommend the nuclear option that pool stores suggest with huge doses of chlorine as that can cause damage. You can vacuum if you want or let the filter capture everything.
 
it depends on the type of algae, some turn white, some brown or gray, some even kind of stay green even when dead. The problem is now you are half blind doing the shock process as you have no test tell if you are maintaining shock level. You may add enough bleach to get to shock level then be back below shock level a couple of hours latter giving the algae a chance to regrow, this is why the suggest FAS-DPD test is so important to have.
 
Isaac-1 said:
it depends on the type of algae, some turn white, some brown or gray, some even kind of stay green even when dead. The problem is now you are half blind doing the shock process as you have no test tell if you are maintaining shock level. You may add enough bleach to get to shock level then be back below shock level a couple of hours latter giving the algae a chance to regrow, this is why the suggest FAS-DPD test is so important to have.
I ordered the TF-100 it will be here in a few days
 

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