Question about dichlor

[aaroncat]

Hi folks,

First post here, thanks for having me

I have been reading the Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools post and had a question about Step 5.

I set up my Intex 14' x 48" AG pool and filled it with tap water.

I currently only have the HTH 3 test kit (Walmart was out of the 6 test kit but will buy the moment it is in stock).

Day 1
Chlorine: 0
PH: 7.6ish
Added 8oz of HTH super shock n swim

I added HTH super shock n swim thinking that this shock was an adequate substitute for dichlor (mostly due to the term shock). I'm guessing that this was a mistake because when I looked up the differences it sounds like calcium hypochloride doesn't raise CYA but dichlor does.

Day 2
Chlorine: WAY OFF THE CHARTS (was bright orange and the test kit only goes to yellow)
PH: 7.8
Didn't add anything

Day 3
Chlorine: 0 (Wow, back to 0??? It was an overcast day)
PH: 7.6
Added 8oz of HTH super shock n swim

Question: Should I buy actual dichlor and start over? Or is there a path to success with calcium hypochloride?

Cheers,
Aaron

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

This is a perfect example of why we HATE the word "shock" around here ... means too many different things to too many different people

You are correct that is cal-hypo and will add calcium instead of stabilizer that the dichlor will add.

You should stop using the cal-hypo. And start the process over. The point of the dichlor is to build up the CYA to the recommended level to protect the FC from the sun ... then switch to liquid chlorine.

If you can swing it, I would recommend ordering either the K-2006 or the TF-100 instead of the HTH kit ... you will gain the FAS-DPD chlorine test which takes a lot of the guess work out.

 

[Richard320]

Thus far, probably no real damage since the pool was a fresh fill.

But until you get some CYA in there to protect it, you'll be going through chlorine at an alarming rate.

 

[Isaac-1]

Using dichlor for the first few days is a great way to get CYA to your desired level if you have no way to test your CYA level and if you carefully limit your usage then switch to bleach. The problem with all the dry chlorine products and a small pool is a little goes a LONG way. You also don't want to over dose on Dichlor, as this leads to dreaded high CYA levels and all sorts of likely algae issues, etc. With a 3,900 gallon pool you probably want to use a total of no more than 2 pounds of dichlor and leave you with a target chlorine level of 4 the high testing limit of your drop test is likely 5ppm chlorine.

As to finding Dichlor, check at lowes if you have one near you, just be careful they sell several different shock products in 1 pounds bags, some are cal hypo some are dichlor, names are very similar like "shock and Shock +)

Ike

p.s. I would try adding about 1/3 of a bag at a time, then circulate for a half hour test and dose as needed

 

[aaroncat]

Thanks guys, very helpful. I will start over with dichlor. I just ordered a 2lb bottle from Amazon because I couldn't find it in Lowes or Home Depot.

 

[Isaac-1]

You will want to keep some Chlorine in the pool with bleach until the dichlor gets there.

Ike

 

[aaroncat]

Ok, good to know, thanks

I have this chlorine from Walmart and I bought a little floating dispenser. Is that what I should be using?

 

[rdhetrick]

Nope, that's almost the same thing as dichlor. Those will add CYA. You could use those INSTEAD of dichlor if you want, but don't plan on using both.....

read here: pool-school/types_chlorine_pool

 

[jblizzle]

Not really ... those tablets are trichlor and will also add CYA and lower the pH ... making things even more confusing if you are trying to estimate your CYA level.

If you get a decent kit and will be testing for the CYA, then you can use the poolcalculator.com to determine how much CYA each of those pucks will add ... and then make sure you stop when the combination of pucks and dichlor (if you use it) gets the CYA into range. Then you MUST switch to liquid chlorine / bleach.

Have you read Pool School yet?

EDIT: Also, those tablets have zinc in them, we never recommend adding metal to the water. If you are going to use pucks, find some with the metal in them.

 

[Isaac-1]

The seasonal pool suggestions for operation without one of the suggested test kits, are rather critical.

You need to only EVER use the specified amount of stabilized chlorine or stabilizer, the reason here is the limited range your chlorine drop test will read up to (5 ppm), after your initial stabilizer level is reached through either the use of the specified amount dichlor or stabilizer, then you MUST switch to liquid chlorine / bleach for only chlorination source and not use ANY stabilized chlorine products. Otherwise you risk your FC to CYA ratio being too low, or your required FC being above the testing limits of your test kit.

Ike

 

[JohnN]

EDIT: Also, those tablets have zinc in them, we never recommend adding metal to the water. If you are going to use pucks, find some with the metal in them.

Iron turns water brown, copper turns water green, and manganese turns water purple. What does zinc do?

 

[jblizzle]

EDIT: Also, those tablets have zinc in them, we never recommend adding metal to the water. If you are going to use pucks, find some with the metal in them.

Iron turns water brown, copper turns water green, and manganese turns water purple. What does zinc do?

You called my bluff ... I have no idea :lol:

 

[aaroncat]

OK guys, this is really great of you all to chime in I realize I was on the wrong path The temporary pool article talks about bleach being the daily source of chlorine after the initial dichlor phase. Is this just ordinary household bleach or is there a recommended pool product? I understand how to use the pool calculator but when I add the specified amount of liquid bleach is it simply a pour around the pool job or is there a better way to administer it?

 

[JohnN]

Any bleach is fine, as long as it lists the percentage concentration of sodium hypochlorite. Best way to add it is to pour it slowly in front of a return.

 

[Richard320]

OK guys, this is really great of you all to chime in I realize I was on the wrong path The temporary pool article talks about bleach being the daily source of chlorine after the initial dichlor phase. Is this just ordinary household bleach or is there a recommended pool product? I understand how to use the pool calculator but when I add the specified amount of liquid bleach is it simply a pour around the pool job or is there a better way to administer it?

Plain bleach, no additives, in front of the returns.
pool-school/recommended_pool_chemicals

Back to Pool School

 

[Isaac-1]

Plain bleach (6% or 8.25% concentrated), non scented, don't get the easy pour type as it has thickeners, also avoid "outdoor bleach" as it has detergent additives.

 

[aaroncat]

So I grabbed some 8.25% plain Clorox bleach from Walmart and as per the Pool Calculator added 24oz this morning. This was to raise my 3900 gallon pool chlorine level from 0 to 4. I get home from work 10 hours later and it is measuring 0 still. Is this expected? Not much sun today.

 

[Isaac-1]

Something does not make sense here, it is only 2 days since you asked your initial question, that should not have been enough time for you to have used up your 2 pounds of dichlor intended for your initial chlorination method to get up to the desired CYA level. So have you already made it to the point of switching to bleach from dichlor?

 

[jblizzle]

Certainly possible if anything is in the water. But if you have no CYA, then the FC will lose 50% every hour if I remember correctly.

 

[aaroncat]

No. I am still waiting on the dichlor to ship (couldn't find it anywhere). I was taking your suggestion of using bleach while I'm waiting on the dichlor. Did I misunderstand?